I'm about 5'11". Just wondering what the right size of frame is for me for a fixie.

The bike I'm about to buy is 58cm. Too tall?

most likely unless you have no torso and huge arms...if so then i stand corrected
i ride a 57 and i'm a bit over six foot

Go through this as a baseline: https://www.competitivecyclist.com/za...LCULATOR_INTRO

kinda depends on what type of frame it is i think. track geometry is a little different than road. I am 5'11" and my friends 56cm track bike fits me perfect. but my road bike is a 58

your height is not the issue, your inseam is. i'm 5'11 and ride 52-53cm, because i have crazy short legs. i also need long top tubes and stems, because the rest of my height is (obviously) above the waist.

+1 on inseam length. I am 5' 11 1/2", or used to be, probably have shrunk since I am a couple years from 50.

Anyways, I have a 31" inseam and am long in the torso. I ride a 58 cm, or 23" road bike. My Schwinn Madison is a size L, and it fits me to a "T".

The length of the top tube is critical, that's what governs your reach and therefore, comfort. When I ride a bike with a really short top tube, unless it has a long stem it just feels bad.

Try several bikes at your LBS until you dial in your individual fit.

There are alot of variables, both with respect to your body measurements, bike geometry and your riding style. I ride 54cm-58cm, and I'm 5'11.5". Each of my bikes is dialed in for me. In my opinion, your reach is far more important than inseam length, assuming you can get the right KOPS position by adjusting the saddle position and height.

Generally, imho, track-type bike should be smaller because you'll be in the drops or up over the bars more often - and they are lighter and nimbler if smaller frames. Watch out for some frames with long top tubes, like 56cms with 57cm or longer top tubes. Unless you have have a naturally long reach or like a long stretch (French fit) they can be they a nightmare to get dialed in. And, switching stems maybe the cure for taming a long reach bike, but it also means your CoG (gravity) & steering position will be further back than what might be optimal for the bike.

Knowing what I know, if I had to choose between a frame a little small or little big..I'd probably go with a little small. I ride centuries on my 54cm with a 55.4cm top tube, very nice.

There are alot of variables, both with respect to your body measurements, bike geometry and your riding style. I ride 54cm-58cm, and I'm 5'11.5". Each of my bikes is dialed in for me. In my opinion, your reach is far more important than inseam length, assuming you can get the right KOPS position by adjusting the saddle position and height.

Generally, imho, track-type bike should be smaller because you'll be in the drops or up over the bars more often - and they are lighter and nimbler if smaller frames. Watch out for some frames with long top tubes, like 56cms with 57cm or longer top tubes. Unless you have have a naturally long reach or like a long stretch (French fit) they can be they a nightmare to get dialed in. And, switching stems maybe the cure for taming a long reach bike, but it also means your CoG (gravity) & steering position will be further back than what might be optimal for the bike.

Knowing what I know, if I had to choose between a frame a little small or little big..I'd probably go with a little small. I ride centuries on my 54cm with a 55.4cm top tube, very nice.

If you're looking to get an older road frame and do a conversion, note that sizing is a bit different - the old adage was "fistful of seatpost showing" - people tended to size larger than they do in today's world of compact geometry, etc.

Sheldon Brown has a well thought out article on sizing on his site. I think his method works well in 99% of cases. In short: rely on top tube length first, but use a inseam length as a reality check.

(If you're getting a frame with true track geometry, then ignore all of this.)