In the market for a frame upgrade
#1
In the market for a frame upgrade
I'm very new to bike riding and since I hastily bought my used Kilo TT 2 months ago, I've already basically upgraded nearly every ****ty component from her. Some parts were necessary, others were just preference.
I am about 5'10 and I'm riding a 52 cm. I know, it's way small, but in the heat of the moment, I bought the bike and after damned near riding it every day since I've gotten it, I am starting to hurt from being in such a cramped position.
This is where I need some advice. From my own research, I've been looking around at Schwinn madisons, Soma Rushs, Pakes and Masis. Probably thinking about getting frame about 54-56. Just about all I know about these bikes are their price ranges and choice of colors (lol
)
Aesthetically, I really prefer the Masi over the rest. Pake is definitely attractive due to it's price and frankly, I would deal the 175 to Scrod just so I can have a comfortable bike to ride. My problem is that I don't really dig any of the colors available not that it's the most important thing in making my decision. I just want comfort and solidity over anything. As far as the Rush and Madison, they seem to be reliable and decently built.
I admit that I probably made a poor decision financially when it came to buying the bike. I spent a lot more money than I would have if I had just saved up and bought each component separately. However, the time I did spend experiencing and learning how to build it up and feel the ride is much more valuable to me.
I don't know a lot about frame shopping and geometry, which is why I made this thread so I hope somebody can help me out with my decision. I am in no particular rush with this because right now I just want to make a good purchase on a frame that I can use for commuting, cruising, exercise and enjoying. Something that will hopefully last me a good while.
I am about 5'10 and I'm riding a 52 cm. I know, it's way small, but in the heat of the moment, I bought the bike and after damned near riding it every day since I've gotten it, I am starting to hurt from being in such a cramped position.
This is where I need some advice. From my own research, I've been looking around at Schwinn madisons, Soma Rushs, Pakes and Masis. Probably thinking about getting frame about 54-56. Just about all I know about these bikes are their price ranges and choice of colors (lol
)Aesthetically, I really prefer the Masi over the rest. Pake is definitely attractive due to it's price and frankly, I would deal the 175 to Scrod just so I can have a comfortable bike to ride. My problem is that I don't really dig any of the colors available not that it's the most important thing in making my decision. I just want comfort and solidity over anything. As far as the Rush and Madison, they seem to be reliable and decently built.
I admit that I probably made a poor decision financially when it came to buying the bike. I spent a lot more money than I would have if I had just saved up and bought each component separately. However, the time I did spend experiencing and learning how to build it up and feel the ride is much more valuable to me.
I don't know a lot about frame shopping and geometry, which is why I made this thread so I hope somebody can help me out with my decision. I am in no particular rush with this because right now I just want to make a good purchase on a frame that I can use for commuting, cruising, exercise and enjoying. Something that will hopefully last me a good while.
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
by the way, since you are 5' 10'' you should be looking at frames in the 57-60cm range (depending on the specific geometries).
I have a 59cm Soma rush that I think is too small for me (I'm 6' 2'') if you are interested. I'm selling it for cheap.
I have a 59cm Soma rush that I think is too small for me (I'm 6' 2'') if you are interested. I'm selling it for cheap.
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
I wouldn't recommend a lo pro as the geometry is really steep and uncomfortable. Also, depending on your size, you could end up with considerable toe-overlap.
There are better frames out there for the price and with better steel.
There are better frames out there for the price and with better steel.
#9
I forgot about the wabi classic though, and I'm strongly considering that one now. Hopefully one of the frames everybody mentioned will pop up on craigslist in my size
.I haven't made a concrete decision yet, but I'd better start saving anyways.
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
The best bike ride is the one that is most comfortable. The more comfortable you are the faster and longer you can ride. I'd rather err on going large than small if I'm between a couple sizes.
#11
I agree with you on that. I won't throw your offer out the window, however. Do you mind showing me some pictures of it and maybe a quote for your asking price?
I compared the geometries just now between my current setup which I mentioned earlier is 52cm. The top tube is about 540mm, which is cramped cramped cramped. It makes my shoulders feel stained as well as numb my elbows and hands from the pressure. My arms are just kind of long I guess. It looks like the top tube length of the 59 Rush is 575 which would be a size 57 kilo.
