ive tried a very small segment and only had bad luck after much use and wear.
the point of this is to get other peoples insight on clipins from companies i havent used or have the ability to try, to give me a setup that is a little longer lasting.

thanks for the input though for the guys that helped. id like to get started attempting to train so when i come home i can have my first go an the track. 6 moths and counting

you need to get on the phone with shimano right away. the inherently flawed design of spdsl system had remained lurking, unseen, and ready to strike until your fine research. it has been an honor to see a future nobel laureate at work.

Yes....great pedals so far, but I have only been using them for half a year. No accidental unclipping so far. Despite all the plastic in the platform and cleats, then hold up very well and don't wear nearly as fast as I thought they would.

Is all this fuss because you're riding brakeless?

learn to read

I was just thinking yesterday before my shut-eyes. Wouldn't setting clip-in/out adjustment to the hardest causing premature wear? You have to overcome all that pressure and consequently friction to clip-in/out every time, right? ... And, with SPD-SL cleats are plastic right?

Maybe we should investigate what constitutes cleats (or pedals) "wore-out". Here is my wore-out SPD cleats. I was popping out with this pair. (and I knew no better)

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...i/KC280245.jpg

You can see the latching part is all smoothed out. Took about 3-4 months. That smoothed out part is crucial in SPD mechanism.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...i/KC280246.jpg

See? Anyone else?

I think the guy is looking for an excuse to buy new pedals.

If the pedals mentioned above are strong enough for riders much, much stronger than most people on this message board, then they are strong enough for the OP.

I stand by my assessment that his problems are caused by user error.

Wait ... SPD pedals got all kinda different types. The one I am using now is this.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3.../WellgoSPD.jpg

I think this one has ZERO float, but grabs like dead people from the underworld.

And I need an excuse to rack up data. I would like to see picts of wore-out SPD-SLs and SpeedPlay. :)

Those are SPD-R and they are known for being impossible to pull out of. Many track sprinters love them. But, it's next to impossible to find high-end shoes drilled for SPD-R since 3-hole LOOK drilling is the standard now.

New Speedplay X cleat:
http://www.rtfm.com/newcleat.jpg

Worn cleat:
http://www.rtfm.com/worncleat.jpg
http://www.rtfm.com/screwhead.jpg

SPD-SL
http://cyclingshoesonline.com/wp-con...orn_cleats.jpg

spdsl cleat covers work wonders. the cleats last quite a long time. then, you can swap sides and get a whole new lifetime.

I have yet to pop out of my SPD's despite all my best efforts. Am I doin it rong?

those are regular SPD like old Shimano 600 http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/DSC_2223.jpg

I stand corrected.

this suggestion is useless for those who can't read.

i need new ones anywyas. the left one is clicking as i pedal from my last time being hit by a car about 2.5 months ago, the MAIN need for this thread.

Go with Alium then. It's made of solid aluminum. Getting hit by a car won't kill break those ... at least not before the car snaps your frame and brake the cranks in halves. Cleats are brass and are softer, but wear don't effect cleats' function till they are really beat. I would grab a couple of spare cleats just in case. ... I would throw in a pair of plastic BMX flat pedals in your kit, just in case pedals / cleats / shoes fail. Fail-safe you see?

in how far can you rebuild atacs? i have a alium with a broken spring and an xs with a broken clamp. are the these parts available as replacements? looks like i can pop out the bolts but i need the parts

i have soem MKS Sylvans with cages right now, that is tiding me over until i figure out the pedal situation (plus my shoes and pedals are still in the mail from the parents with some other bike essentials i left home)
is there a reason to go with a MTB style pedal over a road type pedal? Just out of curiousity

I am not sure, but Time probably sells the parts only to the dealers. I got rid of my Alium and have the old carbons. And I have the rebuild manual for it.

http://www.sicklines.com/tech/howto/...al-rebuilding/

You will need to squint to see the part number.

Road type clipless is probably more efficient and lock in tight for the best pedaling. But if you have to walk, the protruded cleats are annoying and sometimes dangerous. Also, I think clipping in and out of MTB pedals seem better when I can't pay much attention to my feet because road situation demand attention. i.e. with ATACs, I successfully clipped in as I was humping down from pedestrian path to the road. Really dangerous maneuver with SpeedPlay.

okkkkkk
so i light of the go/nogo of the speedplay i decided not to go with them as a safety factor
i did however listen tot he fact that the spdsl pedals are used by many track guys, so they must be good and i throw up mine being crappy due to the sheer amount of abuse given to them from crashing and vehiccle to bike accidents

i ordered the shimano 105 pedals., two new pair of cleats (an extra) and some new scott shoes also. i want a spare set of shoes also in case something happens to my shimanos.

thanks again guys!

also, buy cleat covers.

i got 105s all around.

i have covers already :)
i walk in them alot for some dumb reason

Cinelli M-71, FTW:
http://www.velobase.com/CompImages/P...5AB86981F.jpeg