Road Frame to Single Speed
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,982
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From: Puget Sound
Bikes: 2007 Rocky Mountain Sherpa 30 (bionx), 2015 Cannondale Synapse Carbon Ultegra
Road Frame to Single Speed
I have the opportunity to get a fairly nice aluminum road frame w/carbon fork for an excellent price. I already have the road bike that I want, but I was thinking of using this frame for a single speed. I already have some components that I could use:
Mavic Open Pro wheels (28 spoke)
Easton stem and bar
I have several saddles to choose from
I would mainly use the bike to commute on. It wouldn't take much of a beating, 90 percent of the commute is on a fairly new MUP.
What do I need to consider in this type of a conversion? Any suggestions on a seatpost or crank set? Thanks in advance for your responses.
Mavic Open Pro wheels (28 spoke)
Easton stem and bar
I have several saddles to choose from
I would mainly use the bike to commute on. It wouldn't take much of a beating, 90 percent of the commute is on a fairly new MUP.
What do I need to consider in this type of a conversion? Any suggestions on a seatpost or crank set? Thanks in advance for your responses.
#3
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Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,982
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From: Puget Sound
Bikes: 2007 Rocky Mountain Sherpa 30 (bionx), 2015 Cannondale Synapse Carbon Ultegra
hmmm... this doesn't seem to be a very popular idea in this forum. The more I read the posts in the forum, it appears that most single speeds (and fixed gear) are based on track frames.
#4
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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 166
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From: Singapore
Bikes: Parlee Z3 / CiOCC Mockba 80 (SS)
You can be just as happy on any frame converted to a SS/Fixed.
Using back your old road wheels will be easy, just like what hairnet said. Get a conversion kit.
Cranks, just about anything that fits your budget will work. Just do some research into the gear combination that you think will suit your type of riding I guess.
Using back your old road wheels will be easy, just like what hairnet said. Get a conversion kit.
Cranks, just about anything that fits your budget will work. Just do some research into the gear combination that you think will suit your type of riding I guess.
#5
Not true, many of us have conversions. I'm working on mine right now. It's an older bike though, 78 Peugeot UO9 and it has the semi horizontal dropouts, does yours?
Just got my Mavic CXP-22's in the mail yesterday, they're purty
#6
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 12,257
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From: A Coffin Called Earth. or Toronto, ON
Bikes: Bianchi, Miyata, Dahon, Rossin
You can be just as happy on any frame converted to a SS/Fixed.
Using back your old road wheels will be easy, just like what hairnet said. Get a conversion kit.
Cranks, just about anything that fits your budget will work. Just do some research into the gear combination that you think will suit your type of riding I guess.
Using back your old road wheels will be easy, just like what hairnet said. Get a conversion kit.
Cranks, just about anything that fits your budget will work. Just do some research into the gear combination that you think will suit your type of riding I guess.
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Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
#7
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,304
Likes: 40
From: Victoria
You may also be able to avoid buying a SS kit if you have a few items kicking around.
Cogs and spacers can be sourced from old cassettes. Unscrew or cut the bolts holding the cogs together (on many, not all cassettes) and pull apart the cogs and spacers. You'll likely need more than one cassette's spacers, or you can cut down tubing of the appropriate diameter to fit. I recently used some copper, and I've seen folks use PVC. You'll need to either measure the chainline or be willing to futz around with the cog position to get it right. Keep the old lockring from the hacked-up cassette to hold it all together.
Personally, I love conversions. I ride on the road, I like SS. No brainer for me. I'm not too interested in riding a track bike on the road. Horses for courses and all that.
My recent freehub setup so you can see what I'm getting at. From the inside out, I have a plastic cassette spacer (keeps the copper from bottoming out on the hub shell), then copper pipe cut to length, re-used cog, plastic cassette spacer, really think metal cassette spacer (to give the lockring something to bite into, in the past I've also used the smallest cog here as it has the indents that register with the lockring) and then the lockring. I had to be sure that I set things up so that the lockring tightened up against the whole assembly before it bottoms out on the freehub body.
Cogs and spacers can be sourced from old cassettes. Unscrew or cut the bolts holding the cogs together (on many, not all cassettes) and pull apart the cogs and spacers. You'll likely need more than one cassette's spacers, or you can cut down tubing of the appropriate diameter to fit. I recently used some copper, and I've seen folks use PVC. You'll need to either measure the chainline or be willing to futz around with the cog position to get it right. Keep the old lockring from the hacked-up cassette to hold it all together.
Personally, I love conversions. I ride on the road, I like SS. No brainer for me. I'm not too interested in riding a track bike on the road. Horses for courses and all that.
My recent freehub setup so you can see what I'm getting at. From the inside out, I have a plastic cassette spacer (keeps the copper from bottoming out on the hub shell), then copper pipe cut to length, re-used cog, plastic cassette spacer, really think metal cassette spacer (to give the lockring something to bite into, in the past I've also used the smallest cog here as it has the indents that register with the lockring) and then the lockring. I had to be sure that I set things up so that the lockring tightened up against the whole assembly before it bottoms out on the freehub body.
#8
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 30,225
Likes: 649
From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Just do it!
I'm thinking the majority of conversions of this type are "assemblies of opportunity" You put together whatever components you find handy and economically and which you think will look cool together.
It pretty much doesn't matter what you do because we're going to find a reason make fun of your bike anyway.
I'm thinking the majority of conversions of this type are "assemblies of opportunity" You put together whatever components you find handy and economically and which you think will look cool together.
It pretty much doesn't matter what you do because we're going to find a reason make fun of your bike anyway.
#9
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,982
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From: Puget Sound
Bikes: 2007 Rocky Mountain Sherpa 30 (bionx), 2015 Cannondale Synapse Carbon Ultegra
Serious? You'll make fun of my bike? Dang! If you can make fun of my bikes I can assure you that it will be even easier to make fun of the rider! Either way, thanks for the encouragement.
#10
Maybe this isn't a problem on a frame with horizontal drop outs since you can keep the chain tight always. With vertical drop outs you'll need a tensioner, which means the chain won't be under constant tension and tight.
Last edited by hairnet; 03-18-10 at 06:37 PM.
#11
#12
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 11,854
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From: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Bikes: 34 frames + 80 wheels
There was a whole discussion a while back about using cassette cogs for SS conversions. It basically concluded that it's a bad idea because those cogs are designed to make shifting easier, which means they sort of want to drop the chain and may not be totally safe. I would do it to see if I like the gear, but in the end I think I'd get a cog without all the shaped teeth and cut outs.
Maybe this isn't a problem on a frame with horizontal drop outs since you can keep the chain tight always. With vertical drop outs you'll need a tensioner, which means the chain won't be under constant tension and tight.
Maybe this isn't a problem on a frame with horizontal drop outs since you can keep the chain tight always. With vertical drop outs you'll need a tensioner, which means the chain won't be under constant tension and tight.
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