I'm not a big fan of phils because of the exposed bearing seals. IME cartridge bearing seals along won't keep water out forever. Not great considering many cheaper hubs work just as well and give the bearings more protection.

There are reasons you practically never come across phils outside the fixed crowd and the odd tourer.

Miche hubs have the end-cap seals you're describing, and they do absolutely nothing. I'd rather have access to clean the bearing seals than have grit build up between that seal and a cap.

The reason you rarely see Phil hubs might have to do with a lot: distribution channels, price, weight, to name a few. Although I tend to believe the reason they're not widely used is because nearly everyone riding road bikes today is on a racing-style bike instead of the more appropriate sport-touring style. Simply look at how large manufacturers have catered to silly demand for pseudo-racing junk: cheap paired-spoke wheels, lower and lower spoke counts, CF-everything, removing USEFUL eyelets from frames, etc...

I hate all over priced phil fugly hubs.

Next time you come across a set of Phils look closely at the bearings. You'll notice a layer of grease that has come out past the seals, creating a nice watertight barrier.

is it possible to use a pitlock with a front phil hub?

Your lack of knowledge on the situation is impressive. I've been ridding a set of Phils on my fixed CrossCheck, on road and off, as a daily commuter and a long distance rider. It's been subjected to dry arid conditions and muddy single stracks. Its been rained on and hosed off countless times. I've never had to service the bearings yet they spin just as smoothly today as they did in 04.

Depends. If you go with the Track hub, it's the bolt on arrangement. But nothing prevents you from using the Road or Kiss hub.

I do with a road hub, which is the same shell as the low flange track hub.

same with my formulas with phil spec bearings.

Maybe so, but the bearings aren't the same. The bearings for PW hubs are made to a better water proofing standard than the aftermarket ones they sell for other brands of hubs. That being said, I've had problems with neither my PW hubs or my Formula hubs with PW bearings.

Wait, are you saying that the bearings PW sells are not the same as the bearings that are found in the hubs PW sells? How would that make a lick of sense?

I'm saying that the bearings in PW brand hubs are different from the aftermarket bearings that they sell for other brands of hubs.

fair enough.

I still think phils are kind of overhyped as as being bombproof. How often have do people break hub flanges? I've seen two, both as a result of overtensioned spokes+ a crash. Back when they introduced sealed bearing stuff they probably were better than the competition, but the competition has come a long way.

That said, I have an old phil 6 speed hub, the kind with aluminum flanges that are threaded and bonded onto a steel body, and it still rolls pretty well. I'd like to build a phil wheelset when I have some $$$ and a decent frame to put them on, but thats because they are pretty.

look at the bearing spec sheet(http://www.philwood.com/products/Bearings.pdf) on their website. The replacement bearings for phils are a different size than the ones for formulas and whatnot. They also designate that they have better seals for certain bearings, which include the replacement bearings for phil hubs.

In terms of durability, there really must be a reason they are the go-to hub of rich loaded tourists. It's not so much about the flange as the bearings and axle. Phil specs a larger diameter axle, which is less likely to bend.

Campy Sheriff's are the way to go.

laced radial those are bombproof.

They're pretty popular with tandem riders. In fact my dad has a tandem with them on and they've been running fine on their original bearings since...I don't know, 1970 or so?