Do you know how the cups on hubs are kept in place? With a counter nut. Which is threaded in the same direction as the cups, and yet it holds them in place. In mechanical engineering, it's well known that two nuts, threaded against each other, will block further (un)threading of both. That's why a bottom bracket lockring, which threads in the same direction as the cog, is not a "waste of time".

It's only a "waste of time" if it strips the threads off the hub - which is indication of poor hub body material, and would produce the same effect with a track lockring as well. Even easier, because a track lockring has a smaller diameter.

I hope this explains the issue. If not, I can try to MS Paint it.

OK, if you have read this far and are still open to suggestion here goes:
Clean the threads with solvent, use a good permanent thread locker compound, a bb lock ring, and rotafix the cog on.
I had five bikes set up this way, rode them for years through all kinds of weather (CLE, OH) and up and down many hills without a rear brake (except on my winter commuter) and I never had an issue with the cog coming loose.
I am ~200lb, I skid, and if you read my shiner post you will see that I just locked up the back wheel and the cog did not spin off.

Is it the best idea? no Can it be done with lasting results? sure

Enjoy

That's because you're smart.


Thank you for helping in stopping the flood of BS in this thread.
Though I disagree that one has to use a permanent thread locker compound. Some day, one may want to re-use that wheel, or that cog, or both.

No, just old. And I like things symmetrical; I'd be running the front brake anyway. I have no preconceived ideas as to whether I'll like fixed. I got a ss for Christmas and really like it. I got a 1984 Schwinn World Sport for $10, parts to do the conversion for about $20 at a swap meet, and I think I have old tires I can use. $30 fixie? Boo-yeah.

^^Smart, old, what's the difference....

Permanent thread locker can be "unlocked" by applying heat I have to check the LOCTITE website but I think it is around 200degF.

Edit: from the LOCTITE website:
Blue: Can be removed with hand tools
Red: Apply heat to remove
Green: Apply heat to remove

Enjoy

^^I didn't know that. But yes, the loctite website does state that red loctite is removable with heat (and tools).

In conclusion, I think I can switch from blue to red loctite for most of my assembling, where I don't mind to blast them with a heat gun once in a while.

WHY HAS THIS THREAD MADE IT TO A SECOND PAGE? This a horrible idea. Why argue about it? Just don't effing do it.

You're the guy who "only signals with his middle finger". I think you should stop killing your braincells with lack of sleep, auto-erotic asphyxiation, drugs or alcohol abuse. Or start using those braincells you have left.

If everyone believed that there would be a lot less new fixed riders out there.
Including me way back when.
At least nowdays newbies have a place to go to get opinions/advice from experienced mechanics/riders instead of learning the hard way at the expense of their dental insurance deductable.

Enjoy

The safest way to run a suicide without doing anything special to the hub other than securing it tightly is to run a front brake and use it .

I've run suicide hubs with no BB lockring and also track hubs with no lockrings for several years without the cog ever coming loose, even with frequent back pedaling to scrub off speed. But I always use the front brake to come to a complete stop.

Sorry it is finals week, so there's a definite lack of sleep. As for the other three, I only engage in one and rarely at that (I'll let you guess which one there big boy.) Further, as to the middle finger signaling, it was two things: 1) more of a joke and 2) a unfortunate truth at times due to the horrible way cyclists are treated here, especially if they aren't wearing lycra. Thanks for your concern though muffin.

The way to make a "suicide hub" safe? Simple: don't skid and use brakes.

I've used suicide hubs for years and had no issue softening up the red loctite with a simple lighter.

Its the same technology that's been used on headsets, hubs, and bottom brackets for years....I get the feeling that a normal threaded lockring is a suitable way of making sure something doesn't back off, if it wasn't then they would have thought of something better by now.

-Connor

What's rotafixa?

https://lmgtfy.com/?q=rotafixa

Thanks a bunch!

holy crap i looked at rotafixa it seems crazy but possible has anyone tried this

fortunately that place is your LBS and not bikeforums. anyways back on topic. suicide hubs are dumb. people dont run these for a reason.
you can get a "track" hub for about $20 or a craptacular track wheel for about $70. so really money shouldnt be an issue if you save a little.

I do it because I don't have a chainwip. Be gentle, I went wayyyy too hard my first time and snapped the chain. After that it too great effort to remove the cog

I call shenanegins.
The LBS is not the place to get advice on this topic.
In fact the few that know what you are talking about will not help you because of perceived liability. (I know this from experience as a bike mechanic)
Several of the chain bike shops I have stopped in have HS dropouts working there that have no Idea what a flip flop hub is. When I described it one "mechanic" said "Yea, they stopped making those a long time ago, you must be pretty old".

So lacking the "Expert" advice of the LBS Bike forums is indeed the place to get said advice.
It has helped me with bike issues over the years and I hope I can continue to share my knowledge and lessons learned.

Enjoy

It's called a reverse threaded lockring. A normal threaded lockring is good for many things as you mentioned, but virtually useless on a suicide hub. Mind as well not use one.

I respectfully disagree.

Enjoy

Don't lie to me, boy.