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phil stuff
How much are the single-fixed high-flang track hubs from phil wood?
Racer's Edge closed 45 minutes ago and I want to know NOW. I'm gonna build a wheelset for myself for christmas. with the radial lace up front like we talked about, and h + trend berlin walls. & Phil retinas. |
bout 150ish
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Too much to be worth it. (I regret my purchase of Phil's)
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if you're going to by phils get them from spicer cycles. You can get double fixed hubs for around $20 more
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Originally Posted by octopus magic
(Post 7839856)
Too much to be worth it. (I regret my purchase of Phil's)
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Originally Posted by operator
(Post 7839897)
You're joking right. Those hubs will outlast you and your family.
A set of Formulas are a hell of a lot less expensive and you can just jam some nicer bearings in there. Don't get me wrong they're nice, but there's better things you can be doing with phil wood hub money to make you go faster. And you can buy a LOOOOOT of bearings before you hit the point where you come even with Phil Wood stuff. |
Originally Posted by octopus magic
(Post 7839944)
Yeah, and so what?? I know loose ball bearing hubs on bikes that are older than you and are also still cranking it out.
A set of Formulas are a hell of a lot less expensive and you can just jam some nicer bearings in there. Don't get me wrong they're nice, but there's better things you can be doing with phil wood hub money to make you go faster. And you can buy a LOOOOOT of bearings before you hit the point where you come even with Phil Wood stuff. |
Whats so comedy about that?
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Yeah, he's got a point. If we're looking at it from a purely dollar : go-juice perspective, there are better places to spend your money.
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Ive got one right now I'm selling for 100.00. 32 hole high flange.
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I'm more into function over form, but why settle for one when you can have both?
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/Tassnor/Hub1.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/Tassnor/Hub2.jpg |
^^OMG. Illness.
Id go with the low flange Phil track hubs. I just recently built a new front for my bike with a LF black hub radial with black spokes and black nipples to a black Deep V. Very stiff, depending on your frame, its almost too stiff on my bike now. Id def go 3x for a street ride. |
Originally Posted by Jabba Degrassi
(Post 7840152)
Yeah, he's got a point. If we're looking at it from a purely dollar : go-juice perspective, there are better places to spend your money.
Like a respected forum member once said, quality is remembered long after price is forgotten. |
Originally Posted by Jabba Degrassi
(Post 7840152)
Yeah, he's got a point. If we're looking at it from a purely dollar : go-juice perspective, there are better places to spend your money.
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Originally Posted by operator
(Post 7840462)
No, he doesn't actually.
Like a respected forum member once said, quality is remembered long after price is forgotten. I'm sure the idea of a hand-made ***** is very appealing to some people, but some people don't have money to burn and just want to get off, and they don't want to make a big fuss about it. Is that okay with you? edit: Also I had no idea I was making a Waterworld reference, and, for the record, I'm contemplating Phil hubs for my next wheelset. |
Originally Posted by Jabba Degrassi
(Post 7840843)
That's interesting but we're talking about the cost of components relative to their benefit to one's speed, not some nebulous concept of quality worksmanship.
I'm sure the idea of a hand-made ***** is very appealing to some people, but some people don't have money to burn and just want to get off, and they don't want to make a big fuss about it. Is that okay with you? edit: Also I had no idea I was making a Waterworld reference, and, for the record, I'm contemplating Phil hubs for my next wheelset. There are many boutique hub manufacutures that offer lightness at the expense of duraibility and serviceability. I'm interested in neither of these as I don't race and don't care. |
Originally Posted by operator
(Post 7840935)
If you want speed then phil woods are not the answer. They are neither light nor fast. What you are paying for is durability.
There are many boutique hub manufacutures that offer lightness at the expense of duraibility and serviceability. I'm interested in neither of these as I don't race and don't care. |
Originally Posted by octopus magic
(Post 7839944)
yeah, and so what?? I know loose ball bearing hubs on bikes that are older than you and are also still cranking it out.
A set of formulas are a hell of a lot less expensive and you can just jam some nicer bearings in there. Don't get me wrong they're nice, but there's better things you can be doing with phil wood hub money to make you go faster. And you can buy a looooot of bearings before you hit the point where you come even with phil wood stuff. |
get pauls, theyre cheaper by a bit and ive ridden both guys' hubs and pauls are nicer, i think. also, i would not lace them radially at all, its a bad idea for anything other than racing- roads will cause your wheels to go out of true in no time. i had a cheap as hell wheel i built up when i first built my fixie and the streets threw the 14 spoke radial wheel out of true a lot. why the h son rims? such a waste
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msrp is only $2 difference between the hubs in a rear 120mm 32H silver hub.
pauls has 44mm chainline, it that matters to some people. |
tree fort bikes has the best price online for phils.
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I like my Surly hubs. It keeps people from taking wire cutters to my wheels just to remove an over-priced hub IMO.
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Has anyone ever broken a formula/nova tech track hub?
I love phil wood hubs for how well they are made. but i don't think formula track hubs are any less durable. |
^^ They are significantly less durable. I have a formula laced wheel which has exposed bearings and busted threading on one side. They're cheap-ass hubs. They don't even provide you with enough threading for different types of lockrings.
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Originally Posted by kergin
(Post 7843537)
^^ They are significantly less durable. I have a formula laced wheel which has exposed bearings and busted threading on one side. They're cheap-ass hubs. They don't even provide you with enough threading for different types of lockrings.
As for the bearing being exposed, that has more to do with the bearings manufacturer. And I don't think you can take points off the hub for not having enough threading for a non formula lock ring. That doesn't make any sense. I think most of the time, a stripped thread has more to do with improper care or use of the hub than it does a bad quality hub shell. |
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