guy needs help designing a fixie from the ground up
06-13-10, 09:01 PM
#26
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I would just call up Tony and see what frame and what size he recommends.
What I never got around to saying in my other message is that you could buy a complete Mark V for $400, then still have money in your budget to select some different parts. Or, what I would do is save the money I didn't spend, ride the bike the way it came, and then decide which parts need upgrading. I especially lean this way because a complete, pre-built Mark V is LESS MONEY than a Mark V or Phoenix partial build. The main reasons that I would encourage an IRO complete are: the customer service, the guarantee, and the wheels. I don't know if anyone here knows for sure, but I have heard the IRO hubs look a lot like Formulas and the rims look a lot like Velocities.
I don't know much about the Phoenix. I was on an ill fitting Angus, which was why I sold it. I recently sent Tony a message and he said I should have tried a larger frame. I think there are some members riding a Phoenix, but there are a lot of members riding Mark Vs.
I have been riding a while, and I am in the middle of a build project myself. Some of the time I want to just sell everything and buy one of those Mark V's for what this next wheelset build is going to cost me.
Now, the Phoenix will accept larger tires, but I think you will be plenty comfortable riding a Mark V. It is a little tighter than most road bikes, but not as tight as most track bikes. For me, this meant more fun to ride than most bikes.
I wouldn't worry that much about your weight and the bike, but I would worry more about getting a good fit. Any properly built wheel with enough spokes should be fine. I weigh >200 as well, and the IRO wheels were always fine. I rode 23s and 28s on mine and never had any issues. I think you would be fine on 28s.
What I never got around to saying in my other message is that you could buy a complete Mark V for $400, then still have money in your budget to select some different parts. Or, what I would do is save the money I didn't spend, ride the bike the way it came, and then decide which parts need upgrading. I especially lean this way because a complete, pre-built Mark V is LESS MONEY than a Mark V or Phoenix partial build. The main reasons that I would encourage an IRO complete are: the customer service, the guarantee, and the wheels. I don't know if anyone here knows for sure, but I have heard the IRO hubs look a lot like Formulas and the rims look a lot like Velocities.
I don't know much about the Phoenix. I was on an ill fitting Angus, which was why I sold it. I recently sent Tony a message and he said I should have tried a larger frame. I think there are some members riding a Phoenix, but there are a lot of members riding Mark Vs.
I have been riding a while, and I am in the middle of a build project myself. Some of the time I want to just sell everything and buy one of those Mark V's for what this next wheelset build is going to cost me.
Now, the Phoenix will accept larger tires, but I think you will be plenty comfortable riding a Mark V. It is a little tighter than most road bikes, but not as tight as most track bikes. For me, this meant more fun to ride than most bikes.
I wouldn't worry that much about your weight and the bike, but I would worry more about getting a good fit. Any properly built wheel with enough spokes should be fine. I weigh >200 as well, and the IRO wheels were always fine. I rode 23s and 28s on mine and never had any issues. I think you would be fine on 28s.
06-13-10, 09:23 PM
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so guys, back to IRO...think the partial build is a good choice for me? and if so, which frameset? or should I go complete build?
06-13-10, 10:45 PM
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Yeah, I gotta admit I'm just scared of 23mm tires at my size. 28's do seem like they could be reasonable though. Guess I'll have to await feedback from another big guy like myself. I'm riding 40's now.
Are you suggesting that I buy a complete and switch out what I don't like? I haven't fully considered that option, but my line of thinking was telling me it'd be easier/cheaper to start from scratch. I'd be open to the idea of buying a complete and switching out though. Do you think that's a better/cheaper/more effecient approach? That would raise some new questions for me.
As far as what I don't like about those completes, for all three the tire width and decals (which I know is just aesthetic but that's part of what has drawn me to building from ground up), the drop bars for the kilo and madison because I intend to go bullhorn (easy switch though right?), something about the 925's general appearance turns me off, and most importantly, the general uncertainty about what size tires I can get on them. I understand that ultimately the aesthetics shouldn't matter as much, but like I said, that, along with being able to choose my parts is what has me leaning towards going from ground up.
Thanks again for all your help so far.
Are you suggesting that I buy a complete and switch out what I don't like? I haven't fully considered that option, but my line of thinking was telling me it'd be easier/cheaper to start from scratch. I'd be open to the idea of buying a complete and switching out though. Do you think that's a better/cheaper/more effecient approach? That would raise some new questions for me.
