Smaller Frames without Toe Overlap
#2
The only realistic way to minimize toe overlap on small frames is to design the frame around smaller wheels.
Don't let toe overlap prevent you from getting the frame you want. It's no big deal and becomes a non-issue after a few rides.
All my 700c wheeled bikes have some degree of toe overlap. Bikes with no overlap are my 2 26" wheeled bikes, 1 mountain, 1 tourer.
Don't let toe overlap prevent you from getting the frame you want. It's no big deal and becomes a non-issue after a few rides.
All my 700c wheeled bikes have some degree of toe overlap. Bikes with no overlap are my 2 26" wheeled bikes, 1 mountain, 1 tourer.
#4
Gone Tarcking. Back Later
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 502
Likes: 0
From: Blacksburg, VA
Bikes: Iron Horse Warrior Team (tricked to high heaven), Jamis Coda Sport (frame and fork, built into CX commuter), Gary Fisher Opie Dirt Jumper,SE Lager tarck bike
I don't know if the SE Lagers in that size don't have toe overlap, but I know my 56cm doesn't
#6
#7
Here are two sweet track frames that are 51cm i'm pretty sure that small of a frame is hard to come by
https://cgi.ebay.com/RARE-60S-DIAMANT...|39:1|240:1318
https://cgi.ebay.com/RARE-60S-DIAMANT...|39:1|240:1318
Wont come cheap though by the looks
https://cgi.ebay.com/RARE-60S-DIAMANT...|39:1|240:1318
https://cgi.ebay.com/RARE-60S-DIAMANT...|39:1|240:1318
Wont come cheap though by the looks
#8
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Sonoma, CA
Bikes: Mercier Kilo TT
If you use crank arms's length: 140, 145, 150, 155, it won't has toe overlap
#9
#11
do you ride under like 5 mph all the time? that's the only time i experience toe overlap. I would recommend some carbon soled bike shoes and moving the cleat as far forward as you can but something tells me it would get in the way of teh tricks
#13
Rumblefish

Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 687
Likes: 0
From: Austin Texas
Bikes: 1973 Crescent Pepita Single Speed,1978 Raleigh Competition G.S.,1976 Raleigh Super Course MKII,1970's Motobecane Super Touring Fixed Gear, 1980's Denti Road Tech Five,Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo,1973 Atala Giro,Cheap MTB Tandem,Schwinn World Sport
Clipless, shorter cranks and smaller tires all help a little. Whether or not all the littles make up the difference is a bit of a crapshoot. A rakier fork may take care of it as well.
#16
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Philadelphia/New York
Bikes: Primary: little orange 70s LeJeune track bike, AKA Tomato Frog, and (secondary) a noisy old Botecchia mixte frame ten-speed of similar vintage.
You just get used to overlap. I have a tiny little track frame and 700cs and just learned to lean more when doing tight turns at low speeds. I can't imagine a small frame with standard wheels and no overlap, unless the wheelbase is incredibly long or something.
#18
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
I actually get no toe overlap on the 51cm road frame I'm riding as fixed. I believe it's because the fork I'm running with it is 50mm though. I've seen a few fixable frames with 45mm rake forks, like the ones from felt, and the on one il pompino. If you get something with a more fork rake (road geo, not track geo), more top tube (and smaller stem), and shorter cranks, you could dodge toe overlap.
#19
I got used to my toe overlap except when trackstanding. I always turn my wheel and hit my pedal when I'm trying to trackstand. It bugs the **** out of me. Guess I just have to get better at it.
#20
.


Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 12,769
Likes: 38
From: Rocket City, No'ala
Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 5.2, 1985 Pinarello Treviso, 1990 Gardin Shred, 2006 Bianchi San Jose
#21
Banned
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 207
Likes: 1

If cow really wanted to avoid the toe overlap.. just use spd which is best pedals and no overlap...
Last edited by GMERGOD; 03-01-09 at 08:22 PM.
#22
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 445
Likes: 0
From: Columbus, Ohio
Bikes: Serotta Colorado III Track (Renyolds Ouzo Pro Aero Fork, Dura-Ace to Mavic CXP-14 wheels, Sugino crank, Thomson and 3T the rest), Steelman Cyclocross (Campy Record 10, Deda Newton & Thomson stuff)
I ride frames that size, and every frame I've ridden gets decent amounts of overlap. It's a fact of life on smaller frames. IRO doesn't go down to 650s until their 46cm Heidi frame. As others have said, clipless helps, smaller tires too. Riding cranks smaller than 165 is dumb unless you're like 5 feet tall or less.
I really don't find it to be an issue at all, I only run into it when I'm moving my wheel around trying to trackstand on flat with my geared bike. No need to shift around so much on fixed with all that helpful back pressure, you turn the wheel away from your foot anyway.
I really don't find it to be an issue at all, I only run into it when I'm moving my wheel around trying to trackstand on flat with my geared bike. No need to shift around so much on fixed with all that helpful back pressure, you turn the wheel away from your foot anyway.
#23
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 445
Likes: 0
From: Columbus, Ohio
Bikes: Serotta Colorado III Track (Renyolds Ouzo Pro Aero Fork, Dura-Ace to Mavic CXP-14 wheels, Sugino crank, Thomson and 3T the rest), Steelman Cyclocross (Campy Record 10, Deda Newton & Thomson stuff)
Oh man, nevermind, the BMX/Fixed thread reminded me of this frame:

https://www.thebikebiz.com/Sillgey_Pi...-trk-sil01.htm
Just get that. I want one but I have no idea why...

https://www.thebikebiz.com/Sillgey_Pi...-trk-sil01.htm
Just get that. I want one but I have no idea why...




