I don't get your argument here... Weld quality doesn't matter much on aluminum? Those are some pretty messed up looking welds - so bad on some that it melts away the face of the bottom bracket shell.

Of course it matters - but like I also said, I highly doubt Leader would be selling structurally compromised frames to their customers, especially after how far they've come in the past few years.

People like to make a big deal out of stupid things on the internet. This is a perfect example.

I bought one of the ebay coghouse frames, i got the 721 in my size for $108 shipped. It had a minor blemish underneath the bb on the paint only. There is a scratched x underneath the bottom bracket. Everything is fine and its held up to my riding. (Im not a small person).

I'd say my tone in the post is hardly making it out to be a big deal, just saw someone post a thing about the weld quality of the Ebay frames and was googling leader specs and got brought here and figured I'd post the ebay frame I just got. I said, mine wasn't structurally compromised but that silver one was quite awful.

Not profit, just make back what I've put into the build and yes, I have no problem selling things to dumb people who don't know what they are buying. Plus, it's almost spring time which means a ton of people here are going to all be buying a "sweet fixed gears" and I can just tell them you can do bar spins and make an easy profit.

I was talking to EpicSchwinn.

Yes, you're a dick.

On a lighter note, look what I just got :thumb:


http://www.pedalroom.com/p/2013-lead...td-10036_1.jpg

Nice. It's refreshing to see propr saddle/bar angle on a 725.

It's probably not proper in real life. He probably photoshopped it so we didn't harass him.

The only 725 in existence with proper bar/saddle angle was yours.

:lol:

here is an idea, if you are worried about the structural integrity of a frame dont buy one that is LISTED as having cosmetic faults as how pretty the welds are.

a company as large as leader wouldnt sell the frame if they knew it could cause someone to be injured and they could be sued.

I have been exposed for my evil plot :troll:, in reality the bullhorn bars are upside down and that stem is slammed...

Finished my first fixie build.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8369/8...0df0f3e0_c.jpg

Cool shot...
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8248/8...54497e08_c.jpg

Looks pretty cool actually. Wrap/plug your bars. Get some foot retention. Ditch the reflector.

At this point I'm debating between a Gloss White 725, or a Matte Black 725. Spent the last hour or so going through all these pages looking at examples of them. But I still can't come to an answer for myself. Does anyone have suggestions?

I currently own a pearl white kilo tt

Well, do you like white.... or black?

+1

I like both to be honest. I guess in some way I wanted a black bike since it'd be the opposite of the kilo tt which would end up being my commuter/beater bike. But the white 725s are really nice. So I guess I may end up buying another white bike lol

Black or white, it don't matter.

http://stream1.gifsoup.com/view5/264...or-white-o.gif

Okay last question. I'm narrowing down the size of the frame. I'm currently riding a 47cm Kilo tt which has a standover height of about 29inches, if not slightly more, and I'm looking at the 51cm 725 frame which says that the standover height is 72cm or 28.34inches. So although the frames have a 4cm difference in name, the standover is the same, so I should be okay with a 51cm frame right?

Whether the 51cm frame will be alright for you shouldn't be based on the standover height. You should be focusing first and foremost on top tube length. Also, notice how the Leader's top tube lengths are 'size for size' significantly longer.

Oh, and as Nagrom has kindly linked for you, the best bet is to use a fit calculator. The most important number calculator'll spit out is the recommended top tube length (recommended stem length, etc.)

Im not quite sure how to read and to check and compare the results to the leader chart
. http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=305382http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=305383

So I'm posting it here hoping someone can help me figure this out. (sorry for being so bad at this, I haven't really measured myself before I got a bike. The first time i got a bike at my bikeshop the owner just said that it looked fine, and i went with that being my sizing for the kilo as well.)

Based on those measurements you should be on a 55 cm. Make sure they're correct. Get someone to help you do them. It's a calculator, if you put junk in, you get junk out.

Do you have abnormally long arms for your height?

I probably need to remeasure my arms, but I have short legs, I'm 5'7" and my inseam is around 28.5-29 but I've been told I have a long torso. So maybe thats the problem? And thank you for helping me with all my questions

No problem.

The top tube is arguably the most important measurement. Stand over isn't crucial to how a bike fits. The bike is supposed to fit you while you ride it, not when you're standing over it. I'd remeasure a few times and average whatever you get.