As far as what I don't like about those completes, for all three the tire width and decals (which I know is just aesthetic but that's part of what has drawn me to building from ground up), the drop bars for the kilo and madison because I intend to go bullhorn (easy switch though right?), something about the 925's general appearance turns me off, and most importantly, the general uncertainty about what size tires I can get on them. I understand that ultimately the aesthetics shouldn't matter as much, but like I said, that, along with being able to choose my parts is what has me leaning towards going from ground up.
Thanks again for all your help so far.
I'm 6'2" tall and 255lbs. I ride on 23's perfectly fine. Never been scared. Just air them up properly and you will be fine.
06-14-10, 11:28 AM
#30
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I would just call up Tony and see what frame and what size he recommends.
What I never got around to saying in my other message is that you could buy a complete Mark V for $400, then still have money in your budget to select some different parts. Or, what I would do is save the money I didn't spend, ride the bike the way it came, and then decide which parts need upgrading. I especially lean this way because a complete, pre-built Mark V is LESS MONEY than a Mark V or Phoenix partial build. The main reasons that I would encourage an IRO complete are: the customer service, the guarantee, and the wheels. I don't know if anyone here knows for sure, but I have heard the IRO hubs look a lot like Formulas and the rims look a lot like Velocities.
I don't know much about the Phoenix. I was on an ill fitting Angus, which was why I sold it. I recently sent Tony a message and he said I should have tried a larger frame. I think there are some members riding a Phoenix, but there are a lot of members riding Mark Vs.
I have been riding a while, and I am in the middle of a build project myself. Some of the time I want to just sell everything and buy one of those Mark V's for what this next wheelset build is going to cost me.
Now, the Phoenix will accept larger tires, but I think you will be plenty comfortable riding a Mark V. It is a little tighter than most road bikes, but not as tight as most track bikes. For me, this meant more fun to ride than most bikes.
I wouldn't worry that much about your weight and the bike, but I would worry more about getting a good fit. Any properly built wheel with enough spokes should be fine. I weigh >200 as well, and the IRO wheels were always fine. I rode 23s and 28s on mine and never had any issues. I think you would be fine on 28s.
What I never got around to saying in my other message is that you could buy a complete Mark V for $400, then still have money in your budget to select some different parts. Or, what I would do is save the money I didn't spend, ride the bike the way it came, and then decide which parts need upgrading. I especially lean this way because a complete, pre-built Mark V is LESS MONEY than a Mark V or Phoenix partial build. The main reasons that I would encourage an IRO complete are: the customer service, the guarantee, and the wheels. I don't know if anyone here knows for sure, but I have heard the IRO hubs look a lot like Formulas and the rims look a lot like Velocities.
I don't know much about the Phoenix. I was on an ill fitting Angus, which was why I sold it. I recently sent Tony a message and he said I should have tried a larger frame. I think there are some members riding a Phoenix, but there are a lot of members riding Mark Vs.
I have been riding a while, and I am in the middle of a build project myself. Some of the time I want to just sell everything and buy one of those Mark V's for what this next wheelset build is going to cost me.
Now, the Phoenix will accept larger tires, but I think you will be plenty comfortable riding a Mark V. It is a little tighter than most road bikes, but not as tight as most track bikes. For me, this meant more fun to ride than most bikes.
I wouldn't worry that much about your weight and the bike, but I would worry more about getting a good fit. Any properly built wheel with enough spokes should be fine. I weigh >200 as well, and the IRO wheels were always fine. I rode 23s and 28s on mine and never had any issues. I think you would be fine on 28s.
06-14-10, 01:35 PM
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ugh. more questions. haha. I emailed IRO and found out that they also offer the Mark V prebuild with a raw frame for the same price. It isn't clearcoated. Would that rust? The humidity here is very, very high, all year round. I'm also waiting to here back as to whether they'd put white deep V's and 28mm tires on it for me in-house at an extra cost so I could save myself the trouble of doing that after I get the bike. I read on here in another thread that Tony's willing to work with his customers that want different parts switched out.
06-14-10, 07:08 PM
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right on. decisions decisions. Eventually I'm gonna have to decide on my gear ratio too, which I haven't even begun to research or consider.
06-14-10, 09:19 PM
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yep. I didn't understand that either.
