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Old 08-28-12 | 12:56 PM
  #5176  
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I'm having a slight issue my rear wheel (stock Kilo TT wheel), specifically the hub/axle.



The driveside of the hub/axle is fine. The non-drive side, when I attempt to remove the nut, the piece with the black arrow above it turns in the same direction, so I have to use a 2nd wrench to hold it still while I unscrew the outside nut (red arrow).

When I completely remove the nuts, leaving just the piece with the black arrow above it on both sides of the hub, I'm not sure if I'm supposed to tighten them or not. When I tighten them, hold the axle, and attempt to spin the wheel, the wheel doesn't spin. Does the piece under the black arrow have a name? The driveside one is tight and the non-driveside one is loose, allowing the wheel to spin relatively normal. It seems I can unscrew the piece, but then when I do, the metallic gray piece begins shifting left and right inside the hub when I jiggle it.

I'm wondering if the hubs and bearings need servicing as well, as the rear-wheel doesn't appear to spin as freely as it could.
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Old 08-28-12 | 02:54 PM
  #5177  
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Scrod, did you have the chance to look at some rack options for me?
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Old 08-28-12 | 04:35 PM
  #5178  
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scrod my vegan concor is loud as hell. had the original and never heard crap but the rails just sound like I'm going to snap them everytime I ride it. anything to do with the different material or anything else you can think of? so annoying
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Old 08-29-12 | 08:30 AM
  #5179  
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Originally Posted by hamfoh
scrod my vegan concor is loud as hell. had the original and never heard crap but the rails just sound like I'm going to snap them everytime I ride it. anything to do with the different material or anything else you can think of? so annoying
No idea. Is it coming from where the rails meet the body of the saddle or where the rails are clamped in the seatpost?
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Old 08-29-12 | 08:31 AM
  #5180  
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Originally Posted by ddeadserious
Scrod, did you have the chance to look at some rack options for me?
I have but everything that Soma (and everyone else besides Nitto) offers uses standard rack mounting holes on the dropouts, which your fork doesn't have.
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Old 08-29-12 | 08:33 AM
  #5181  
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Originally Posted by Pinkbullet3
I'm having a slight issue my rear wheel (stock Kilo TT wheel), specifically the hub/axle.



The driveside of the hub/axle is fine. The non-drive side, when I attempt to remove the nut, the piece with the black arrow above it turns in the same direction, so I have to use a 2nd wrench to hold it still while I unscrew the outside nut (red arrow).

When I completely remove the nuts, leaving just the piece with the black arrow above it on both sides of the hub, I'm not sure if I'm supposed to tighten them or not. When I tighten them, hold the axle, and attempt to spin the wheel, the wheel doesn't spin. Does the piece under the black arrow have a name? The driveside one is tight and the non-driveside one is loose, allowing the wheel to spin relatively normal. It seems I can unscrew the piece, but then when I do, the metallic gray piece begins shifting left and right inside the hub when I jiggle it.

I'm wondering if the hubs and bearings need servicing as well, as the rear-wheel doesn't appear to spin as freely as it could.
The hub hardware on the stock Kilo hubs is exceptionally shoddy. If your hubs are adjusted properly though, that shouldn't be happening.
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Old 08-29-12 | 08:44 AM
  #5182  
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
I have but everything that Soma (and everyone else besides Nitto) offers uses standard rack mounting holes on the dropouts, which your fork doesn't have.

/notscrod
I've heard only nice things about https://cetmacargo.com/ and it can be fitted with track forks.
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Old 08-29-12 | 11:40 AM
  #5183  
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Originally Posted by Pinkbullet3
I'm having a slight issue my rear wheel (stock Kilo TT wheel), specifically the hub/axle.



The driveside of the hub/axle is fine. The non-drive side, when I attempt to remove the nut, the piece with the black arrow above it turns in the same direction, so I have to use a 2nd wrench to hold it still while I unscrew the outside nut (red arrow).

When I completely remove the nuts, leaving just the piece with the black arrow above it on both sides of the hub, I'm not sure if I'm supposed to tighten them or not. When I tighten them, hold the axle, and attempt to spin the wheel, the wheel doesn't spin. Does the piece under the black arrow have a name? The driveside one is tight and the non-driveside one is loose, allowing the wheel to spin relatively normal. It seems I can unscrew the piece, but then when I do, the metallic gray piece begins shifting left and right inside the hub when I jiggle it.

