Numb wrists
#9
partly metal, partly real
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,597
Likes: 0
From: Philadelphia.
Bikes: Hummer H2
the problem with cut risers is they're really stiff vs drops or bullhorns. if you need risers, get carbon ones. otherwise, man up or switch.
(a carbon fork helps too; so does a titanium or longer steel stem)
(a carbon fork helps too; so does a titanium or longer steel stem)
Last edited by sp00ki; 03-21-09 at 02:33 PM.
#10
It's probably more of a fit problem than actual component issue. You specifically said, after "a few" miles. You shouldn't be getting wrist numbness within that time. With risers, we're talking one hand position, so you're likely get fatigued, but not go numb.
Check this out: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/pain.html#posture
You probably have your wrist at a too extreme angle, pinching a nerve or something.
Check this out: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/pain.html#posture
You probably have your wrist at a too extreme angle, pinching a nerve or something.
#11
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
its your ourys dude...
i had the same problems... when your riding for long periods of time the extra cush in the ourys settle in on your nerves in and around the palms. they are great for the padding, but it works like a double edged sword. theyre designed for mountain riding. the second i switched to bmx grips, the problem went away. hand positions are nice, but if you like the aggressive feel and practicality of risers then switch out those mf'n ourys!
#13
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
From: Brooklyn Zoo via 61ooo
gloves and grips should correct this. there's a nerve at the base of your pinky finger on your palm that tends to get pinched while riding. if too much pressure is placed on it for too long, you're going to get numbness in the wrists and sometimes up the arms. drop some cash on a good pair of gloves with a pad in that area (as well as the base of your thumb on your palm) and your numbness should subside.
#15
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
When you're riding definitely try to think in your mind to to balance your weight and not put too much pressure on your wrists. Do this by bending your elbows and using muscles in your back etc etc.
If you can't then mess around with stem and seat height.
If you can't then mess around with stem and seat height.
#16
Adjust the fit, so that more of the weight is on your seat/legs vs. your hands.
There are a variety of factors in play here, so some of the options are:
1. Get a properly sized frame and then build that one up appropriately. This is the most expensive, but best option.
2. Adjust the seat angle. If it's angled too far forward, you'll be putting your weight on your wrists, so angling it back and making it flatter might help. (This is free, but the downside is that if your bars are too low, and you're not very flexible, a less angled seat may mean you're putting too much weight on the horn of your saddle which gets very uncomfortable very fast.)
3. Adjust the handlebar height. a) Get a set of handlebars with a higher rise. b) If you've got a threaded fork, raise the stem / replace the stem. If you've got a threadless fork, get a steering tube extender and mount your handlebars on that, and maybe get a shorter stem as well.
4. As the previous poster said, vary your position in and out on your Oury's. Sometimes an inch or two of range helps make things more comfortable.
You can also play with seat height/fore-aft position, but those are the major items to getting your bike fitting properly.
Good luck!
There are a variety of factors in play here, so some of the options are:
1. Get a properly sized frame and then build that one up appropriately. This is the most expensive, but best option.
2. Adjust the seat angle. If it's angled too far forward, you'll be putting your weight on your wrists, so angling it back and making it flatter might help. (This is free, but the downside is that if your bars are too low, and you're not very flexible, a less angled seat may mean you're putting too much weight on the horn of your saddle which gets very uncomfortable very fast.)
3. Adjust the handlebar height. a) Get a set of handlebars with a higher rise. b) If you've got a threaded fork, raise the stem / replace the stem. If you've got a threadless fork, get a steering tube extender and mount your handlebars on that, and maybe get a shorter stem as well.
4. As the previous poster said, vary your position in and out on your Oury's. Sometimes an inch or two of range helps make things more comfortable.
You can also play with seat height/fore-aft position, but those are the major items to getting your bike fitting properly.
Good luck!
#17
King of the Hipsters
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,128
Likes: 2
From: Bend, Oregon
Bikes: Realm Cycles Custom
Originally Posted by Geordi LaForge
padding is just a band-aid.
solve the problem first, then add comfort.
and the problem sounds like a fit and posture issue.
solve the problem first, then add comfort.
and the problem sounds like a fit and posture issue.
