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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

What the hell is this noise / going on

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Old 01-14-10 | 05:12 PM
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What the hell is this noise / going on

I've been riding a cheap bikesdirect single-speed bike regularly for 2-3 months with no real problems. Today I was going up a moderate hill and my cranks/bb (I think it was one of these) made this crazy noise over and over. I was standing up and putting a lot pressure on the cranks b/c I was going up the hill. It sounded and felt like a bike that was slipping out gear, except that I have no gears. The noise/clicking/event happened 3-4 times while I was going up the hill. I got off and spun the crank w/ my hand. No noise. Walked the bike to the top of the hill and rode the rest of the way home. I'm assuming it was the added pressure I put on that area of the bike that caused this.

I haven't fully inspected yet, but I will tonight. Do you guys think that the cranks are loose or that something f'd up is going on? I'm no bike mechanic expert, but I'm competent with tools and the like. Yes, I put the bike together w/o LBS support, and I haven't had a pro tuneup on the bike except for having the wheels trued when I first got it.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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Old 01-14-10 | 05:15 PM
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My bars creak when I'm grinding up a hill. Might just be some flex.
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Old 01-14-10 | 05:21 PM
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If you're riding a windsor the hour it is notorious for having an annoying noise coming from the bottom bracket, it will only get worse over time.
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Old 01-14-10 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Rhythm of Life
My bars creak when I'm grinding up a hill. Might just be some flex.
Mine too, Nitto rb21. It's the only thing I don't like about them.
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Old 01-14-10 | 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ncohen
If you're riding a windsor the hour it is notorious for having an annoying noise coming from the bottom bracket, it will only get worse over time.
And the stem/bars as well.
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Old 01-14-10 | 07:02 PM
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How often have you tightened your crank bolts / checked your chain tension?
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Old 01-14-10 | 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by bigvegan
How often have you tightened your crank bolts / checked your chain tension?
If the OP has an BB with a square taper axle, it will take up to a dozen re-tightenings of the crank bolts after rides before the new crank is fully bedded on the axle flats. I built up my FG last fall, and I still have to periodically tighten the crank bolts. Eventually it will bed in and the bolts will stay tight.
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Old 01-14-10 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by bigvegan
How often have you tightened your crank bolts / checked your chain tension?
I have not done this at all yet, but will be sure to do so. Is eyeballing the chain the best way to check its tension? Am I looking to see if has become too tight or too loose? Thanks for the responses everyone.
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Old 01-14-10 | 08:44 PM
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Sounds like a loose BB.....

Use your lockring tool to tighten it.

The same exact thing happened to me on my peugeot (FAIL french threads that are designed in such a way that they loosen themselves with peddling).
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Old 01-14-10 | 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie
If the OP has an BB with a square taper axle, it will take up to a dozen re-tightenings of the crank bolts after rides before the new crank is fully bedded on the axle flats. I built up my FG last fall, and I still have to periodically tighten the crank bolts. Eventually it will bed in and the bolts will stay tight.
Way to make stuff up. The only reason those bolts come loose is because of inadequate torque.
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Old 01-14-10 | 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by operator
Way to make stuff up. The only reason those bolts come loose is because of inadequate torque.
Thanks for educating me. I just love to make things up.
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Old 01-14-10 | 11:50 PM
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First thing I'd do is re-torque everything to specs. Park Tools' site has all the torque specs you'll ever need. Invest in a torque wrench --- it'll save you lots of heartache.

Also, grease everything. In general, where metal touches metal, apply grease. Again, refer to Park Tools' site for further guidance. Or Sheldon Brown, or the manufacturer's installation instructions for whatever part is in question.
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Old 01-15-10 | 12:49 AM
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could be a loose fixed cup on the BB
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Old 01-15-10 | 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by bumblebeetuna
I have not done this at all yet, but will be sure to do so. Is eyeballing the chain the best way to check its tension? Am I looking to see if has become too tight or too loose? Thanks for the responses everyone.
For your chainline, hold the wheel still and move the pedals forward / backward. There should not be much play. If you can move the pedals more than a tiny bit (how tiny is up to you, but not very much), you need to loosen the axle nuts and pull your wheel back and tighten the chain a little bit.

Regarding your cranks, to quote bikesdirect.com - NOTE: PLEASE TIGHTEN YOUR LOCKRINGS, CRANKS, PEDALS ETC BEFORE AND AFTER EVERY RIDE


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Old 01-15-10 | 04:31 AM
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It's the rear triangle flexing which twists the chain line making the chain try to jump off of the chainring or the cog. This happens with larger flexy frames when stronger riders put down some torque.

I would guess that the frame is 57cm or larger.
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Old 01-15-10 | 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by bigvegan
Regarding your cranks, to quote bikesdirect.com - NOTE: PLEASE TIGHTEN YOUR LOCKRINGS, CRANKS, PEDALS ETC BEFORE AND AFTER EVERY RIDE


You beat me to it.
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Old 01-15-10 | 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Brian Sorrell
Invest in a torque wrench --- it'll save you lots of heartache.
Make sure it's a professional quality name brand ratcheting click type. Otherwise you're wasting your money, since it will be wildly inaccurate and get out of calibration easily. After a while a cheap torque wrench will break completely and stop ratcheting. Another consideration is the torque range of the wrench. I have two wrenches: one has a range of 25-250 in-lbs for small screws like stem to handlebar clamp and the other with a 10-100 ft-lbs for larger bolts like crank arm fixing. I get a lot of use out of my torque wrenches, since in addition to 14 bicycles, I also have 4 motorcycles.
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Old 01-15-10 | 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie
Make sure it's a professional quality name brand ratcheting click type. Otherwise you're wasting your money, since it will be wildly inaccurate and get out of calibration easily. After a while a cheap torque wrench will break completely and stop ratcheting. Another consideration is the torque range of the wrench. I have two wrenches: one has a range of 25-250 in-lbs for small screws like stem to handlebar clamp and the other with a 10-100 ft-lbs for larger bolts like crank arm fixing. I get a lot of use out of my torque wrenches, since in addition to 14 bicycles, I also have 4 motorcycles.
Not a fan of ratchet style torque wrenches.



Really like working with the old fashioned kind, especially when working on motorcycles
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Old 01-15-10 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Sorrell
First thing I'd do is re-torque everything to specs. Park Tools' site has all the torque specs you'll ever need. Invest in a torque wrench --- it'll save you lots of heartache.
Or just use common sense when tightening stuff and don't overdo it.
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Old 01-15-10 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by mihlbach
Or just use common sense when tightening stuff and don't overdo it.
Or under do it...
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