Steamroller Chainline
#1
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Steamroller Chainline
I am new here and, while browsing around the forum, have notice discussion on the chainline on the steamroller complete build. I bought my bike late spring/early summer in 2007 but am not certain it is a 2007 model. I have also seen it mentioned that the 2008 models have resolved the issues.
My primary inquiry is whether the issue is model specific-- I may have bought a 2006 model in 2007-- and whether there is a good way to verify the year of the model?
I hope this issue isn't over discussed and would appreciate insight.
My primary inquiry is whether the issue is model specific-- I may have bought a 2006 model in 2007-- and whether there is a good way to verify the year of the model?
I hope this issue isn't over discussed and would appreciate insight.
#2
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From: Columbus, Ohio
Bikes: Serotta Colorado III Track (Renyolds Ouzo Pro Aero Fork, Dura-Ace to Mavic CXP-14 wheels, Sugino crank, Thomson and 3T the rest), Steelman Cyclocross (Campy Record 10, Deda Newton & Thomson stuff)
The crank is what is in question. Does your bike have this crank?

If so your chainline is probably 1mm off becuase RDs can only really get a 43mm chainline, while your hub is ~42mm.
The argument was mostly over why Surly would release a complete bike with this issue, but lots of people run these cranks without any issues on all kinds of bikes.

If so your chainline is probably 1mm off becuase RDs can only really get a 43mm chainline, while your hub is ~42mm.
The argument was mostly over why Surly would release a complete bike with this issue, but lots of people run these cranks without any issues on all kinds of bikes.
#3
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If so your chainline is probably 1mm off becuase RDs can only really get a 43mm chainline, while your hub is ~42mm.
The argument was mostly over why Surly would release a complete bike with this issue, but lots of people run these cranks without any issues on all kinds of bikes.
The argument was mostly over why Surly would release a complete bike with this issue, but lots of people run these cranks without any issues on all kinds of bikes.
#6
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The noise from a chainline discrepancy is not my concern as much as the safety/mechanics of it.
#8
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After the mishap I decided to get one of the surly tensioner, which get mixed reviews on here, and it seems to keep it tight. I could have saved the cash and just been more vigilant but sometimes I get lax in maintaining my bike.
Thanks for the response. I'm gonna conclude that it isn't an (major) issue and not obsess over it until I have the income to upgrade to the 75's I dream of.
Thanks for the response. I'm gonna conclude that it isn't an (major) issue and not obsess over it until I have the income to upgrade to the 75's I dream of.
#10
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I find they are a great investment. The ones pictured have a better look then the surly's and no matter what you use I believe you'll like it. I only run one and you probably wouldn't need two unless you think it gives a cleaner look (or you are a beast).
#11
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Here's the skinny:
All steamroller completes (i.e., the stock Surly steamroller built by Surly and regularly bought at your LBS) come w/ Sugino RD cranks. The chainring on these cranks (normally) sit 45mm away from the middle of the seat bar on your frame, thus giving a 45mm chainline. The Surly cogs which come stock on the complete Steamrollers are speced to work with a chairing that gives a 42.5-43.5 mm chainline.
BUT this is nothing to worry about because the Steamroller also comes with a 3/32 8-speed chain, a chain that can easily handle this deviation in chainline with no danger in the chain coming off, little to no extra wear on the cog and chainring, and little to no noise elevation (bc 3/32 chains just run quieter than the 1/8 chain on your standard track bike; and most of the noise comes from either having the chain too tight or just having noisy cogs, and Surly cogs can be noisy).
All steamroller completes (i.e., the stock Surly steamroller built by Surly and regularly bought at your LBS) come w/ Sugino RD cranks. The chainring on these cranks (normally) sit 45mm away from the middle of the seat bar on your frame, thus giving a 45mm chainline. The Surly cogs which come stock on the complete Steamrollers are speced to work with a chairing that gives a 42.5-43.5 mm chainline.
BUT this is nothing to worry about because the Steamroller also comes with a 3/32 8-speed chain, a chain that can easily handle this deviation in chainline with no danger in the chain coming off, little to no extra wear on the cog and chainring, and little to no noise elevation (bc 3/32 chains just run quieter than the 1/8 chain on your standard track bike; and most of the noise comes from either having the chain too tight or just having noisy cogs, and Surly cogs can be noisy).
