edit: Just accomplished removing my crankset. Appreciate everyone's advice. I feel like such an accomplished individual right now, learning and experiencing hands on to service my bike.


I've just received my tools today and when I tried to remove my crank arms with a Parks CCP-22 ccrank puller, the crank arms wouldn't loosen. I've properly screwed the puller on the threads of the crank arm and then proceeded to tighten it until it wouldn't go anymore, but my crank arms are not loosen like they should in all the youtube videos I've seen. I follow the steps exactly as demonstrated by the instructional videos and I've tried multiple times, but the crank arms just won't loosen. I've even tried tightening the puller in so hard that it left a circular impression of the puller tool in the crankarm. Am I doing something wrong here?

(this is a set of Sugino Messenger Cranks)



additional photos:




the tool (package indeed states CCP-22 Crank Puller):

Make sure the threads of the crank puller are fully engaged with the arm and push (or pull depending on the side) real hard on the tool.

I read on Sheldon Brown's website to remove a stubborn arm.. remove the bolt that holds it in place (you've already done) then just ride it around for awhile and the arm will loosen up and come off. If you want to reuse the arm, then stop riding soon as it gets loose or you can easily ruin the tapered fit.

It can be tight to get it started.
I'm not to sure how the puller can leave a "circular impression on the crank arm".
After you install the body into the crank threads, you need to screw in the center part to push against the end of the spindle.
Maybe a photo of the puller installed and ready to use can give us an idea of the problem.

That's really extreme and I don't think that is the case here.

He just need to really get it going at first then after that it's smooth sailing.

get a hammer and a block of wood. Never fails me when I need to remove my cranks.

are you sure they sent you a ccp-22?, and not an isis style puller?

That's what I was thinking too, especially seeing that it put an indent like that in the crank arm (you can see it right around the square cutout in the 2nd pic).

Thirteen - take a pic of your crank puller and post it so we can see what you're working with.

One of the flaws of the Park CCP-22 tool is that the arm is relatively short and offers little leverage. I've have problems removing some crank arms with mine and attached a pipe cheater bar to it to get the needed leverage. I used to use a Campy puller, which has a hex end for use with a wrench, and would use a wrench twice as long as the Park CCP-22 arm. Remember that a properly tightened crank arm bolt will be tightened to about 400 in-lbs (33 ft lbs), which means about 80 lbs applied to the tool, since it's lever is about 5" at the center if force applied by your hand.

Also, if the crank arm was installed w/o grease or anti-seize on the spindle, it can get super tight to the point where to intially break it loose you may need much more force. It looks from your second photo like the crank has been pulled in almost all the way on the taper, where the end of the spindle is almost flush with the crank bolt seat. If that's the case, that crank arm may be close to the end of its service life.

Updated with new photos. I'm pretty sure I'm using the correct tool as the package states it is a CCP-22 Crank Puller and the reverse side of the package states it fits most square tapered cranks. I'm supposed to be using the tool without the tip cap right? I've been using it without the tip cap.

Is it possible to break my crank arm if I mess with it too much? I'm just trying everything I can think of to try and loosen the crank arm while the tool is engaged and tightened.

Wrong!

I've just tried again with the cap on and I'm still getting the same results as previously. Crank arms wouldn't budge a bit.

I was going to start out by saying to heat up the crank arm good (just the arm) to expand the aluminum. But, I think I would first use a penetrating oil as liquid wrench or BP blaster and let it soak for a day to hopefully get into the joint.

I do not know how a 2 jaw gear puller would work as I did not have good luck using my small one before buying the right puller.

Tom

Put the chain back on and the bike on the floor and stand on the puller tool arm.

TejanoTrackie - Thanks, I've just gotten it off. I think the combination of my not using the tip previously and lack of good leverage caused it to not work. Now that I've messed with it a few times with the tip cap on as well as getting my brother to help as we both push the cranks in opposite directions, the tool was able to go in further and I actually got my cranks to loosen. I feel like such an accomplished individual right about now, being able to learn and experience and service my bike.

Thank everyone who has contributed their words of advice.

Glad to hear that you got them removed. I put copper paste anti-seize on the square taper when installing crank arms.


Tom

Say wha?

Wha?

What is your question? I lube the square shaft of the bottom bracket with copper based anti-seize before installing the crank arms. Some say you should, some say you should not lube the interference fit. I lube.

Tom

I put a thin layer of grease on my square taper BB's too.