how tight do you run your chains on your fixed?
#1
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 36
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From: San Francisco, CA
Bikes: Soma Rush
how tight do you run your chains on your fixed?
How tight are you people out there running your chains? I like the lack of give when doing track stands shifting my weight back and forth, but too tight gives that horrible grinding sound, what do you think?
#3
suprise?
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Land of the Misfit Toys
I usually run it pretty snug with about .5inch slack up/down movement with my finger. I don't like it being too loose because I can feel where the chain goes slack from a forward motion to backwards. You get that pedal...nothin...bam..chains' tight again feeling.
Too tight causes bearing wear.
Too tight causes bearing wear.
#7
I really like to find the spot between my rear cog and my front ring that is the tightest and then lock my axle down. Rotate it a couple of times and since my stupid rings aren't truly round (are anyones???) the chain is tight at one spot and loose at one spot and inbetween throughout.
Works good E 2 shoes.
Works good E 2 shoes.
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 556
Likes: 0
From: Blo-no, IL
Bikes: 2005 Specialized Hardrock Sport, 1970's Miyata Liberty ala fixed gear
I really like to find the spot between my rear cog and my front ring that is the tightest and then lock my axle down. Rotate it a couple of times and since my stupid rings aren't truly round (are anyones???) the chain is tight at one spot and loose at one spot and inbetween throughout.
Works good E 2 shoes.
Works good E 2 shoes.
#12
Yeah... I would doubt very much if anyone had perfectly round rings. I was stating that more or less to see if anyone had something that was stated to be manufactured "perfectly round".
This is why when you're tensioning your chain, you should tension it with the cranks in AT LEAST 4 positions. If I were actually track racing, I would probably try to set it up by doing the math so that the cog's non roundedness and the rings non roundedness would line up in most cases. But that would require a graphing calculator and some paper... oh yeah, and time.
Good thing Im not track racing.
This is why when you're tensioning your chain, you should tension it with the cranks in AT LEAST 4 positions. If I were actually track racing, I would probably try to set it up by doing the math so that the cog's non roundedness and the rings non roundedness would line up in most cases. But that would require a graphing calculator and some paper... oh yeah, and time.
Good thing Im not track racing.
#17
Yeah... I would doubt very much if anyone had perfectly round rings. I was stating that more or less to see if anyone had something that was stated to be manufactured "perfectly round".
This is why when you're tensioning your chain, you should tension it with the cranks in AT LEAST 4 positions. If I were actually track racing, I would probably try to set it up by doing the math so that the cog's non roundedness and the rings non roundedness would line up in most cases. But that would require a graphing calculator and some paper... oh yeah, and time.
Good thing Im not track racing.
This is why when you're tensioning your chain, you should tension it with the cranks in AT LEAST 4 positions. If I were actually track racing, I would probably try to set it up by doing the math so that the cog's non roundedness and the rings non roundedness would line up in most cases. But that would require a graphing calculator and some paper... oh yeah, and time.
Good thing Im not track racing.
#19
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 16,681
Likes: 3
From: Between the mountains and the lake.
Bikes: 8 bikes - one for each day of the week!
Yeah... I would doubt very much if anyone had perfectly round rings. I was stating that more or less to see if anyone had something that was stated to be manufactured "perfectly round".
This is why when you're tensioning your chain, you should tension it with the cranks in AT LEAST 4 positions. If I were actually track racing, I would probably try to set it up by doing the math so that the cog's non roundedness and the rings non roundedness would line up in most cases. But that would require a graphing calculator and some paper... oh yeah, and time.
Good thing Im not track racing.
This is why when you're tensioning your chain, you should tension it with the cranks in AT LEAST 4 positions. If I were actually track racing, I would probably try to set it up by doing the math so that the cog's non roundedness and the rings non roundedness would line up in most cases. But that would require a graphing calculator and some paper... oh yeah, and time.
Good thing Im not track racing.
#21
ALL PARTY
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 664
Likes: 0
From: Niagara Falls, Ontario, Canada
Bikes: Douglas Touring Cross Wise, Urbanite Fixed Gear
I can never get it tight enough. What is a good technique for pulling it back to a tight spot?
I like mine to be moderately tight, I hate track standing and having my cranks shake around the teeth.
I like mine to be moderately tight, I hate track standing and having my cranks shake around the teeth.
#22
partly metal, partly real
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,597
Likes: 0
From: Philadelphia.
Bikes: Hummer H2
question: if you ride with slack, doesn't the violent, abrupt change in direction of the chainring when skidding at higher speeds cause faster wear/stretching of the chain? i feel like a loose chain could accelerate damage to the chain by causing it to (violently) snap taught everytime you skip or skid.
seems to me that regardless of what ss or "track racers" do, riding fixed on the street essentially requires a no-play (or very minimal play) chain...
seems to me that regardless of what ss or "track racers" do, riding fixed on the street essentially requires a no-play (or very minimal play) chain...
Last edited by sp00ki; 05-03-08 at 10:20 AM.
#23
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 862
Likes: 0
From: Arizona
Bikes: Swift folder, single speed
I've never really experimented with this. I always keep about 1/2 inch or 1 inch slack in the chain, something like that. Maybe it would be better to run the chain tight. Not excessively tight, but just no slack tight. Don't know. What harm would that do?
Oh, duh, I don't even have a fixed (any more), I have a ss.
Oh, duh, I don't even have a fixed (any more), I have a ss.
#25
I run just enough slack so that the chain will not bind at any point and tight enough that I don't drop my chain... a looser chain does run out faster but is not as practical for urban riding as besides braking, big hits can cause the chain to jump off.
A lot of it comes down to personal preference.
A lot of it comes down to personal preference.