#12
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Chain tensioners are not necessary unless you are heavy or unless you have an extraordinarily strong pedal stroke.
#13
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Joined: May 2008
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From: beyond Thunderdome
Bikes: 82 Bianchi ECO Pista, Pake, Kilo TT, some *** bmx i found underneath an old house
Here's the skinny:
All steamroller completes (i.e., the stock Surly steamroller built by Surly and regularly bought at your LBS) come w/ Sugino RD cranks. The chainring on these cranks (normally) sit 45mm away from the middle of the seat bar on your frame, thus giving a 45mm chainline. The Surly cogs which come stock on the complete Steamrollers are speced to work with a chairing that gives a 42.5-43.5 mm chainline.
BUT this is nothing to worry about because the Steamroller also comes with a 3/32 8-speed chain, a chain that can easily handle this deviation in chainline with no danger in the chain coming off, little to no extra wear on the cog and chainring, and little to no noise elevation (bc 3/32 chains just run quieter than the 1/8 chain on your standard track bike; and most of the noise comes from either having the chain too tight or just having noisy cogs, and Surly cogs can be noisy).
All steamroller completes (i.e., the stock Surly steamroller built by Surly and regularly bought at your LBS) come w/ Sugino RD cranks. The chainring on these cranks (normally) sit 45mm away from the middle of the seat bar on your frame, thus giving a 45mm chainline. The Surly cogs which come stock on the complete Steamrollers are speced to work with a chairing that gives a 42.5-43.5 mm chainline.
BUT this is nothing to worry about because the Steamroller also comes with a 3/32 8-speed chain, a chain that can easily handle this deviation in chainline with no danger in the chain coming off, little to no extra wear on the cog and chainring, and little to no noise elevation (bc 3/32 chains just run quieter than the 1/8 chain on your standard track bike; and most of the noise comes from either having the chain too tight or just having noisy cogs, and Surly cogs can be noisy).
#14
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straight chain
Why can't the wheel bearing races be moved the 1mm or so in the right direction and the spokes adjusted slightly? I set up my own single speed, actually a two speed but yea.....its not fixed. I suppose that's one good reason for a freewheel. I assume the Surly bike has loose bearings and adjustable races of course.
#15
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seems skidding and climbing hills pulls the wheel forward in the track ends...wouldn't hurt to get a tensioner
meh
#16
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Also, in reference to your other reply, you talked about the 3/32 chain but I hand switched up my rear wheel for a new one and used the rear wheel's flop flop side, and all of the drivetrain (i.e. cranks, chainring, chain), when making a SS for a friend. The wheel was used but in good condition and also has a surly hub. I bought another set of RD2s thinking it is best to keep all variables equal but I got a new 1/8 chain ring and chain because the cog on the wheel I bought was 1/8.
So I am running essentially the same specs as stock but with a 1/8 chain and am concerned about the lach of flex in the 1/8 chain.
#17
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My pedal stroke likely isn't out of the ordinary but I am very heavy for a cyclist and would often find the chain got loose.
Also, in reference to your other reply, you talked about the 3/32 chain but I hand switched up my rear wheel for a new one and used the rear wheel's flop flop side, and all of the drivetrain (i.e. cranks, chainring, chain), when making a SS for a friend. The wheel was used but in good condition and also has a surly hub. I bought another set of RD2s thinking it is best to keep all variables equal but I got a new 1/8 chain ring and chain because the cog on the wheel I bought was 1/8.
So I am running essentially the same specs as stock but with a 1/8 chain and am concerned about the lach of flex in the 1/8 chain.
Also, in reference to your other reply, you talked about the 3/32 chain but I hand switched up my rear wheel for a new one and used the rear wheel's flop flop side, and all of the drivetrain (i.e. cranks, chainring, chain), when making a SS for a friend. The wheel was used but in good condition and also has a surly hub. I bought another set of RD2s thinking it is best to keep all variables equal but I got a new 1/8 chain ring and chain because the cog on the wheel I bought was 1/8.
So I am running essentially the same specs as stock but with a 1/8 chain and am concerned about the lach of flex in the 1/8 chain.





