I've noticed that the nut that holds my wheel into the dropout had gouged the paint off (and looks as if it has take off a small layer of the metal) in the shape of the nut on both out sides of my rear dropouts. I changed the gearing the other day for a time trial race and when I took the wheel off today it has gouged off the paint in another spot on the dropout (this one isnt gouged as deep though). I have a Steamroller so its steel. I was wondering if this is normal? the bike I had before this didnt goung the hell out of the dropouts and I'm worried that I will have to eventually buy new dropouts and have them welded on, which I dont want to do. Will this be fine or is there something I could put between the surface of the dropout and the nut?

It's normal. I've used flat washers between the nut and dropout. Some gouging will still occur, but less than just using nuts only.

If you're concerned with how it looks, get yourself some washers that are the correct size for the axle but have an outside diameter slightly larger than the nut.

Nuts are textured to prevent slippage, though. Doesn't using a washer create more slippage?

That's exactly what the texture is for. Putting washers in between the drop out and the nut is a pretty bad idea. Paint chips and gouging on the fork end is completely normal.

I've used washers that are also waffle textured on both sides. I've had, built and maintained a lot of bikes since I was a kid. Sometimes I used washers, sometimes I didn't.

I can't recall ever having a wheel that slipped.

They do that, I don't mind that the nuts bite in, I know the wheel won't slip.

You can buy track nuts with built-in floating serrated or smooth washers. When you tighten the nut, the washer does not turn and gouge the dropout. However, I've also used heavy duty smooth flat washers with separate standard hex nuts on my road fixies without any slippage problems. It is easy to tighten them sufficiently to obtain the necessary friction connection without stripping the axle or nut threads. Standard serrated flange nuts are the worst; not only will they gouge your dropout, they will make it almost impossible to properly adjust your chain, as the axle will move in and out of the dropout as you tighten the nut. Therefore, if you don't want to spend the $$ for some high end track nuts, you are better off just using standard hex nuts and heavy duty washers.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/fixed.html#bolts

if you don't have track nuts(attached washer)...get some.

So what's better, the serrated or non?
I have been using the same track nuts that came on my bike which are serrated and sometimes they are really tough to loosen up, because they are holding onto the metal.

Are they the one-piece nuts with built-in washers (flange nuts)? These are the worst (see my post above). The type with the floating washer per the photos by Soil-Sampler won't jam, and will be easy to tighten and remove. I'd get the serrated type for extra grip; since they don't turn, they will only leave small marks on your dropout and won't do any damage.

Ok, thanks.
I have the floating type washers built in to the nut.
I will probably get new ones soon since the ones I have are a bit rusty, they weathered through Maine winter salt and nastiness.

See I have track nuts but i still gouges the dropouts. I Don't nessesarily care if it looks bad I'm just wondering if in time there will be so much wear I will need to replace the dropouts.

https://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_S...ls&ProdID=1451

Could something like this be used and how are they attached?

believe those are for Aluminum frames to prevent excess wear and tear.

As long as the washers are floating and not seized up, they will not turn when you tighten the nut so the dropout will not be worn down. The little marks from the serrations are harmless. The dropouts will never wear out.

So why do aluminum bikes have these steel savers in their dropouts? is aluminum a softer metal that will wear quicker?

Yes, exactly.