How do you keep your chain from being black?
#51
'Black Chain' indicates Too much Lube, Too long between cleaning, Very Dirty riding conditions.
To avoid 'Black Chain', use a very thin oil such as Home Brew, Rock'N'Roll, Boeshield, or Dumond Tech Light.
Apply liberally to the rolers, but wipe and wipe until no stain on your rag.
You want the Lube to penetrate deep inside the Rollers/Pins, but none on the outside to collect dirt.
I lube and Wipe Down my chain the night before every ride.
To avoid 'Black Chain', use a very thin oil such as Home Brew, Rock'N'Roll, Boeshield, or Dumond Tech Light.
Apply liberally to the rolers, but wipe and wipe until no stain on your rag.
You want the Lube to penetrate deep inside the Rollers/Pins, but none on the outside to collect dirt.
I lube and Wipe Down my chain the night before every ride.
#52
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City
Bikes: Pake Track frame with various components, 2012 Trek 2.1
Why not try this:
https://prollyisnotprobably.com/2009/...r_tutorial.php
C'mon tarck-sters, it's yet another oppourtunity for color coordination!
Srsly though, I wonder if this might casue more problems than it's worth. I'm thinking increased friction in the drivetrain, the cut edges getting jammed up w/ the chain....
https://prollyisnotprobably.com/2009/...r_tutorial.php
C'mon tarck-sters, it's yet another oppourtunity for color coordination!
Srsly though, I wonder if this might casue more problems than it's worth. I'm thinking increased friction in the drivetrain, the cut edges getting jammed up w/ the chain....
#53
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 832
Likes: 0
From: Brooklyn finally.
Bikes: Bianchi San Jose, fixed
No I don't see any adverse side effects, aside from slightly added noise
The cover is thin plastic, your drive train is all metal. Your drive train will cut through your finger without breaking a sweat.
Plus the whole "gaurd" moves with the chain.
Pretty nifty idea actually. It's basically a very slimmed down version of a dutch bike chain cover.
All that said, I would never use one, proper chain maintenance is the way to go.
The cover is thin plastic, your drive train is all metal. Your drive train will cut through your finger without breaking a sweat.
Plus the whole "gaurd" moves with the chain.
Pretty nifty idea actually. It's basically a very slimmed down version of a dutch bike chain cover.
All that said, I would never use one, proper chain maintenance is the way to go.
#54
manonthemoon
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 748
Likes: 0
From: Seattle, WA
Bikes: Current custom builds: FG=KHS Flite 100 DH=Transition Blindside FR=Transition Bottlerocket
#55
srsly. personally i hate all that 'colourways' and matching-rims-and-bartape stuff but this actually looks both clever and practical...
#57
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,382
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta
Bikes: Mercier Kilo TT Pro, Schwinn Le Tour Conversion, Free Spirit polo beater, Cervelo P2T, aluminum tandem.
Doesn't this verge on scraper bike territory? 
Although it doesn't seem like a bad idea to me.

Although it doesn't seem like a bad idea to me.
#58
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 727
Likes: 0
2) have there ever been any reports of stolen chainrings? is that even an issue?
3) if loctite can secure your pedals, why not loctite the chainring? how are your saddle / bars / stem secured from these misc part thieves?
there may not be such a thing as overkill for locking, but when your locking method causes you other problems I think its time to consider what is really needed for your situation.
if you're worried about the space in the lock, you can upgrade the lock to one with less space to fill for around $10.
Last edited by zip22; 06-16-09 at 05:57 PM.
#59
Senior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 180
Likes: 1
From: Heidelberg, Germany
Bikes: 2008 Trek 520, Brooks B-17 special, Leather handlebar tape, Berhault Stainless fenders, Dinotte 200l, Amber, and taillight, Nitto campee, and Big Rack
Read this....
Depending on the bike, he recommends two of the best lubes imo!https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/lube.asp
Depending on the bike, he recommends two of the best lubes imo!https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/lube.asp
#60
Lio Fralop
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 263
Likes: 0
From: Milwaukee
Bikes: '95 Klein Attitude w/XT & '05 Klein Aura w/Ultegra
I admit I only skimmed most of the thread but I don't think anyone mentioned letting the lube soak and evaporate before doing anything else. I think this is or was one of the "250 tips" from Bicycling magazine. Even with a high viscosity "dry" lube there will still be some water content. Before you wipe and certainly before you ride you need to let it sit about 12-24 hours in a fairly dry, non-cold environment to evaporate and soak in.
And of course it will do no good if you aren't cleaning right to begin with. If you want to get rid of black gunk you have to clean thoroughly, not just wipe it off and add more lube on top. Use a degreaser and get the whole chain, cogs, pulleys, etc. degreased, then dry it as much as you can, then let it sit for a day so it dries even more, THEN you can apply new lube (and do use the right stuff for the job, you aren't greasing an axle or bearings or a squeeky door hinge). You'll need some stiff brushes to get between some of your cassette rings. Once you've done a really thorough job, however, you won't have to go through all that again for a while (unless you over-lube and don't let it evaporate and/or don't wipe excess).
But even with all that, if you're riding in a dusty environment (like mountain biking as opposed to road biking on clean, dry pavement), or given enough time, lube will still attract dust and become gunky if you don't take care of it regularly.
And of course it will do no good if you aren't cleaning right to begin with. If you want to get rid of black gunk you have to clean thoroughly, not just wipe it off and add more lube on top. Use a degreaser and get the whole chain, cogs, pulleys, etc. degreased, then dry it as much as you can, then let it sit for a day so it dries even more, THEN you can apply new lube (and do use the right stuff for the job, you aren't greasing an axle or bearings or a squeeky door hinge). You'll need some stiff brushes to get between some of your cassette rings. Once you've done a really thorough job, however, you won't have to go through all that again for a while (unless you over-lube and don't let it evaporate and/or don't wipe excess).
But even with all that, if you're riding in a dusty environment (like mountain biking as opposed to road biking on clean, dry pavement), or given enough time, lube will still attract dust and become gunky if you don't take care of it regularly.
#61
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,047
Likes: 1
From: Dallas, TX
Bikes: Panasonic NJS Keirin x2, Level Professional, Bianchi CUSS, GT Pulse
I like to soak in acetone, wipe it down until it leaves no more black, then heat up some chainsaw lube and let it sit.
Take it out, wipe it off, good as new.
Take it out, wipe it off, good as new.
#63
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 7,075
Likes: 6
1. apply
2. wipe off excess
3. enjoy your beautiful clean chain
#65
Kaffee Nazi
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,374
Likes: 0
From: Richland, WA
Bikes: 2009 Kestrel RT800, 2007 Roubaix, 1976 Lambert-Viscount
I'll echo what others have said. Clean (I run my chain through a chain scrubber with mineral spirits, refilling until the solvent is relatively clear), then lube with your favorite lube. Let it soak in and dry, then wipe off the excess. You can keep wiping the dirt and lube off the outside of the chain after every ride until it's time to lube again.
Wiping after a ride is a one minute job
Wiping after a ride is a one minute job
#66
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 332
Likes: 0
I am currently using an SRAM PC-1 Nickel Plated chain (got it for 10 dollars local) and it has stayed cleaner than any other chain I've used. Still nice and shiny after several months. My KMC chain turned black only after a week or so.








