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I got a cheap one at dicks when I got my first bike with a presta valve 3 years ago.
still works and it sits outside all the time |
I have bought Time ROC ATAC pedals for with my Chrome Pro shoes, I'm currently in the process of buying proper cycling shoes for longer rides. Should I buy SPD shoes and ride with those or should buy SPD SL shoes and swap pedals for longer rides (once per week I'd think)?
Or can I buy SPD SL shoes and put my (SPD compatible) Time cleats on them until I can buy a second bike and have separate bikes for commuting and touring? |
Originally Posted by TijmenK
(Post 15430556)
I have bought Time ROC ATAC pedals for with my Chrome Pro shoes, I'm currently in the process of buying proper cycling shoes for longer rides. Should I buy SPD shoes and ride with those or should buy SPD SL shoes and swap pedals for longer rides (once per week I'd think)?
Or can I buy SPD SL shoes and put my (SPD compatible) Time cleats on them until I can buy a second bike and have separate bikes for commuting and touring? |
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 15430185)
Was it really a Fuji pump with Nishiki stickers?
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Originally Posted by Kayce
(Post 15431131)
No you cannot put any 2-bolt cleat on a 3-bolt shoe.
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Originally Posted by jpsawyer
(Post 15432587)
Depending on the shoe you can. Some road shoes come with hole patterns for both 3 bolt cleats and 2 bolt cleats.
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I had a pair of Gaernes that had 2, 3 and 4 bolt patterns.
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Originally Posted by Kayce
(Post 15435891)
Which?
These come immediately to mind because I saw them on an ad while browsing Craigslist. Diadora actually has one of two other "Road Shoes" that are compatible with 2 and 3 bolt cleats. |
Originally Posted by Mumonkan
(Post 15429950)
should i get a lezyne floor pump? opinions/reviews?
my crappy walmart pump sucks and airing my tires at 430 am isnt the best with my compressor |
Originally Posted by Kayce
(Post 15435891)
Which?
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Originally Posted by prind0
(Post 15436060)
http://www.diadora.com/sports-cyclin...er-2_29_46_325
These come immediately to mind because I saw them on an ad while browsing Craigslist. Diadora actually has one of two other "Road Shoes" that are compatible with 2 and 3 bolt cleats. |
local on CL is selling a brand new deda crononero low bullhorn and cinelli pista stem combo for 100$ firm. I cant tell if im actually getting a deal on this given that prices online come to about 100 not counting shipping, tax, etc.
should i? |
should i buy a brooks for my commuter and begin the process of tourifying it?
the 25 year old knockoff turbo is really chafing my ass (both literally and figuratively), the downside is its gonna cost about 70% of the total cost i have into the bike already yolo? cant believe i just said that. |
Originally Posted by RAISEDBYWOLVES
(Post 15440296)
local on CL is selling a brand new deda crononero low bullhorn and cinelli pista stem combo for 100$ firm. I cant tell if im actually getting a deal on this given that prices online come to about 100 not counting shipping, tax, etc.
should i? |
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 15443320)
Not unless you enjoy being uncomfortable.
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Should I get a 650c fork and front wheel for my Kilo TT for a more aggro bike? Also should I convert to threaded for the retro/hipster points?
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Originally Posted by spRICE
(Post 15447651)
Should I get a 650c fork and front wheel for my Kilo TT for a more aggro bike? Also should I convert to threaded for the retro/hipster points?
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Originally Posted by spRICE
(Post 15447651)
Should I get a 650c fork and front wheel for my Kilo TT for a more aggro bike? Also should I convert to threaded for the retro/hipster points?
2. Unnecessary unless you need a different stem length and/or rise. |
Originally Posted by spRICE
(Post 15447651)
Also should I convert to threaded for the retro/hipster points?
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Originally Posted by spRICE
(Post 15447651)
Should I get a 650c fork and front wheel for my Kilo TT for a more aggro bike? Also should I convert to threaded for the retro/hipster points?
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All the hipsters in Davis won't know what hit 'em.
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I want to go 650c because even with a slammed stem my bars are even with my saddle. I couldn't get saddle to bar drop if I wanted it (which I do). The reason I mention threaded is because I am in the process of trying to win a carbon 650c threaded fork on eBay. I think I will just let go of this idea though :thumb: Thanks for talking some sense into me!
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Originally Posted by spRICE
(Post 15448474)
I want to go 650c because even with a slammed stem my bars are even with my saddle.
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As a serious question, what would be the negative effects of putting a 650c on the front of a 700c bike? And don't just say it will mess up the handling; I want specifics.
edit: http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/x...psc3904b19.jpg Not how it is set up currently. Now the saddle is further back and I'm using the drops. |
Originally Posted by spRICE
(Post 15448491)
what would be the negative effects of putting a 650c on the front of a 700c bike?
. I would save the money you are getting for a fork, keep the kilo as is, and find a bike with more agro geo. bar-to-saddle drop looks 'hella' dope but it isnt all that comfy. And switching from your current set up to the normal foot and a half of drop may just ruin your riding experience |
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