Does anyone make a rear, eccentric, splined cassette hub?
#1
Thread Starter
Delusional Laserbrain
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 405
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From: South Orange, NJ
Bikes: 2008 Specialized Tricross, 1993 Giant Iguana rebuild w/ singlespeed drive train
Does anyone make a rear, eccentric, splined cassette hub?
To take care of chainline & tension on bikes with vertical dropouts?
#3
Having used an eccentric hub from the abovementioned company (of course, it's not a cassette hub), and having disassembled it to correct a bug introduced during fabrication, I have to say that it's a bad idea. The ENO hubs are shiny but badly fabricated (high tolerances) with cheap and crappy bearings. Hugely overpriced.
It would be much better if you would just change the dropouts to horizontal or track, if you are so attached to that frame.
It would be much better if you would just change the dropouts to horizontal or track, if you are so attached to that frame.
#4
Thread Starter
Delusional Laserbrain
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 405
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From: South Orange, NJ
Bikes: 2008 Specialized Tricross, 1993 Giant Iguana rebuild w/ singlespeed drive train
Damn tensioner & spacers.
#5
#7
Thread Starter
Delusional Laserbrain
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From: South Orange, NJ
Bikes: 2008 Specialized Tricross, 1993 Giant Iguana rebuild w/ singlespeed drive train
#8
But I would STRONGLY DISCOURAGE you from trying to use a vertical dropout bike for SS/FG. You're doing too many compromises for no good reason. Either get a frame with track/horizontal dropouts, or replace your current dropouts - and then USE ANY DAMN WHEEL YOU LIKE.
#9
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Delusional Laserbrain
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: South Orange, NJ
Bikes: 2008 Specialized Tricross, 1993 Giant Iguana rebuild w/ singlespeed drive train
#11
Thread Starter
Delusional Laserbrain
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: South Orange, NJ
Bikes: 2008 Specialized Tricross, 1993 Giant Iguana rebuild w/ singlespeed drive train
But I would STRONGLY DISCOURAGE you from trying to use a vertical dropout bike for SS/FG. You're doing too many compromises for no good reason. Either get a frame with track/horizontal dropouts, or replace your current dropouts - and then USE ANY DAMN WHEEL YOU LIKE.
That said, a cassette hub with spacers will give me exact chainline and half links/ magic gear will hopefully get me close on tension- otherwise a singleator...
And then I can still use any damn wheel I like. I was just hoping for an all-in-one solution.
#12
#13
Well, Horizontal dropouts would be nice but that's the bike I have. I bought a new Cyclocross bike and decided to convert my old 1993 Giant Iguana into a SS townie bike. I already stripped and repainted the frame, so I am not cutting and welding the dropouts at this point. Just ain't gonna happen.
That said, a cassette hub with spacers will give me exact chainline and half links/ magic gear will hopefully get me close on tension- otherwise a singleator...
And then I can still use any damn wheel I like. I was just hoping for an all-in-one solution.
That said, a cassette hub with spacers will give me exact chainline and half links/ magic gear will hopefully get me close on tension- otherwise a singleator...
And then I can still use any damn wheel I like. I was just hoping for an all-in-one solution.
But, it's good that you do understand the importance of being able to use any damn wheel you like. Flexibility is often underrated.
#14
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: A Coffin Called Earth. or Toronto, ON
Bikes: Bianchi, Miyata, Dahon, Rossin
would you like to try the sheldon method?
use a hub with hollow axles, one that works with a QR, and chop the axle so that it sits flush with the lock nuts.
now, instead of the axle sitting in the dropout, you have the skewer sitting in the dropout, giving you more room to work with.
and if that doesn't give you enough room, which it should, then you can file some slots into the dropout if the dropout has enough material.
be sure to use a shimano or campagnolo skewer.
use a hub with hollow axles, one that works with a QR, and chop the axle so that it sits flush with the lock nuts.
now, instead of the axle sitting in the dropout, you have the skewer sitting in the dropout, giving you more room to work with.
and if that doesn't give you enough room, which it should, then you can file some slots into the dropout if the dropout has enough material.
be sure to use a shimano or campagnolo skewer.
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Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
#15
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Joined: Jul 2009
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For singlespeed, chain tension isn't as big a deal. I think you'll be OK. Get a cassette hub and a couple of used cassettes. That way you'll have a number of cogs to choose from and plenty of spacers. Try and find a magic gear from those. The chain will become slightly more slack after a year or so, but it shouldn't be a big deal. If you had a couple chainrings to try (was your crank originally a double?) that would help. I'd start with the small ring and the 13T or 14T cog.
#16
Thread Starter
Delusional Laserbrain
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: South Orange, NJ
Bikes: 2008 Specialized Tricross, 1993 Giant Iguana rebuild w/ singlespeed drive train
Also, Thanks AEO,
I read about Sheldon's skewer method, but to be honest I would still be nervous about that. I'm afraid I would end up on that "MS paint your mishaps" thread..

And, wroomroomopps, Of course magic gears work. It's bloody magic, mate.
#17
#18
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From: Between the mountains and the lake.
Bikes: 8 bikes - one for each day of the week!
#19
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Bikes: team miyata, '73 p-14, MB-3, centurion lemans, Mystery TT, mongoose atb '85
#20
You're mostly right. You can do a bit of tweaking by adding a spacer before threading on the freewheel onto the hub, but that will get you only a mm or two. Which makes the OPs need for a freehub all the more understandable.






