So I just received my CT2 Easton Monkey Lite handlebars in the mail today from an ebay seller. I am planning on cutting them pretty short (~1.5in off either side) and I think they are already cut a little bit. Is there anything I should worry about structural wise; like are they going to be less absorbent or easier to crack if I crash with shorter bars? Also are there any other precautions I should take besides wrapping them with a couple layers of masking tape and wearing a face mask, such as spraying down the dust with a spray bottle of water or such? I heard it's bad to breathe or touch the dust particles. Thanks for your opinions and knowledge!

Pipe Cutter
Cut wide first and ride that for awhile

is that a carbon bar?

yes it's a carbon bar but not the CNT version. I've ridden my friend's fixie and he has his bars short, I like them but I am definitely going about an inch longer than his (his are really short).

I wouldn't screw around with carbon but my guess is to cut slowly and use copious amounts of lube

what would work best as lube? chain lube, or car oil, or WD40 or something I need to buy? I hope I can just use something I've got laying around

No! Not on a carbon bar.

Masking tape and a fine hack saw blade, read this over: https://www.eastonbike.com/downloadab...-05-Carbon.pdf

They'll be less absorbent, sure, but if you were going to be using the wider more absorbent hand position you wouldn't be cutting it off anyway, right?

haha i read that one and yea no pipe cutters for me . and you are correct about the hand positioning hehe I've got to be "cool" right? LOL anyways the bars look really funky at their current length (to me at least)

How long are they?

Yes NO pipe cutters. I cut my FSA K-force risers, that're carbon.

You definitely want a FINE tooth hacksaw.

To prevent fraying, cut halfway then flip over and start again, meeting the first cut in the center.

We already had that discussion.

Masking tape, a fine blade, and rotate it to prevent tearout at the exit. I have done many.

The only issue usually with carbon bars is the reinforced area intended for the clamps of shifters, brake levers, etc. The manufacturer will usually specify the maximum you can cut off and still have sufficient reinforced area for this. If you are running a brake, be aware of it. If not, it's not a concern.

i wouldn't call 1.5" off each side "pretty short." when your grips are dipping into the "rise," then your bars are "pretty short"

you're right i guess.. my friend has his cut so the grips are touching the rise part and mine are going to be longer since I'm going to run them with a brake for a while until I feel comfortable taking it off (if I ever do) My bars are already cut so they aren't the 660mm (I think) they were when they were purchased. I plan on having about an inch or so of space between the rise and my grips to accomodate for the brake and maybe headlight positioning.

Sorry but that's not a proper way of gauging how a bar is too short, you're not taking into account that some grips are longer than others. My grips go all the way past the rise of the bar simply because I use a longer BMX set of grips yet my risers are wider than my 42cm road drops.

I should hope so - my MTB risers are ~25cm wider than my road bars.

oh? what is the proper way to gauge when a bar is "pretty short?"

different grips ARE different sizes, but you cut 1.5" off monkey lites and even track grips aren't going to reach into the rise.

i wouldn't judge by how long the grips are, or even how long the bars are now. mount them in the stem, straddle the bike (or better yet, go for a short ride) and note where your hands are most comfortable. mark that or remember roughly where it is. then measure 3–5cm past that from the center of the bar—in case they'd been cut unevenly before—and cut there.

do the masking tape/fine tooth saw/halfway then flip cut method as described above. only use isopropyl alcohol or something else mild to put the grips on— compressed air is best if you have it.

I cut off 1.25" off my Monkey Lite (not CNT) with the same method as above. 1 wrap of masking tape and a really fine tooth hacksaw.

When cutting, I used an old crappy brake lever as a guide so the cut would be straight and would provide a guide for the blade to rest against. It also helps prevent fraying of the bar since I cut RIGHT against the clamp.

I let the blade cut on its own and put very little downward pressure on the cutting teeth. Let the saw do the work.

Once I finished, I lightly hit all edges with 500 grid wet sand paper to catch any small frays. Easton has a bar cutting how-to in their FAQ here:
https://www.eastonbike.com/downloadab...-05-Carbon.pdf

I cut them haha it took a while to get the blade to cut all the way through. Going to put the grips on later since I have Togo to work. So for the compressed air I have a small can that is for cleaning computers but my friend has an so compressor. Will mine work? And how do I use the air?

The can of air does not have enough volume to work. You need a compressor. Shoot the air "under" the grip to put a cushion of air between the grip and the bar. A rubber tip usually helps with this. Otherwise, most grips have a small hold on the ends. Blow air into there while pluging the other open end of the bar. The air will blow up the grip slightly and it will slide right on. Takes < 3 seconds each side to get grips on and off this way. Good luck.

Thanks forvthat tip I never thought to use air

+1 to fine, fine hacksaw and masking tape. Measure twice, cut once. And remember to flip it to complete the cut. A little fine, fine sandpaper if necessary never hurt either.

I used masking tape a 24tpi blade and some bike chain lube to keep the dustto a minimum. I then hit it with some 100 grit and smoothed down the ends. I think using a blade with more teeth or a finer grade sand paper would have taken a year and not looked any different.

should have mentioned it before, but it's never a bad idea to wear a respirator when you're cutting carbon parts, unless you're in open air with a breeze on.