Alright thanks for the help!

Hi!

My stock Kilo TT has 48t/16t chainring/cog. I would like to upgrade the gear ratio for more skid patches, and lower ratio. I'm thinking upgrading the chainring to 45t will be the best bang for the buck. In my search, I found the Shimano Alfine S501 45t chainring for $26+$9shipping. http://goo.gl/e80jkv It's very hard to find a 45t chainring.

Would the above chainring work with my stock chain, and stock crankset? Any downside to having an odd number chainring tooth count?
Save Up to 60% Off Fixie | Fixed Gear | Track Bicycle | Mercier Track Bikes | Singlespeed Bikes - Kilo Stripper

Thank you!

I'm assuming and hoping I won't need to replace the crank bolts.

Again not scrod, the alfine chainring is 3/32, which is perfectly fine to use with a 1/8 chain, just can't use a 3/32n chain with a 1/8 chainring/cog.

The blue is much different and aside from that, I simply won't allow you to put a crappy Pake fork on a Bare Knuckle.

Fair enough :p. Thank you so much for your help.

This may be unanswerable without seeing my bike in person but...What size recessed nut do I need to fix my (rear) brake to the fork on my stock Kilo tt?

The longest one you can find.

Before this question can be answered, you first need to determine how far the brake centerbolt extends inside the fork crown. It may not be long enough to catch at least a couple of threads in which case you won't be able to use it at all, regardless of the nut length.

It will most likely work. I've installed quite a few rear calipers on the front for people. Usually a 40mm nut will do the trick - unless it's a carbon fork with really this crown walls and then, as TT says, the threaded portion of the bolt won't reach the inside of the fork. That shouldn't be an issue on your Kilo fork though.

I'm running the stock fork. Thanks guys!

How twitchy is the Rum Runner? I'm looking for a budget steel frame to replace my 722ts, and the Rum Runner seems to be an option, but the geometry seems like it'll be a lot twitchier. Also, thinking of ordering it paired with the lugged steel fork on your shop, which, though only a 3mm difference in rake, would decrease the trail by another 3mm. I'm hesitant to take an already twitchy bike and decrease the trail by another 3mm.

It's got track geo so I guess it could be considered "twitchy".

I've built up quite a few Rum Runners for customers using our lugged fork and honestly don't notice any difference in handling between that and the Pake fork.

And if you get one that's too long, you can always cut it down. Go with Scrod's advice though, let's face it, he knows what he's talking about whereas I know how to unscrew my screwups ... usually.

Thoughts on the park tools home truing stand? I'm looking to buy a stand to keep my wheels trued and learn to build wheels. I trust park tools on their quality but am I going to regret just not buying their higher end stand?

Park Tool TS-8 Home Mechanic Wheel Truing Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LNW2OS..._0PHGub16XVD6M

I've ordered a few for customers and they're good. If you're just using it occasionally at home, it's all you'll ever need and nothing you don't.

Scrod, what can you tell about miche primato pista hubset? I've heard some talks that they aren't that suitable for street riding.
Same question about bombtrack drome hubset.

Thanks.

What would make a high flange, sealed bearing hub "not suitable for street riding"? Whoever said that is an idiot. I know several people (including my wife) who have been using them on the street for years.

I've never seen the BT hubs in person but I'm sure they'd also be fine.

Thanks.

Scrod - first question for me so go easy on me if you can!

Carbon fork w/ carbon steerer. Is it necessary to have a spacer above the stem or can the stem be at the top? 2009 Jamis Sonik is the bike, street ridden commuter because I can. Will see no track use.

It's probably fine without one but I typically put at least a 5mm spacer on top of the stem to ensure the stem's clamp making full contact with the steerer.

I am not sure what size is on there now, but I have two smaller spacers that are the equivalent height. Going to split the difference with one under and one over. Just looking for a little rise out of it. Swapping the stem simply cannot happen because the stem is straight ******. :) Thanks for the answer.

So what you are saying is that this is OK?

Before:
http://i.imgur.com/2STH4Zg.png

After:
http://i.imgur.com/Wa53ihe.png

Yup. :thumb:

I don't recommend using more than 30-35mm worth of spacers under the stem on a carbon steerer though.

I am above your recommended amount then. I believe that the fork is uncut (not sure as I bought the bike used). I am 6'0" with a very freakishly long torso, and a 30" inseam. I am lucky that I got my height, but unlucky that I got the geometry of a turtle. The bike is a 58cm frame. There are currently 2 1/4" worth of spacers under the stem right now, which equates to about 57mm of spacers.

Does this add unnecessary stress on the steerer tube? I don't crank hard on the bars or on the bike that much as I ride it for fun and commute to work on the street. I do not track or race the bike at all.

Yes. Read the third paragraph here and if you like your face the way it looks now, cut your steerer.

Thank you for that article. Now, from what I am reading, they are talking about TT bikes, where you would rest quite a bit of your body weight on the bars/pads/steerer tube. Regardless, I just sent an inquiry to Jamis to see what they recommend. The last thing that I want is a catastrophic failure on the bike.

The first thing you need to determine is your desired rise/drop of the bars relative to the saddle height. After this is determined, you cut the unnecessary excess of the steerer tube above the stem. If you really need more than 30-35mm of spacers below the stem, then buy a new stem that has more rise to get the desired handlebar height.

This.

but...but.. his stem is straight ******..

Oh ****, sorry. Never mind.