How do you keep your chain from being black?
#5
I read in Zinn's book that after lubing the chain, you should wipe it down with a clean dry cloth.
He said you want grease in the recesses of the links, on the outside of the chain there is no need for the grease, also, grease is sticky so that dirt will accumulate. And that dirt can work it's way in between the links and cause wear.
He said you want grease in the recesses of the links, on the outside of the chain there is no need for the grease, also, grease is sticky so that dirt will accumulate. And that dirt can work it's way in between the links and cause wear.
#7
Are you implying that some people do actually ride their bikes?
I thought this forum was all about how to build up a nice track bike to mount on the wall. The road forum is for people who actually ride isn't it!
I thought this forum was all about how to build up a nice track bike to mount on the wall. The road forum is for people who actually ride isn't it!
#12
Spawn of Satan

Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 765
Likes: 1
From: Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA
Ok, sorry for the confusion.....
To clear things up, I'm not worried about the aesthetics.
I want to prevent my fingers from being dirty when I lock up the bike. I use a Krypto NY Chain. And the final step is putting the disc lock through the chainring. It gets my lock all greasy (in additional to my fingers).
I also want to prevent the chainring tattoo on my pants/leg.
I'll post a picture of the way I lock up and you'll see why I'm annoyed with a dirty chain.
To clear things up, I'm not worried about the aesthetics.
I want to prevent my fingers from being dirty when I lock up the bike. I use a Krypto NY Chain. And the final step is putting the disc lock through the chainring. It gets my lock all greasy (in additional to my fingers).
I also want to prevent the chainring tattoo on my pants/leg.
I'll post a picture of the way I lock up and you'll see why I'm annoyed with a dirty chain.
I suggest you don't put the lock through the CR and get a chain guard. Disposable nitrile gloves also work well.
If you find a lube that doesn't get black after 30 miles and actually works, let everyone on this forum know about it. You will instantly have 1000's of friends.
You could go to a belt drive. This is a major advantage belts have over chains.
Last edited by captsven; 06-10-09 at 06:40 AM. Reason: forgot ****
#14
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 445
Likes: 0
From: Columbus, Ohio
Bikes: Serotta Colorado III Track (Renyolds Ouzo Pro Aero Fork, Dura-Ace to Mavic CXP-14 wheels, Sugino crank, Thomson and 3T the rest), Steelman Cyclocross (Campy Record 10, Deda Newton & Thomson stuff)
Wax lube (white lightning) works ok in this regard. The idea is that when it gets dirty it just flakes off.
Now, it won't work as well as real wet lube, but you'll avoid some of the chainring tattoos and such.
Now, it won't work as well as real wet lube, but you'll avoid some of the chainring tattoos and such.
#15
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,382
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta
Bikes: Mercier Kilo TT Pro, Schwinn Le Tour Conversion, Free Spirit polo beater, Cervelo P2T, aluminum tandem.
Do you think it is necessary to lock up that thoroughly? Maybe it is where you live ... but it sounds like it could possibly be excessive.
#16
+1 to wax.
i use pedro's ice wax. dob on, wipe off, dob on, wipe off... at least once a day. is there grit on my chain? yes. but does it still look nice and shiny and new after three months? you bet!
there's lots of discussion on ice wax at https://www.mtbr.com/cat/accessories/...47_131crx.aspx
i use pedro's ice wax. dob on, wipe off, dob on, wipe off... at least once a day. is there grit on my chain? yes. but does it still look nice and shiny and new after three months? you bet!
there's lots of discussion on ice wax at https://www.mtbr.com/cat/accessories/...47_131crx.aspx
#17
Live without dead time
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,136
Likes: 0
From: Toronto
Don't want to get things dirty? Don't touch your chain. It's probably not necessary to lockup your chainring.
#18
Bill
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 630
Likes: 0
From: HIGHLANDS RANCH, CO
Bikes: Specialized Globe Sport, Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Pro
The chain is a very vulnerable and important component on the bike and therefore requires regular maintenance (cleaning and lubrication) to remain relatively trouble free while performing all its tasks. The alternative is frequent replacement but that in and of itself is maintenance. Maintenance (or in your case just touching such a component) is frequently dirty work especially when that component is positioned down near the souce of grime stirred up by the wheels riding on the trails, roads, etc, and having some sort of grime attracting lube to help it run more smoothly for a longer time. But in your case you might carry a pair of latex gloves.
#19
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,382
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta
Bikes: Mercier Kilo TT Pro, Schwinn Le Tour Conversion, Free Spirit polo beater, Cervelo P2T, aluminum tandem.
About the gloves, I think he worries also about his actual lock getting greasy, which will transfer grease to whatever he is holding his lock with.
#23
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 851
Likes: 1
From: SO-CAL
Bikes: Litespeed Teramo, Argon 18 Road, Fuji Mt Fuji Pro MTB, Fuji Track Pro FG, & Cannondale Quick CX Cross
#24
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
From: philadelphia
Bikes: stevens prestige, douglas matrix, lemond poprad sscx, specialized rockhopper sl
did you bother to clean all the crap that collected on your chaingring and cog when you cleaned your chain? thats like cleaning a white shirt and rolling around in the mud again wondering why your shirt is still dirty.
#25
After you clean and oil the chain, grab a copy of War and Peace and start wiping it down.
You should be bored out of your skull and a few hundred revolutions of the crank is not excessive... just make sure you stay clear of the chain ring and rear cog as we know how nasty that can be.
The chain should feel dry when you are done and then do this again after you have ridden some miles as the oil from the inside will work itself out.
Under most riding conditions, 800 miles is too long to go without giving your chain a really deep cleaning.
I know many folks who run two chains and swap them at regular intervals to even out the wear... the unused chain gets a solvent bath while the other is at work and this appears to greatly extend chain life.
You should be bored out of your skull and a few hundred revolutions of the crank is not excessive... just make sure you stay clear of the chain ring and rear cog as we know how nasty that can be.
The chain should feel dry when you are done and then do this again after you have ridden some miles as the oil from the inside will work itself out.
Under most riding conditions, 800 miles is too long to go without giving your chain a really deep cleaning.
I know many folks who run two chains and swap them at regular intervals to even out the wear... the unused chain gets a solvent bath while the other is at work and this appears to greatly extend chain life.






