Removing braze-ons
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Ok, frame is finally stripped of all its old paint. Before I paint it, how do I go about removing the top tube braze ons? I'm also thinking of cutting off the derailleur hanger or converting it into a beer bottle opener. I don't have a Dremel tool so my dad lent me a grinder he has but it seems like overkill. He also said I could just work it off with a set of pliers or something. Plus, I'm scared I'm gonna do something stupid like accidently cutting into my top tube. I could always leave the braze-ons there but I really like the clean, simple look of true "track" frames. Thanks.
Last edited by progre-ss; 07-28-04 at 04:50 PM. Reason: changed some text
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Originally Posted by progre-ss
. Plus, I'm scared I'm gonna do something stupid like accidently cutting into my top tube. I could always leave the braze-ons there but I really like the clean, simple look of true "track" frames. Thanks.
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Personally I'd use the grinder to get the majority of it off. Be careful with it! Then get a coarse file and knock it down, then a finer file, etc.
The other option, if they really ARE brazed on (and not welded) is to get a torch and melt the brass and blow it off with compressed air. The thing should come right off at that point. Then, when you have it off, sand it down or file if necessary to remove any high spots.
Others probably have more experience but that is how I'd go about it
The other option, if they really ARE brazed on (and not welded) is to get a torch and melt the brass and blow it off with compressed air. The thing should come right off at that point. Then, when you have it off, sand it down or file if necessary to remove any high spots.
Others probably have more experience but that is how I'd go about it
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Originally Posted by rykoala
Personally I'd use the grinder to get the majority of it off. Be careful with it! Then get a coarse file and knock it down, then a finer file, etc.
The other option, if they really ARE brazed on (and not welded) is to get a torch and melt the brass and blow it off with compressed air. The thing should come right off at that point. Then, when you have it off, sand it down or file if necessary to remove any high spots.
Others probably have more experience but that is how I'd go about it
The other option, if they really ARE brazed on (and not welded) is to get a torch and melt the brass and blow it off with compressed air. The thing should come right off at that point. Then, when you have it off, sand it down or file if necessary to remove any high spots.
Others probably have more experience but that is how I'd go about it
#5
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Torching it would be the best option, IMO.
I have done this to several frames in the past. My first project involved a hack saw to remove the bulk of the TT cable guides, DT shifter mounts, and derailluer hanger. This was followed by a bastard file, smooth cut file, and then sand paper. It came out very well, but it was a lot of work, and I have the impression that I may have taken some material off of the frame tubes as well.
Second project involved my Metabo 4 1/2" angle grinder (something like 12,000 rpm). Worked like a charm for the first two guides, then cut right into my toptube. Not recommended. That frame has been disassembled and is now a pile of tubes and lugs to serve as another project.
Third project involved my Oxy-Acetylene torch. By far the best and most effecient. I heated up the braze ons till they were cherry and grabbed them with a set of pliers. Off they come, no problem. Then reheat the area and use a fine metal brush to get all the extra brass off the spot while its hot. No cuts, dents, or residual damage of any kind. This will only work with brazed fittings though. If they are welded you will just heat the things up until they distort the tubing. (not good)
Project four: was gonna torch off the braze-ons, etc. but someone decided that they needed my torch more than I did. Alas, I think the fittings will just stay as this is the cheapo beater bike.
-Pete
I have done this to several frames in the past. My first project involved a hack saw to remove the bulk of the TT cable guides, DT shifter mounts, and derailluer hanger. This was followed by a bastard file, smooth cut file, and then sand paper. It came out very well, but it was a lot of work, and I have the impression that I may have taken some material off of the frame tubes as well.
Second project involved my Metabo 4 1/2" angle grinder (something like 12,000 rpm). Worked like a charm for the first two guides, then cut right into my toptube. Not recommended. That frame has been disassembled and is now a pile of tubes and lugs to serve as another project.
Third project involved my Oxy-Acetylene torch. By far the best and most effecient. I heated up the braze ons till they were cherry and grabbed them with a set of pliers. Off they come, no problem. Then reheat the area and use a fine metal brush to get all the extra brass off the spot while its hot. No cuts, dents, or residual damage of any kind. This will only work with brazed fittings though. If they are welded you will just heat the things up until they distort the tubing. (not good)
Project four: was gonna torch off the braze-ons, etc. but someone decided that they needed my torch more than I did. Alas, I think the fittings will just stay as this is the cheapo beater bike.
-Pete
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I used a couple hand files and some sandpaper on my fixie.
Worked fine, looks good, but don't get carried away-- there's a (very) slight depression in the top tube where the file went a bit deep.
I bought the widest, flattest hand file I could find, hoping to avoid any unintentional ruts.
After sanding with 150/230/400 and priming/painting/clearcoating, it looks fine.
The paint-- Rust Oleum High Performance Enamel-- really blows. Least durable spray I've ever used.
Worked fine, looks good, but don't get carried away-- there's a (very) slight depression in the top tube where the file went a bit deep.
I bought the widest, flattest hand file I could find, hoping to avoid any unintentional ruts.
After sanding with 150/230/400 and priming/painting/clearcoating, it looks fine.
The paint-- Rust Oleum High Performance Enamel-- really blows. Least durable spray I've ever used.
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hack saw the big stuff off then use a hand file to get it smooth
i even left the part that was actualy brazed on...the part flush to the bike, as a reminder of its past
i even left the part that was actualy brazed on...the part flush to the bike, as a reminder of its past
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regardless of which option you choose - hurry up and do it! leaving your stripped frame bare like that is bad news down the road. all the rust in your neighborhood is like "hey, lets go hang out on this frame"... and the other rust is like "ok, ill bring the flaming hot cheetos"
Last edited by al5; 07-29-04 at 01:02 PM.
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My brother took his frame down to a neighborhood metal work shop and a guy there took them off in no time for $10.
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UPDATE
This morning I woke up with the need to grind metal. That's right. Braze-ons have been ground off using the grinder my dad lent me. I also ground of the derailleur hanger. Here are a couple of pics of the bare metal frame and seat tube lugs. And yes that is rust! I'm gonna steel wool the surface rust at lunch today, prep it for primer and prime the sucker. Also gonna get me some Framesaver or equivalent. She'll be done soon! Yay!
This morning I woke up with the need to grind metal. That's right. Braze-ons have been ground off using the grinder my dad lent me. I also ground of the derailleur hanger. Here are a couple of pics of the bare metal frame and seat tube lugs. And yes that is rust! I'm gonna steel wool the surface rust at lunch today, prep it for primer and prime the sucker. Also gonna get me some Framesaver or equivalent. She'll be done soon! Yay!
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Next time, if they're brazed on, you guys can just pop those bad boys off with some locking pliers, then file the remaining (oh geez, what is it, bronze?) off.
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I took my frame to work and ground the braze-ons off during lunch break using a little high-speed air-powered sander. It uses tiny 3-inch discs and turns at 19,000 rpm max. I only ground off the really rusty ones, though. The others I left on in case me or somebody else wants to turn it into a geared bike someday, but I doubt that'll ever happen!