This question continues to confuse me. I was reading a Q&A response by Sheldon Brown here:

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Bicycle-R...d-fork-use.htm

The user asks:
Sheldon replies:
What I don't understand is "You might want to use a quill type stem, even if you use a threadless headset" because I thought the dilemma here was just that, wanting to use a quill stem and being unable to do so because the OP had a threadless headset.

Sounds like you have it all figured out, but just have to find the proper fork.

Soma makes a 1" threaded fork but as far as I can tell it only comes in a 41mm rake. The 38mm forks for the Rush are threadless.

There are probably plenty of used threaded forks out there, but it might be tough finding one with a 38mm and the proper steer tube height.

If he is really dead set on the old school look, why not just find a nice older frame/fork combo already set up for a quill stem?

This kind of reminds of the many dates I've had in NYC where I told the girl we were going to spend the afternoon walking around the city, and then she shoes up in high heels and can't make it more than a few blocks. Purposefully making yourself suffer in the name of style.

i don't understand why that reply was made on sheldon. you can't use a threadless headset with a quill stem. the threadless headset needs a threadless stem to hold the headset together. i SUPPOSE you could use a threadless headset if the fork is so long that the threads don't reach down to where the headset sits, then use spacers and a locknut on top?

That would be wicked silly, the locknut won't have anything to grip into and it will loosen over time and the whole headset will start to come apart and that will be bad. I've seen a bike on Sheldon's site where he used a seatpost clamp to hold the headset together, then he could just raise or lower the stem as much as he wanted without dealing with spacers or taking the headset apart. I guess you could do that but use a quill stem instead, if you could find a seatpost clamp that would fit on the 1" steerer tube, but again... why?

OP, why do you love this friend so much that you will help them do something stupid?

Sounds good let me know how it all worked out. I have an 08' SE Lager and want to run a quill on that as well. I think the look of a threadless stem on a fixed is horrendous. Quills are definitely the way go.

I love quills, thats why I keep inquiring and Googling.

Quills rule! I believe you get more control out of your bike with a quill. The whole threadless thing just seems strange whoever thought of it. Why change something when it worked in the beginning.

more control?
what exactly does that mean?

I just think aesthetically they are more elegant (an opinion).

of course.

but threadless is superior in regards to mechanics and convenience.

I didn't mean to suggest anything other than that I found them aesthetically pleasing.

[QUOTE= as for "functionally elegant" wtf does that mean? at best, it's an opinion. i think many on here would agree that a nice quill stem is way more "elegant" than a threadless, and just as "functional"[/QUOTE]

I couldn't have said it any better. I have a threaded fork and quill stem. I tried a 1" threadless carbon fork for a while with stem and it looked very turd like in comparison. I am glad I went back.

It is common knowledge that threadless stems do not allow for turning of the bike, therefore less control.

I think I read about 8 times on this board of how people lost control of there bike due to their threadless stem coming lose.

An elegant quill stem would look funky on a fat 1 & 1/8 inch head tube. I would go threadless on this build.

That could only happen if the stem isn't installed correctly. In fact, theadless stems provide a more solid, firmer grip against the steerer tube than quill stems do.

Not sure what your buddy is willing to spend to get there, but he can have a custom fork made here: http://www.jonnycycles.com/productsForks.php

Only if you are an utter moron and completely over-torque every single bolt.

"OP, why do you love this friend so much that you will help them do something stupid?"

well i am not helping him do it yet. just figuring out the options and it seems from reading the replies that several people were curious as to the same thing. As far as aesthetics, i fall on the quill end of things but i ride old bikes that came stock with quills so this has never been an issue.

Thanks for the help and if anyone finds a threaded 38mm rake fork let me know. oh and wait how long should the steerer be? how would i find that out other than trial and error?

"functionally elegant" means that the assembly performs the function in an elegant way. It's a concept common in engineering and scientific fields and refers to solutions that perform a function in a simple, effective manner. In this case, threadless assemblies perform their function with fewer parts, less weight, less specialized tools, in a more user friendly fashion, with more stiffness, more adjustibility, more compatibility with available components, etc. This is rarely a matter of opinion as it is based on quantifiable criteria such as weight, simplicity etc.

"aesthetically elegant", which you refer to, is based on looks (visual aesthetics). That is a matter of taste (opinion), and many people will choose the aesthetically elegant option over the functionally elegant one.



Moving on, if the OP wants to sort out a threaded front end for the bike the simple solution is to find a threaded fork, stem and headset. Other solutions exist, but they're rarely functionally or aesthetically elegant or financially prudent. :)

Stop posting and search the archives.

while i agree that threadless assemblies use less specialized tools and are more user-friendly in their adjustment (of the headset, not the stem), you make it sound as if threadless is some sort of god-send and threaded assemblies are only for hobos and idiots. i am in no way arguing the superiority of threaded, but a proper threaded assembly is not WORSE, it is DIFFERENT.

a threadless headset does not have fewer parts, it has more
threaded:
-crown race
-bearings
-bottom race
-top race
-bearings
-adjustable cup
-lock washer
-locknut
-quill stem

threadless:
-crown race
-bearings
-bottom race
-top race
-bearings
-top cup
-beveled lock washer
-washer
-stem
-star nut
-top cap
-adjusting bolt

not to mention most threadless headsets come with 2 rubber seals as well.

as for threadless headsets being "more adjustable," most quill stems allow you to adjust the height of your bars 2" (or more) with nothing but an allen wrench and 30 seconds and without disrupting your well adjusted headset. if someone wants to raise or lower their bars on a threadless headset, they need to swap out some spacers at least, and then have to reset their headset all over again.

if you want to argue that they are superior, fine, but at least argue that they are superior in accurate ways. just sayin...

...or flip the threadless stem over for a positive rise.

If you're going to address the top cap, adjusting bolt, and star nut as separate pieces, then you need to do the same with the bolt and wedge on the quill stem.