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-   -   Ask Scrod (https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/769181-ask-scrod.html)

Scrodzilla 09-19-11 08:55 PM

That depends on what you'll be doing.

Squirrelli 09-19-11 08:55 PM

Post-metalcore-surf-punk-revival for the win.

Dannihilator 09-19-11 08:58 PM


Originally Posted by Scrodzilla (Post 13250493)
That depends on what you'll be doing.

Getting ready for sprint work tomorrow.

Scrodzilla 09-19-11 08:59 PM

That's easy. Listen to Darkthrone circa 1992-94.

Sherblock 09-19-11 09:47 PM

On the Lizard Skins slippage... I've had the very same problem. I taped them up, the tape slid on the flats (of bullhorns), pretty close to the corner. Had to undo tape, which ruined a lot of it, so now have messed up bars. I'll probably try Skins again, but if the second experience is anything like the first I'm going back to Fizik.

fixedgear80 09-19-11 09:47 PM

Scrod! What kind of lights do you run on your bike after hours?

Scrodzilla 09-19-11 09:50 PM


Originally Posted by fixedgear80 (Post 13250722)
Scrod! What kind of lights do you run on your bike after hours?

Lately I've been really stoked on Knog Boomer USBs.

muckymucky 09-19-11 10:01 PM

hey scrod: i hate it say it but, is TT = Chuck Testa? T for Testa? Ojai.. its gotta be TT....
hes been busy making commercials havent seen him on lately =*( i misses

real question: light tubes or puncture resistant tubes?

jdgesus 09-19-11 10:11 PM


Originally Posted by Scrodzilla (Post 13250730)
Lately I've been really stoked on Knog Boomer USBs.

i've had two die on me in 4mo. (replaced no problem, but still)

/notscrod

fixedgear80 09-19-11 10:17 PM


Originally Posted by Scrodzilla (Post 13250730)
Lately I've been really stoked on Knog Boomer USBs.

I was just looking at those! But will they be worth the $150 for two sets (me and the miss)?

Was it the rain jdgesus?

solipsist716 09-19-11 11:31 PM

[QUOTE=Scrodzilla;13246210] Pro tip: get yourself a 2" bolt with the same threads as a standard crank arm bolt and thread it into your spindle (through the BB tool) to keep it from falling off while you're installing/removing.


GENIUS.

solipsist716 09-19-11 11:34 PM


Originally Posted by Philthy Bastard (Post 13246858)
Keith Morris, Ron Reyes, Dez Cadena, or Henry Rollins?

First and last.

Muffin Man 09-19-11 11:41 PM

how do you sig a quote?

carleton 09-19-11 11:48 PM


Originally Posted by EpicSchwinn (Post 13245890)
Can we unsticky some stuff? 10 threads is pretty ridiculous. I'm not calling out this thread specifically but I'm sure there's something up there you can drop.

+1

vw02 09-20-11 12:06 AM

bad brains and toots & the maytals FTW

Leukybear 09-20-11 02:31 AM


Originally Posted by Sherblock (Post 13250719)
On the Lizard Skins slippage... I've had the very same problem. I taped them up, the tape slid on the flats (of bullhorns), pretty close to the corner. Had to undo tape, which ruined a lot of it, so now have messed up bars. I'll probably try Skins again, but if the second experience is anything like the first I'm going back to Fizik.

Just putting in some insight.
I have lots of experience with the tape; I've always cleaned my bars, even new, with alcohol and let it fully evaporate after drying in preparation for the tape.
When it comes to wrapping, even though the package says not to stretch the tape, it can and has to be stretched slightly in order for the tape to not start unraveling (that's what happened to you I presume?). The trick with stretching it is to regulate the force you use to stretch the tape while wrapping so the tape does not outstretch and become thin while still being able to sufficiently cling itself via the underside adhesive contacting itself with the bar and the cling from the stretch.
Upon finishing, you should use the larger than usual provided adhesive strip to wrap the entirety of it's width on the tape itself at the top with even pressure (consult above so you do not compress the underlying tape as well; ~~the adhesive strip does not need to make contact with the bar to ensure maximum hold on the tape.

Scrodzilla 09-20-11 05:44 AM


Originally Posted by Sherblock (Post 13250719)
On the Lizard Skins slippage... I've had the very same problem. I taped them up, the tape slid on the flats (of bullhorns), pretty close to the corner. Had to undo tape, which ruined a lot of it, so now have messed up bars. I'll probably try Skins again, but if the second experience is anything like the first I'm going back to Fizik.

