do you have an opinion of phil wood's iso hub system?

Many English made coaster hubs use a threaded interface as do some early Canadian models... oddly enough... I have never stripped a hub.

Another proprietary cog system like the level - for me no thanks. I don't change my cogs often nor do I race track. I use my wheels on the road and for commuting. I've never had a problem with the traditional thread on lockring/cog so anything else is just a solution looking for a problem - for me

Nope.

You're confusing good engineering (the implementation) with design (the overall plan to solve all facets of a given problem, including the usability).

Factory machines in the early industrial revolution were damn sturdy and fast, but took people's hands and feet off all the time. Good engineering, poor design.

Guys, we still have very few (if any) details about the failure of the original hub.

What hub is it?
What were you doing when it broke? Sprinting, climbing, skidding, riding, tricks, riding off a curb?
Did you have a lockring on it? Aluminum or steel?

who cares, the hub sucks - picture proves it. Next thread

Hahaha, thanks for so many of your opinions.

But I'd like to know what brand of hub it was and the circumstances of the failure.

Just because you are a malcontent that thinks everything that you don't like "sucks ass" doesn't mean we should all feel that way.

You are more than welcome to proceed to the "next thread" and not return here. No one held your lil hand and made you click this one.

Your guess is as good as mine what brand of hub. Fixed/free, M10x1 axle, cup and cone bearings, no distinguishing marks. Came laced to a Mavic CXP22 with DT Swiss spokes if that helps.
What was I doing? Resisting, coming up to a stop sign. Some skidding/skip-stops earlier that ride.
Formula cog, rotafixed.
Dura-ace lockring.
46/18.
rider weighs 170#

That's an exceptional piece of information. ... Doh! I just bought a chainring. Darn it; it won't work. I think they don't make cog bigger than 18T.

I ride on the street with Miche cogs and carrier. I have been using this system for more than 3 years now. I have never experienced any play, noise, or loosening of the lockring...none whatsoever. I change cogs exactly twice a year, a higher gear in summer and a lower gear in winter.

Sounds like those generic no-name, loose-ball track hubs that came stock on the cheap version of the Fuji Track some years ago.

Why even bother with the system in that case?

Keep your eyes open for an old steel fixed gear hub, e.g.:

No particular reason. Its just what I have on there and it works. Why bother changing? I have other bikes with more traditional threaded cogs. Those work fine too.

what's that peg in the center for? do you actually still these float around from time to time?

My guess is it's a removable oil port cap.

Those are about as solid as a hub gets and if I had a good supply of those they'd be my first choice for anything but serious racing applications... I know a machinist that is capable of fabricating these but they would run about $250.00 each and could also get built with cartridge bearings.

Some hubs have a spring clip as a seal... this is the rear hub on my '55 Lenton and is one of the smoothest hubs I have ever had the joy to use.

You may have screwed up, sure. But being easy to screw up is absolutely a design flaw. If it can be screwed up it will be screwed up, so designs should make it hard to screw up. If it is easy to screw up, it will get screwed up a lot. Sure, it would be fine if people didn't screw it up. But they will, in direct proportion to how easy it is.

So when people go looking for a better design than the reverse-lockring, the fact that failures happen mostly due to screw-ups is useful information in considering other options, but not a reason not to consider other options. If something else is just as good when both are done right, and it's easier to do the new thing right, the new thing is better.

In the interest of full disclosure, I have had reverse-lockrings on several bikes, and never had a failure. My complaint with the system is that I'd like to be able to change cogs with the minimal light-weight tools I carry with me (i.e. no chain whip).

Proprietary? That's ISO standard 6-bolt. Pretty much about as standard as you can get.

I'm considering converting a front disc hub to fixed rear. Is Tomicog still the only company that produces the ISO mounting cogs? I know I can drill any ol' cog, but it would be nice to have ready made precisely machined piece instead of having to go to a machine shop.

Either tomicog or here....https://www.velosolo.co.uk/

I have personal experience with tomicogs and they are great. I've heard good things about the velosolo cogs, but no personal experience. Buy whichever is cheaper and you can't go wrong. Sometimes the velosolo cogs are more expensive or cheaper depending on the exchange rate.

You need a mini lock ring tool and have to know how to rotafix a cog.

Hey, man. If you need to change gears when out on the road you can use a flip-flop hub. Then there's always a derailleur.

He did not buy that wheel from me.

That's an oil port. Hubs like that turn up on eBay fairly often.