If that doesn't work out, though, I researched the Wabi Classic and I am really really attracted to it. Going the direction of the Wabi would mean I'd have to save some big bucks, but for a wabi I'm ok with that.
I compared the geometries just now between my current setup which I mentioned earlier is 52cm. The top tube is about 540mm, which is cramped cramped cramped. It makes my shoulders feel stained as well as numb my elbows and hands from the pressure. My arms are just kind of long I guess. It looks like the top tube length of the 59 Rush is 575 which would be a size 57 kilo.
If that doesn't work out, though, I researched the Wabi Classic and I am really really attracted to it. Going the direction of the Wabi would mean I'd have to save some big bucks, but for a wabi I'm ok with that.
#12
Just smang it.
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,295
Likes: 1
From: Bellingham
Bikes: Felt F1X, Kilo WT, Dawes Deadeye
I checked out a Langster steel frame recently and it looked pretty nice. You've got a lot of options if steel track bikes in your size is as specific as you can get though :/
#13
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
I agree with you on that. I won't throw your offer out the window, however. Do you mind showing me some pictures of it and maybe a quote for your asking price?
I compared the geometries just now between my current setup which I mentioned earlier is 52cm. The top tube is about 540mm, which is cramped cramped cramped. It makes my shoulders feel stained as well as numb my elbows and hands from the pressure. My arms are just kind of long I guess. It looks like the top tube length of the 59 Rush is 575 which would be a size 57 kilo.
If that doesn't work out, though, I researched the Wabi Classic and I am really really attracted to it. Going the direction of the Wabi would mean I'd have to save some big bucks, but for a wabi I'm ok with that.
I compared the geometries just now between my current setup which I mentioned earlier is 52cm. The top tube is about 540mm, which is cramped cramped cramped. It makes my shoulders feel stained as well as numb my elbows and hands from the pressure. My arms are just kind of long I guess. It looks like the top tube length of the 59 Rush is 575 which would be a size 57 kilo.
If that doesn't work out, though, I researched the Wabi Classic and I am really really attracted to it. Going the direction of the Wabi would mean I'd have to save some big bucks, but for a wabi I'm ok with that.
Not that the Wabi complete build has bad parts, it's just that I'd find myself swapping out most of them to get the right feel and fit.
I'll pm pictures of my Rush. Top-tube is the best way to size a bike.
#14
Wabi is definitely a good way to go. If I were to go that route I would get the frameset and then buy the parts that I wanted.
Not that the Wabi complete build has bad parts, it's just that I'd find myself swapping out most of them to get the right feel and fit.
I'll pm pictures of my Rush. Top-tube is the best way to size a bike.
Not that the Wabi complete build has bad parts, it's just that I'd find myself swapping out most of them to get the right feel and fit.
I'll pm pictures of my Rush. Top-tube is the best way to size a bike.
#15
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
+1 on the wabi. Definitely a lighter frame and better steel material than the kilo. I had a classic before I got my custom Matthews. The road-like geo suited me well, but IMHO it did feel a little sluggish. Then again I had a 52cm which has a HA of 72 degrees. If you're looking at a 57cm TT length, the 73.5 degrees HA would decrease the trail, making the bike more responsive.
#16
Nice! By the way, was your wabi the one on pedalroom with the trispoke? That thing looked filthy!! Also, good advice on the angle. I think 57 would work out really well. I would definitely prefer less trail.