I'm wondering if the hubs and bearings need servicing as well, as the rear-wheel doesn't appear to spin as freely as it could.
Looks like the cone (gray thing to the left of the black arrow), locknut (black arrow), axle bolt (red arrow) -- https://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html
The locknut should not be loosened / tightened willy-nilly. It's responsible for keeping the cone at a particular tightness so that the the bearings in the hub are appropriately restrained. If the cone is too loose, the hub wobbles left and right on the axle. If the cone is too tight, the wheel doesn't turn or turns "grime-ly" as your bearings are being ground down. The right tightness with smooth wheel rotation and no left/right play of the hub can be on the order of single degrees adjustments to the cone. The locknut keeps the cone adjusted that way.

It sounds like you should at least get / perform a cone adjustment. The axle bolt rotating the locknut is a separate (but possibly related) issue that I can't comment on. I can't imagine why the axle bolt would be so far to the left to be pressed up against and rotating the locknut. Hope this helps with at least putting names to metal parts.

/notscrod

Last edited by trilobite; 08-29-12 at 11:57 AM. Reason: grammar
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Old 08-29-12 | 11:54 AM
  #5184  
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Old 08-29-12 | 11:57 AM
  #5185  
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Ha! I meant to come back and edit my post with more details but got busy at the shop.

At least he was helpful.
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Old 08-29-12 | 12:13 PM
  #5186  
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Definitely one way to make an impression.
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Old 08-29-12 | 12:48 PM
  #5187  
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Originally Posted by trilobite
Looks like the cone (gray thing to the left of the black arrow), locknut (black arrow), axle bolt (red arrow) -- https://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html
The locknut should not be loosened / tightened willy-nilly. It's responsible for keeping the cone at a particular tightness so that the the bearings in the hub are appropriately restrained. If the cone is too loose, the hub wobbles left and right on the axle. If the cone is too tight, the wheel doesn't turn or turns "grime-ly" as your bearings are being ground down. The right tightness with smooth wheel rotation and no left/right play of the hub can be on the order of single degrees adjustments to the cone. The locknut keeps the cone adjusted that way.

It sounds like you should at least get / perform a cone adjustment. The axle bolt rotating the locknut is a separate (but possibly related) issue that I can't comment on. I can't imagine why the axle bolt would be so far to the left to be pressed up against and rotating the locknut. Hope this helps with at least putting names to metal parts.

/notscrod
Very helpful, thank you.
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Old 08-29-12 | 01:01 PM
  #5188  
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
No idea. Is it coming from where the rails meet the body of the saddle or where the rails are clamped in the seatpost?
haven't investigated enough to find this out. I always forget about it, then when I'm bouncing around on a rough rode or adjusting myself or going fast the thing sounds like it wants to break off
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Old 08-29-12 | 01:03 PM
  #5189  
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Originally Posted by hamfoh
haven't investigated enough to find this out. I always forget about it, then when I'm bouncing around on a rough rode or adjusting myself or going fast the thing sounds like it wants to break off
grease the rails a little.

/notscrod
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Old 08-29-12 | 05:12 PM
  #5190  
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
I have but everything that Soma (and everyone else besides Nitto) offers uses standard rack mounting holes on the dropouts, which your fork doesn't have.
Bummer. Thanks for checking for me anyways. I'll probably just grab that Nitto one, I was just hoping to find something less pricey.
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Old 08-29-12 | 05:18 PM
  #5191  
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No prob. I can get those Nitto racks so give me a holler if if you want me to order one for you.
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Old 08-29-12 | 05:29 PM
  #5192  
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Will do. I don't think anybody at my shop would even know the brand, much less where to get it, so when I get the extra money, I'll shoot you a message. Thanks man.
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Old 08-30-12 | 01:08 AM
  #5193  
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Scrod, have you been so bored that you you decided to change out your tire(s) to some new ones that you had lying around, even though the ones you had installed were just fine?
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Old 08-30-12 | 05:42 AM
  #5194  
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Originally Posted by ben4345
Scrod, have you been so bored that you you decided to change out your tire(s) to some new ones that you had lying around, even though the ones you had installed were just fine?
Occasionally, but not because I've been "bored". I like to try new thing in order to have first-hand experience with the majority of stuff sold at my shop.
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Old 08-30-12 | 07:00 AM
  #5195  
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Most merciful Scrod,

Can you play fast stuff on bass like Sublime's Date ****?

I just noticed how tough the bass line is.
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Old 08-30-12 | 07:13 AM
  #5196  
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Ha! Sublime isn't really my cup of tea but I'd be able to play it.
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Old 08-30-12 | 07:32 AM
  #5197  
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Old 08-30-12 | 07:34 AM
  #5198  
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No.
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Old 08-30-12 | 07:51 AM
  #5199  
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
Ha! Sublime isn't really my cup of tea but I'd be able to play it.
Color me impressed!
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Old 08-30-12 | 10:41 AM
  #5200  
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
No.
You're off your ass.
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