Leuky's got it. Also, make sure at least a little bit of the adhesive strip on the backside of the tape is making contact with the bars and not just sticking to the tape.


Originally Posted by muckymucky (Post 13250770)
hey scrod: i hate it say it but, is TT = Chuck Testa? T for Testa? Ojai.. its gotta be TT....
hes been busy making commercials havent seen him on lately =*( i misses

real question: light tubes or puncture resistant tubes?

I have no idea what you're talking about mucky, but I've been wondering where TT has been too.

Tubes are tubes. If you're using a good tire, you don't need a puncture-resistant tube. However, latex tubes suck because air leaks through them much too fast.


Originally Posted by muffin man (Post 13251018)
how do you sig a quote?

Click 'reply with quote', copy the quote and paste it into the 'edit signature' tab in your settings.


Originally Posted by carleton (Post 13251026)
+1

Help me out here c - what should we unsticky (besides this thread)?

prooftheory 09-20-11 07:00 AM

I have a brake-line routing question. I am trying out using a cross lever for the first time and I would prefer to use it on the right hand. But the place where the cable goes in the caliper brake is also on the right side and I can't figure out what the best way to route the cable is.

I have a very old and nasty brake with the pull on the left side but I can't seem to find a new one. Do they make them anymore?

I could mount the left brake lever backwards on the right hand side but this will get rid of some of the hand space on the tops. I am using 31.8mm bullhorns with an aero top so there actually isn't much room to move the brake levers around.

Should I just try to route the cable going left back to the right side or should I just resign myself to using a left hand brake?

Scrodzilla 09-20-11 07:07 AM

Dude, my head is spinning. Stop overthinking it and run the cable from the lever to the caliper. Regardless of what side your lever is on and what side the brake pulls from, it will work fine.

prooftheory 09-20-11 07:09 AM

Okay, thanks Scrod.

Scrodzilla 09-20-11 08:51 AM

No prob.

BTW - I unstuck this thread. I'm sure it won't be hard to find. :D

carleton 09-20-11 09:12 AM


Originally Posted by Scrodzilla (Post 13252044)
No prob.

BTW - I unstuck this thread. I'm sure it won't be hard to find. :D

Unstick mine, too if you want.

Scrodzilla 09-20-11 09:19 AM

Ok. I think yours will most likely be on the first page all the time anyway.

homebrewk 09-20-11 12:21 PM

Dear Scrod,

What's the secret to becoming a good wrench? I have heard everything from "it's all about experience" to "it's all about the tools." What's your opinion? Any tips?

Scrodzilla 09-20-11 12:35 PM

It's a lot of both. The best mechanic can only do so much with crappy tools, just as someone without much experience won't know what they're doing just because they have every tool imaginable in front of them.

A lot of lbs "mechanics" are like that ****ty bar band we've all seen that can barely get through a few cover songs - but they all have pro gear like they're ****ing Aerosmith. Or the overweight choadie with the full-carbon race bike and shaved legs who can't keep up an 18 mph pace on a 10 mile ride.

My dad - who was a lifelong gearhead and car mechainic - taught me early on that you're never going to learn anything without getting some dirt under your fingernails.

homebrewk 09-20-11 12:55 PM

I couldn't agree more. Thanks!

andrizzle 09-20-11 01:05 PM


Originally Posted by Scrodzilla (Post 13253248)
My dad - who was a lifelong gearhead and car mechainic - taught me early on that you're never going to learn anything without getting some dirt under your fingernails.

Some of the best advice right there. GET YOUR HANDS DURTY!!!!!

Street rider 09-20-11 01:17 PM

Scrod, if I wanted to work in a bike shop, is there any sort of 'requirement' that I need to have? Like in an auto shop, you generally have to be a certified mechanic, is it the same thing for bike wrenching?

Scrodzilla 09-20-11 01:23 PM

Find a shop where the owner isn't a jerk and the employees are cool (which may be the hardest part). Start hanging out a bit, explain that you want to learn how to work on bikes and ask for an internship. Chances are you'll be the guy who fixes flats and takes out the garbage for a while but if the shop is cool and you're into learning things, you'll gain some experience and maybe even make a bit of money.

Sure, you can go to school and become certified - which may help you land a job at shops where it's a requirement - but I know more than a few techs who have completed school and like to talk a good game but are total idiots when it comes to actually working on bicycles.

homebrewk 09-20-11 01:25 PM

That's what I'm planning on doing; there is a great shop in our area that sponsors out cycling team and I'm hoping for an internship soon. Paid or not it will be an awesome experience.


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