Vote

When it breaks or starts causing issues such as jumping off of cogs.

So basically you wait until it's too late.

When it exceeds the stretch limit indicated by Park Tool CC-3. I check at least 4 different sections of chain, since they can stretch unevenly. Chain life varies widely depending on usage and quality. I've gotten over 5000 miles on road chains on geared bikes and only 500 miles on my cross bike.

What are you using for your track bike? What has been the best in your experience (not in regards to price).

I try to replace before it measures 12 1/8" pin-to-pin under tension. I don't keep a good enough mileage log to vote, though.

I just hit the 2000 mile mark and measured my chain with a ruler. Seems to be off by 1.5/16". Trying to find my next replacement.

Ah, I guess not many people have computers on their SS/FG bikes. I put one on all my bikes.

New chain before winter and after spring.

I currently have an Izumi ESH on my Pista Concept, which was the cheapest njs chain at the time, but has been discontinued. I've only used it for one season on the track, so I can't speak to durability, however, it is very smooth running. I has a screw and nut type master link, that is an njs requirement. Prior to that it had the stock KHS chain, that was badly worn after 3 seasons. I suspect a good cheaper chain like a SRAM PC-7X or regular non-njs Izumi would work just fine, but I figure with all the money I spend on racing, what's a few more bucks on a chain.

What are your thoughts on the screw on master link? Does it work well for you? Are you continually tightening every week? Any downfalls to that type of masterlink? Could I not use a master link at all?

No idea how many miles I ride, never checked my chain for wear. I've been riding the same chain everyday for about 8 months now, maybe I should take a look.

The link is a bit of a hassle to install, since you have to tighten the nut at the back, while holding the screw secure at the front. The way it works is the screw is first threaded into the rear link plate until the shoulder on the screw is stopped against the inside of the rear link plate. The nut is then threaded onto the screw threads protruding outside the link plate. Once installed properly, it will not get loose or require retightening. Of course, you can just remove the inner + outer link set and replace it with a conventional link that is assembled with a chain tool. If you don't plan on frequent chain removal and installation, then a non-master link setup makes more sense.

never ive had my sram pc-1 chain for 8 months and countless miles...il get it checked today at the lbs..i take care of it and it runs super smooth so il replace it when it breaks

hahahahhaa


ftw

All these people who say they'll wait for the chain to break usually end up breaking more than just the chain... Darwin awards all around!!!

I do what TT does but with the park CC - 2

that's true. i had a cheap KMC 400 series chain and that thing popped after 3 months of riding. bent 2 spokes in my back wheel and had to have my lady pick me up. that was a little hit on the ego for a night/day

but i'm slowly starting to up my tools. a chain measure will be soon, after some bb tools..

On the geared bikes I only replace if I notice detrimental shifting. I'm a bit more cautious with the narrow 10sp stuff since I've seen a few of those snap during rides. But on the ssfg bikes I don't see the need to regularly replace. I've never seen a chain fall or snap on a ssfg under normal use.

I've broke 3 chains over the past 12 years on my Dyno Zone and have only ever had to replace my tires, tubes, and chains and never had a broken bone in my life. Been in plenty of crashes (usually from trying to do a jump that is just to far/high for me), but never had a crash or major failure from a chain. You can usually tell if your chain is to the point of breaking and any time I am getting ready to do major riding such as a 20-30 trail ride on either a BMX or MTB I do a basic check, but other than that, I ride it till it goes and so far has never failed me. Granted, I've just started riding on my first ever road bike this week and that may change things going at higher speeds.

But are you running a brake? I was more specifically directing this toward the brakeless crowd. Think car disc brake but no rotor, all you have is the caliper....

EDIT: I just realized that's a BMX bike.... lol that's a joke for riding brakeless no offense compared to a 700C bike; unmounting and just using your feet to foot brake without wrecking is so much easier.

I usually replace mine about once a year regardless of whether is needs to be replaced....safer that way

I have a bad habit of not lubing my FG's chain as often as I should,

been riding my izumi chain for 2 years. still going strong.

I went for pretty much the entire winter But so far, so good!

Shiiiit. I lube mine once a week and clean the whole drivetrain with simple green bi-monthly.

i would hate to have the chain snap on me when i'm out of the saddle trying to get over a steep pitch...that would be bad