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chainline skew problem, advice?

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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

chainline skew problem, advice?

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Old 07-12-11 | 03:02 AM
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chainline skew problem, advice?

i have a bike, it is quite old, the BB cannot be switched out (non standard size in todays world) and it is a one piece chainring and crank combo. keep this in mind before suggesting i use chainring spacing bolts or get a new chainring/crankset.

i recently bought a fixed gear wheelset and it is coming in the mail (the original wheelset was a coaster brake wheelset) now i just realized the rear dropouts of the bike are either 110mm or 114mm can't measure exactly cause i haven't taken off the wheel off, while the new wheelset is 120mm hub. the frame is steel and was always planning to coldset/bend the rear stays to fit the wider hub. thought it would be easy and overlooked the chainline problem.

now without the wheels in hand yet, the chainline will be off by 5mm to 3mm depending on the rear dropout width, will this be ok? i was thinking either let it be, or asymetrically spread the dropout so to get a better chainline. or are there other solutions?
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Old 07-12-11 | 05:13 AM
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For frames with an oversized (American) BB shell and one-piece crank - which is still pretty common on beach cruisers and lower-grade BMX bikes - you can get a BB reducer kit and use any BB/crankset you want.

https://www.amazon.com/Truvativ-Ameri.../dp/B003KS00EU

Last edited by Scrodzilla; 07-12-11 at 05:23 AM. Reason: adding link
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Old 07-12-11 | 05:18 AM
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That won't be ok. I might take a better measurement first, you should be able to sight the dropout spacing reasonably enough by sliding the ruler through the spokes at the hub flange checking the space. That size sounds odd. Some pictures could be helpful here. "Spreading" the dropouts won't affect chain line at all, it's all in the hub axel spacing and Crankset/front chain ring position. Good luck.
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Old 07-12-11 | 05:21 AM
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3mm isn't the end of the world, although 5mm may induce a few tsunamis and earthquakes.
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Old 07-12-11 | 07:03 AM
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My conversions chainline is 3mm off, I have been riding it for almost a year now and I've only broken my collar bone once! I also noticed that I failed a lot more ochem exams when it was 5mm before my new crank. I guess that small difference of a chainline had a big impact on my life.
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Old 07-12-11 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
For frames with an oversized (American) BB shell and one-piece crank - which is still pretty common on beach cruisers and lower-grade BMX bikes - you can get a BB reducer kit and use any BB/crankset you want.

https://www.amazon.com/Truvativ-Ameri.../dp/B003KS00EU
pretty cool, didnt know such a product existed

not looking to spend more money to make my conversion work, how would symmetrical spreading the dropout work out? i don't my the slightly off center wheel however the chainline should be fine right?
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Old 07-13-11 | 05:18 AM
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last time my chain jumped off I ruined a tire. Peeled it back like a banana.

So, spend the cash now or later I suppose.
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Old 07-13-11 | 06:20 PM
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so wait, a perfect chainline isn't nesesary? is sheldon brown wrong?
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Old 07-13-11 | 06:23 PM
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Your cog is slipping.
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"Perfect" within a few mm is "prefectly" alright.
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Old 07-13-11 | 08:58 PM
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so this is the first time sheldon brown has been wrong, and on the fixed gear article too, for shame
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