Anyhow, I'm back to considering the Kilo TT, this time the stripper version, in raw. Or the Mark V prebuild in raw. Now, the raw Kilo IS clearcoated, and the raw IRO is NOT. Through the research I've done, it seems like half the people say that a clearcoat on a raw frame will cause rust, and the other half say that a you have to have clearcoat on a raw frame to prevent rust. This is very confusing to me, and I know nothing about this. Capo, you said it wouldn't rust for years if I tended to it properly. When I take my current bike outside from my air-conditioned apartment, it is immediately covered in a haze of wetness, caused by the ridiculous humidity in south Mississippi, and it feels damp throughout my ride. With that in mind, is raw even a reasonable option for me, and if so, would it be better to be clearcoated or not, and why?
Having said that, can someone explain to me why the IRO Mark V is a better choice than the Kilo TT stripper? I'm not implying that it's not, I just want to have a better understanding as to why. I'd say I'm still leaning 70/30 towards IRO, but everyone seems to agree that the Kilo is a great bike. Which comes with better componets stock? And what makes the componets better?
And I once again thank everyone for all their input. I would probably just give up a make an uninformed choice without this thread and your help.
Anyhow, I'm back to considering the Kilo TT, this time the stripper version, in raw. Or the Mark V prebuild in raw. Now, the raw Kilo IS clearcoated, and the raw IRO is NOT. Through the research I've done, it seems like half the people say that a clearcoat on a raw frame will cause rust, and the other half say that a you have to have clearcoat on a raw frame to prevent rust. This is very confusing to me, and I know nothing about this. Capo, you said it wouldn't rust for years if I tended to it properly. When I take my current bike outside from my air-conditioned apartment, it is immediately covered in a haze of wetness, caused by the ridiculous humidity in south Mississippi, and it feels damp throughout my ride. With that in mind, is raw even a reasonable option for me, and if so, would it be better to be clearcoated or not, and why?
Having said that, can someone explain to me why the IRO Mark V is a better choice than the Kilo TT stripper? I'm not implying that it's not, I just want to have a better understanding as to why. I'd say I'm still leaning 70/30 towards IRO, but everyone seems to agree that the Kilo is a great bike. Which comes with better componets stock? And what makes the componets better?
And I once again thank everyone for all their input. I would probably just give up a make an uninformed choice without this thread and your help.
06-14-10, 09:53 PM
#37
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I really, REALLY like the IRO stock wheelset. I haven't owned a Kilo, so I can't [and won't] say much about it.
I wouldn't think it would be that difficult to clearcoat either frame. Frames are only painted on the outside anyway, and there are plenty of holes in the frame and fork. If I had a raw IRO, I would probably clearcoat it, but I would just do a DIY spraycan job and wouldn't do it professionally. Or you could tape over their logo.
The cranksets on my IRO bikes have been nice, but the stem on my wife's Mark V was sort of gross. The stem on my Angus wasn't bad. The brakes and levers weren't too bad on either.
What is most surprising - the stock saddles on my IROs have been much better than expected. Seriously. This is a surprise, as most stock saddles are awful. The seatpost is functional, but I have, and continue to use, two stock IRO saddles. I had trouble with a Brooks Team Pro, Specialized Toupe, Alias, and some different Fizik saddles. It all felt better once I went back to the cheapo IRO stock saddle.
I am not entirely sure about a Kilo, but I would not hesitate to ride any IRO bike right out of the box without swapping any parts. I hate to sound like an IRO commercial, but I was really satisfied with their service and their products. And the crash guarantee is nice also...
I wouldn't think it would be that difficult to clearcoat either frame. Frames are only painted on the outside anyway, and there are plenty of holes in the frame and fork. If I had a raw IRO, I would probably clearcoat it, but I would just do a DIY spraycan job and wouldn't do it professionally. Or you could tape over their logo.
The cranksets on my IRO bikes have been nice, but the stem on my wife's Mark V was sort of gross. The stem on my Angus wasn't bad. The brakes and levers weren't too bad on either.
What is most surprising - the stock saddles on my IROs have been much better than expected. Seriously. This is a surprise, as most stock saddles are awful. The seatpost is functional, but I have, and continue to use, two stock IRO saddles. I had trouble with a Brooks Team Pro, Specialized Toupe, Alias, and some different Fizik saddles. It all felt better once I went back to the cheapo IRO stock saddle.
I am not entirely sure about a Kilo, but I would not hesitate to ride any IRO bike right out of the box without swapping any parts. I hate to sound like an IRO commercial, but I was really satisfied with their service and their products. And the crash guarantee is nice also...