It sounds like a neck issue to me, and this relates not so much to the relative height of the saddle and bars as much as it relates to the horizontal distance from the saddle to the bars, and the fore and aft location of the saddle in relation to the pedals.
Now, if he said his hands HURT, I would say take weight of the handlebars and put more weight on the saddle.
But he didn't say that: he said his hands get NUMB, which almost always suggests a neck/posture issue.
#18
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 216
Likes: 0
It's the Ulnar nerve (most likely), and since it has to go over the first thoracic vertebra, craning your neck tightens the muscles around it, thus causing numbness.
It could also be from riding on rough road or gripping the handlebars too tight (or any combination of the 3), as those can cause trauma and stress to the nerve as well.
It could also be from riding on rough road or gripping the handlebars too tight (or any combination of the 3), as those can cause trauma and stress to the nerve as well.
#19
HAMMER DOWN
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
From: Dirty Jerzee
Bikes: Sold '08 Jamis Coda Comp, building a Leader 720TR. I know, let the hating begin!
Some people feel "wonky" when trying to go to drops. A good alternative is bullhorns. They let you move around a lot, like drops do. I read, and agree with, the idea that you should move your hand position every 10 mins or so. Don't lock the elbows out either! I hope this helps.
#20
Some people feel "wonky" when trying to go to drops. A good alternative is bullhorns. They let you move around a lot, like drops do. I read, and agree with, the idea that you should move your hand position every 10 mins or so. Don't lock the elbows out either! I hope this helps.
I agree. When I got my IRO with drops it was hard for me to climb hills with the hand positions that they offer, I definitley felt "wonky" on then. I had drops on my road bike and for some reason it worked on that but not on my fixed gear. I switched to bullhorns the other day and its so much more comfortable than the drops. I highly recommend the bullhorns.
#21
HAMMER DOWN
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
From: Dirty Jerzee
Bikes: Sold '08 Jamis Coda Comp, building a Leader 720TR. I know, let the hating begin!
I also wanted to add that there ar a few different types of bullhorns. Sometimes you'll see them listed as Aero basebars, or pursuit bars, etc. The real difference between them is how the tubing is shaped, some more aerodynamic, or flat, than others, and whether or not there is any drop to them. Some have a drop just after it leaves the stem clamping area, and others just come out flat. You just have to play around with them and find the style that works best for you!
#22
onitsuka tiger
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 201
Likes: 0
From: southern california
Bikes: 60's mercian track
1. bend your elbows.
2. arch your back like a pissed cat
3. make sure you leave the extreme saddle/stem drop on the track.
*if you feel yourself completely supporting your upper body with your hands, you're too steep for a daily ride. there should be some sort of balance between the weight carried on the seat/legs/arms. too much on any one part and you give up something else. its why track drops are so low compared to road drops. on the track, the discomfort yeilds a more aero positioning, on the road, this wouldn't be a good trade off.
2. arch your back like a pissed cat
3. make sure you leave the extreme saddle/stem drop on the track.
*if you feel yourself completely supporting your upper body with your hands, you're too steep for a daily ride. there should be some sort of balance between the weight carried on the seat/legs/arms. too much on any one part and you give up something else. its why track drops are so low compared to road drops. on the track, the discomfort yeilds a more aero positioning, on the road, this wouldn't be a good trade off.
#23
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,264
Likes: 15
Try some Ergon Grips. They are super comfortable and distribute your weight much better over your hands.
https://www.ergon-bike.com/us/grips/i...2sch8sa21ou143
https://www.ergon-bike.com/us/grips/i...2sch8sa21ou143
#24
Try some Ergon Grips. They are super comfortable and distribute your weight much better over your hands.
https://www.ergon-bike.com/us/grips/i...2sch8sa21ou143
https://www.ergon-bike.com/us/grips/i...2sch8sa21ou143
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