#17
57 is too big. I wouldn't go bigger than a 55 at your height, unless you have very long legs and very long torso (= very small head, haha)
the wabi has some very road bike ish geometry, which is alright if that's your thing - it depends whether you tell people you ride "track" bikes or "fixed gears"
personally i like track bikes, though this page is another testament to the quality of wabis
if i were you, i'd save up and buy whatever bike you want (fuji track, felt t1, trek, cinelli, etc quality aluminum shiot)
then get a longer stem and move your seat back on the rails on your kilo and use it as a junker/ bar bike
because if you just got another budget steel frame you might want to upgrade again in a year or so
the wabi has some very road bike ish geometry, which is alright if that's your thing - it depends whether you tell people you ride "track" bikes or "fixed gears"
personally i like track bikes, though this page is another testament to the quality of wabis
if i were you, i'd save up and buy whatever bike you want (fuji track, felt t1, trek, cinelli, etc quality aluminum shiot)
then get a longer stem and move your seat back on the rails on your kilo and use it as a junker/ bar bike
because if you just got another budget steel frame you might want to upgrade again in a year or so
#18
the wabi has some very road bike ish geometry, which is alright if that's your thing - it depends whether you tell people you ride "track" bikes or "fixed gears"
personally i like track bikes, though this page is another testament to the quality of wabis
...if you just got another budget steel frame you might want to upgrade again in a year or so
personally i like track bikes, though this page is another testament to the quality of wabis
...if you just got another budget steel frame you might want to upgrade again in a year or so
And as far as road geometry, he is riding the bike on the road after all o.O
#19
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Hahah yes, that was my wabi, thanks! Yeah, when i plugged in the data into a trail calculator it, the trail difference between the 52cm and 57 is roughly 5mm. The 57mm wabi also has a 6mm trail less than the 53cm kilo you're riding now.
#20
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From what I recall, the wabi was always Reynolds 725? I got mine roughly 2 years ago.
#21
57 is too big. I wouldn't go bigger than a 55 at your height, unless you have very long legs and very long torso (= very small head, haha)
the wabi has some very road bike ish geometry, which is alright if that's your thing - it depends whether you tell people you ride "track" bikes or "fixed gears"
personally i like track bikes, though this page is another testament to the quality of wabis
if i were you, i'd save up and buy whatever bike you want (fuji track, felt t1, trek, cinelli, etc quality aluminum shiot)
then get a longer stem and move your seat back on the rails on your kilo and use it as a junker/ bar bike
because if you just got another budget steel frame you might want to upgrade again in a year or so
the wabi has some very road bike ish geometry, which is alright if that's your thing - it depends whether you tell people you ride "track" bikes or "fixed gears"
personally i like track bikes, though this page is another testament to the quality of wabis
if i were you, i'd save up and buy whatever bike you want (fuji track, felt t1, trek, cinelli, etc quality aluminum shiot)
then get a longer stem and move your seat back on the rails on your kilo and use it as a junker/ bar bike
because if you just got another budget steel frame you might want to upgrade again in a year or so
I also decided that getting a 55 cm wabi frame would be best. I would totally save up for a dream bike, just not now. My main concern is being able to have a comfortable bike to commute in and the road geometry doesn't bother me that much since I'll only really be trying to get places. The Wabi seems like it would work out perfectly.
I'll miss the kilos more track style and aggressive form, but it's really not practical as far as long distance comfort goes. When the school semester starts, I'll have to deal with the soreness that my neck gets from craning my head upwards on the Kilo.
One thing I do really enjoy with the Kilo's geometry is how it feels when picking up speed. I dig how solid it is while accelerating to higher speeds. I don't have any experience with road bikes, so I really can't compare what the ride feels like.
#22
doesn't mean "road geometry" is any better for street riding
and yeah, didn't mean to say wabi wasn't great steel for a great price... it definitely is
#23
And based on this guys calculations, if memory serves correctly that is the difference between 20psi or so. So riding with a little more tire pressure would give the same trail.
#25
Brown Bear, Sqrl Hunter
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,244
Likes: 28
From: San Jose, CA
Bikes: CAAD 10 4, Dolan DF4, Fuji Track Classic
Use a fit calculator to figure out your bike size. I'm 5'11 and I ride a 54cm (50cm Kilo, which is 53 c-t). It's hard to judge fit by height alone.
Toe overlap will be hard to avoid with track geometry, so just get used to it.
If your wrists/arms/shoulders are hurting, your fitment must be way off. AFAIK there shouldn't be much weight on your arms really.
Toe overlap will be hard to avoid with track geometry, so just get used to it.
If your wrists/arms/shoulders are hurting, your fitment must be way off. AFAIK there shouldn't be much weight on your arms really.