06-14-10, 11:30 PM
#38
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Awesome. Thanks again man.
I think I've decided once and for all to go with the standard black Mark V prebuild. Here's what I'm thinking. I'm going to upgrade to all black parts for the extra 25, and see if they'll do me the honor of giving me the standard wheels in white instead of black or silver. After getting it, I'm thinking I'll buy some 28's if the 23's don't work out for me. If the decal bothers me, I'll mask it, but I'm not too concerned about that. I'll swap out the handlebars for risers or bullhorns if the drop bars bother me, since I've never ridden drop bars before. How's all that sound to you? I've basically arrived at your original advice to buy the Mark V complete and change what I feel I need to after riding it, through both my own research and thanks in large part to you, and the rest of the people that have given me input here.
If that all sounds good, I can just decide on a gear ratio more or less. 16?
Is it wise to spend the 50 bucks on their front brake, or should I buy a front brake elsewhere? Also, it doesn't seem to say on their site if the bike comes fixed only or with a flip flop hub? I definitely want to have that option...
I think I've decided once and for all to go with the standard black Mark V prebuild. Here's what I'm thinking. I'm going to upgrade to all black parts for the extra 25, and see if they'll do me the honor of giving me the standard wheels in white instead of black or silver. After getting it, I'm thinking I'll buy some 28's if the 23's don't work out for me. If the decal bothers me, I'll mask it, but I'm not too concerned about that. I'll swap out the handlebars for risers or bullhorns if the drop bars bother me, since I've never ridden drop bars before. How's all that sound to you? I've basically arrived at your original advice to buy the Mark V complete and change what I feel I need to after riding it, through both my own research and thanks in large part to you, and the rest of the people that have given me input here.
If that all sounds good, I can just decide on a gear ratio more or less. 16?
Is it wise to spend the 50 bucks on their front brake, or should I buy a front brake elsewhere? Also, it doesn't seem to say on their site if the bike comes fixed only or with a flip flop hub? I definitely want to have that option...
06-15-10, 03:09 AM
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well on the tire matter, i am 250 and rode 23c tires that were 120-145psi. On my aluminum frame they were hell! on my old steel I had them on they were super fun and fast. so keep that in mind after you get your bike...
06-15-10, 04:43 AM
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IRO brakes are good quality. I forget who makes them specifically, but I would just pay the extra $50 for an installed front.
Does anyone know how long this IRO $400 prebuild deal will last?
Does anyone know how long this IRO $400 prebuild deal will last?
06-15-10, 08:09 AM
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This is what my Angus looked like with a black frame and silver parts. I thought it looked pretty nice.
If I were getting one of these, I think that I would actually get a Mark V singlespeed. It costs $450, but comes with two brakes, which might come in handy. Then I would just buy a cog and lockring separately.
If this is your first fixed gear, I would want to hover around 70 gear inches. IRO chainrings are 46-tooth, so I think I would go with a 46-17 setup. I got mine in a 46-19 setup, which made a great setup for taking it easy and working on my spin. Look for more skid patches, as you will probably want to skid like crazy.
My wife's Mark V came with 28s on it. My Angus [2 years ago or so] came with 23s.
06-15-10, 01:18 PM
#43
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Yep, that's a good looking bike.
So the Mark V fixed is fixed only and the single speed is freewheel only? Which is easier to convert to flip flop? I'm going to call IRO later today with my questions and I'll let you know what I find out.
And thanks for the input on the gear ratio spaceballs. I'm hoping they'd be willing to put 28's on my prebuild, and the fact that your wife's came with them gives me hope. Just curious, did you receive the bars with white tape on them or did you do that yourself afterward?
So the Mark V fixed is fixed only and the single speed is freewheel only? Which is easier to convert to flip flop? I'm going to call IRO later today with my questions and I'll let you know what I find out.
And thanks for the input on the gear ratio spaceballs. I'm hoping they'd be willing to put 28's on my prebuild, and the fact that your wife's came with them gives me hope. Just curious, did you receive the bars with white tape on them or did you do that yourself afterward?
06-15-10, 01:34 PM
#44
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I am not sure about this, but I think all of IROs hubs are flip flops. Further, they may also all be fixed-fixed flip flops. Maybe. A freewheel will spin onto a fixed side of a hub, but you can't get a lockring onto the freewheel side of a flip flop.
