I'm looking for a good lockring. My last one kept stripping off my hub, partially because my hub was crap and I was told my lockring was bad. I recently bought a velocity deep v wheelset that comes with formula hubs. Do the threadings on formula hubs strip easily? And what would be a good lockring to go with it? Please, help me Obi-wan Kenobi, you're my only hope.

Oh yeah, and I've heard of a "tighten-ride-then tighten again" method when it comes to securing the lockring and cog. Is this method necessary and effective?

i use surly lockrings.

formula hub threads won't strip unless the cog/lockring are installed wrong. make sure you use a lot of grease and the proper tools

Alright thanks for the advice bro. What's the word on shimano dura-ace lockrings?

Dura-ace are fine.All my lockrings are Dura-ace and most of my hubs are formulas and i never had any issues.I think most issues are due to poor installation anyway.Make sure the cog is tightend properly,then torque down the lockring properly.

What constitutes as poor installation? How the **** am I supposed to know what 30 ft lbs is with my lockring spanner? What's wrong with tightening it as hard as you can?

Alright then, that sounds easy enough. I was kinda freaking out about my newly ordered wheels with formula hubs. Thanks a bunch.

Get a torque wrench and get a feel for what 30 ft-lbs is. With a 10" wrench or so, it's nearing as tight as you can go just using your wrist, not getting into it with your shoulder. The problem with tightening things as hard as you can is, they're too tight.

There's nothing wrong with tightening it as hard as you can, as long as the lockring is properly threaded. You're unlikely to damage the threads with the torque possible using any hand tool. Good quality tools are important, though, as crappy tools can damage the slots and make it difficult to remove the lockring when that time comes.

The key is to completely tighten the cog first, before securing the lock ring. I use EAI cogs w/DA lockrings on my Formula hubs.

Oh yeah, and I've heard of a "tighten-ride-then tighten again" method when it comes to securing the lockring and cog. Is this method necessary and effective?

That is probably why your hub was stripped in the first place. Use a CHAINWHIP or ROTAFIX your cog first.

What...?

EAI cog and DA lockring here too. Used it on 3 different formula hubs and probably installed/removed over a handful of times. No problems. Used a pedro trixie tool for the lockring and as a chainwhip.

Okay so I'm guessing that's a bad method then. What the "ride" part was supposed to do is loosen up the cog so that way we the rider can tighten it up one more time. But I'm assuming that the method is not necessary now.

Okay I hear a lot of people saying "installed properly" but nobody has yet to tell me what that means. How do you properly install a cog and lockring? I just really need some clarification here.

Use a chainwhip to install the cog as tight as you feel comfortable. Then go mash up a hill, or if you have no hill just really hard around the block. Do not apply any back pressure, as this is the final step in tightening your cog. Take your lockring spanner with you and tighten down the lockring one more time. You should be fine after that. It doesn't hurt to carry the spanner with you for a few weeks and make sure it's staying properly snug.

Whoa wth? I'm totally confused, did you just accidently miss the step where I'm supposed to put the lockring on after tightening the cog and then mashing? or am I supposed to put the cog and mash without the lockring? And also, you said applying backpressure is the final step, but in the end, you didn't mention anything about backpedaling as a final step.

Anyways, so this is the "tighten-ride-tighten again" method. Some people have been telling me this can possibly strip my hub? I'm so ****ing confused lol.

look, it's simple. install cog/lockring and tighten until the muscles in your arms are bulging. use grease. go mash up a hill to add the final touch. back pedal back down, as the cog & lockring are reverse threaded from another and this will tighten the lockring if there's still play in it. when you get home, do a once over with the chainwhip and the spanner to make sure everything is kosher.

Alright, sounds easy enough. Thanks.

also, EAI cogs & DA lockrings. almost anything widelsy available will work fine, but I (and many other forum users) am partial to this combo. the Pedros Trixie tool is fine for most of it's applications, but the spanner is damn near worthless. the tool is too short to get good leverage with it. use something made specifically for this purpose, not a multi tool with a bottle opener attached to it. your life could be riding on it.