Yes. It will look good.

should i get new wheels of a23/novatec/lasers (less than half the weight of my current wheels)? or should i get new thomson seatpost/stem/s300 cranks?

All of the above. ;)

Wheels are a much more substantial upgrade.

yeah i think wheels would make most sense, as id want to get a new saddle too and i feel like thats gonna take forever

but then theres the pompino...god help me

bikes = crack

Should I gear down from 48/14 to 48/17?

48/17 and 48/18 are nice ratios. 48/14 does not sound like a nice ratio.

Prolly should.

Depends, how hilly is your area? I run a comfortable 50/17, and am actually considering going to 50/16 because my area is so flat.

Pretty much completely flat aside from a few short hills.

Hmm. That jump to 48/17 would be a noticeable difference. I don't really enjoy spinning those small gears as much as some. But why not try it? In the end, you can always go back if you don't like it.

I do sometimes run 48/17, and it isn't all that bad (for reference).

About how fast can you get on 48/17 before you start spinning out?

Should I sell this:
http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/IMG_1996.jpg
To get a Kilo WT?

Yes, to hairnet.

do want. Dammit, I just finished my Fuji (fully geared, guys, sorry) and now my Panasonic MTB in waiting (really only needs wheels though)

I don't wanna sell her, but I've made the unfortunate realization that she's not the most utilitarian of bikes...

n+1

Should I buy this for $50 and make it into a CX-style bike with big ass tires?

http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/bik/3310066812.html
http://images.craigslist.org/5L35F75...a47ec715f1.jpg

how much $ do you estimate in putting into it? i think that green is hot

i think about projects like this all the time and then realize id be spending like 300 on just making it what i would want

then it stays on CL

I know I'll put entirely too much money into it, and I honestly don't know how much I'll ride it, but I really would like to option to get off road/into the snow this winter. I know I won't beat on my 722, and sure as hell not my Tarmac. On the other hand, once I put $300+ into it, I probably won't want to beat on it either.

Figure I could probably find some older STI shifters(assuming it has a Shimano 7-8spd group) on eBay for less than $100, new stem for $10-40, hood rat or Civia bars from Scrod for $24-$28, Lizardskins tape for $24, I'd swap the Spoon saddle from my 722 onto it and get a Turbo for my 722, eventually some MTB pedals and shoes, new tires for ~$50, etc etc.

Yeah, too much.

edit: The reality is that I can get an new, entry level Specialized MTB from work for less than I'd put into the GT to make it the way I want it. I keep flip-flopping because I'm really unsure.

im gonna say get the new one

i feel like it just wouldnt be as worth it once youre putting that kind of money into it
tool around with it stock and change stuff as you go along

Should I continue to ride my cracked frame instead of the frame I have that is too large, or not ride?

or sell the frame that is too large and buy something that fits?

It's up for sale, but there aren't a lot of people in central Florida looking for a fixed gear frame. That and no one seems to know what a Bareknuckle is.

ebay it.

Your bareknuckle? :eek:
What happened?

I have two, one I bought from Scrod, is a 56, same top tube as my Allez. The other I bought from guy in DC, it's a 54. The 56 has never quite fit right and after my last ride was starting to give me back problems. The 54 I bought has a small crack at the seat stay joint on the left seat stay. It was fixed by having brass brazed over it but they missed a portion of the crack. At the moment the 54 is built and hasn't fallen apart yet. As soon as the 56 sells I'm going to find another frame that fits.

Have you thought about having the repair corrected?

That's the plan eventually. I have a good friend who is a welder. The brass needs to be taken off with an oxy acetylene torch then welded. The problem is that he said it would take a few months to get around to it. The only builder near Central Florida is in Gainesville, which is quite a drive.

Step one, buy a case of beer.
step two bring your frame and the beer from step one to your friend.

Tubular vs Clincher

I will be riding it mainly on the road and to-from class.

The wheelset I'm looking at is offered in both tubular and clincher.
Tubular weighs 1790g and costs $445
Clincher weighs 1960g and costs $560

In the interest of weight, performance and price should I get the tubulars, or in the interest of convenience should I get the clinchers?
I've heard a few people recently talk about how tubulars aren't as big of a pain in the ass as people make them out to be. And with the $115 price difference I could make up for the fact that tubular tires are usually more expensive.