So either the fixed or the singlespeed SHOULD have a fixed-fixed flip-flop hub. Check with IRO though. I think the only difference between the two bikes is the singlespeed comes with a freewheel attached and front and rear brakes; the fixed comes with a cog w/ lockring and the option of getting a front brake installed.
The handlebars in my pictures aren't the stock IRO bars, but only because I already had these bars. The white tape was something I had to get on my own and I wouldn't recommend white tape to anyone. Both sets of bars I have received from them have been bare bars that included black cork grip tape, which I would recommend over some the Fizik stuff that I was using.
Feel free to send me a PM if you want to ask anything else.
So either the fixed or the singlespeed SHOULD have a fixed-fixed flip-flop hub. Check with IRO though. I think the only difference between the two bikes is the singlespeed comes with a freewheel attached and front and rear brakes; the fixed comes with a cog w/ lockring and the option of getting a front brake installed.
The handlebars in my pictures aren't the stock IRO bars, but only because I already had these bars. The white tape was something I had to get on my own and I wouldn't recommend white tape to anyone. Both sets of bars I have received from them have been bare bars that included black cork grip tape, which I would recommend over some the Fizik stuff that I was using.
Feel free to send me a PM if you want to ask anything else.
06-15-10, 01:54 PM
#45
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Looks like the build-a-bikes have options for adding a second hub, and configuring it as fixed/free for an extra 25. I really don't understand the $200 price difference between the prebuild and build-a-bike when the only additional thing you can really customize is the color of the wheels, hubs, and cogs, as far as I can tell. Hopefully I wouldn't be asked to pay the build-a-bike price just because I want white rims when that's the only option I'm not already given with the prebuild. If I am, I'll just have to rock them black.
edit: that and the fixed/free configuration
At any rate, hopefully they'll be able to set me all straight when I call them.
edit: that and the fixed/free configuration
At any rate, hopefully they'll be able to set me all straight when I call them.
Last edited by Inquisition228; 06-15-10 at 02:00 PM.
06-17-10, 10:52 AM
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Well, let's see. They will configure any bike as fixed/free for the price of the extra cog. I've decided for sure that I'm going with the Mark V. When I called, they said that they couldn't do the white rims unless I upgraded to build-a-bike. I'm going to ask that again. I had so many other questions when I called that I didn't want to be pushy and point out that that's the only change I'd like to make to the Mark V prebuild. Hopefully I can talk them into it for a little extra.
I called a local guy that does quality powder coating work out of his garage, and he told me he'd powder coat the frame for 50-60 bucks, so I'm going to get the raw frame and have it powder coated. (leaning towards a satin olive/army/tank green.... also considering steel blue and dark gray...still satin finish....input?)
So basically all that's left for me to do is ask one more time if I can get the white rims. If it's a no go, then I'll just worry about that later. Oh, and I'll be getting the single speed prebuild since it comes with both brakes, and having them configure it as fixed/free.
also, they can ship the mark v with 28mm tires, and that's what I'll be getting.
I called a local guy that does quality powder coating work out of his garage, and he told me he'd powder coat the frame for 50-60 bucks, so I'm going to get the raw frame and have it powder coated. (leaning towards a satin olive/army/tank green.... also considering steel blue and dark gray...still satin finish....input?)
So basically all that's left for me to do is ask one more time if I can get the white rims. If it's a no go, then I'll just worry about that later. Oh, and I'll be getting the single speed prebuild since it comes with both brakes, and having them configure it as fixed/free.
also, they can ship the mark v with 28mm tires, and that's what I'll be getting.
Last edited by Inquisition228; 06-17-10 at 10:58 AM.
06-17-10, 01:46 PM
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Ok, final decision. Forget the white rims. Raw Mark V single speed prebuild (450) plus all black parts (25) plus extra cog for flip flop fix/free config (20) = 495, plus powder coat (50 - 60) = 545 - 555. Plus assembly and tune = about 600 bucks. Right at my budget, and everything I was looking for. Should be ordering within the next couple of days.
Here is a very rough, and poorly done mock-up of what it should look like final. just for reference.
Here is a very rough, and poorly done mock-up of what it should look like final. just for reference.
06-17-10, 02:53 PM
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All I had to do to mine was attach the front wheel.
If you are getting it disassembled for powder coating though, I understand.
Ride it and enjoy it! Post pics throughout the process. I would REALLY like to see what a raw Mark V looks like.
If you are getting it disassembled for powder coating though, I understand.
Ride it and enjoy it! Post pics throughout the process. I would REALLY like to see what a raw Mark V looks like.