Scrod,

Saddle mounted bottle cages, yay or nay?

Just like anything else: Try it. If you like it, keep using it. If not, don't.

I'm going for swag here not so much for utility. So from a swag standpoint, does this have style points?

:popcorn

I'm beating around the bush here. I'm just going to give it to you straight. How do I get fixie babe's to swarm? Grow a cool beard? Wear tight pants?

I don't think anyone has ever looked at saddle mounted bottle cages and thought "swag." Except maybe triathletes.

Swag comes from within. One cannot acquire it. In this sense, you have already failed at looking cool.

Is that an upside down heart or a ballsack?

I think within I have plenty of swag, it's the outside where the problem lies.

Definitely an upside down heart.

I like it. It says I'm playful and approachable. The other option would be vulgar and off-putting.

just watch mash videos and do everything they do

profit.

This.

Thanks a ton for the help with the Omniums question; installed them with no problems.

Do you happen to know which size the seatpost binder bolt needs to be for a Bare Knuckle/Does retrogression sell them online? (I took a look at the site and couldn't find any)

You need a 19mm bolt. We don't have any in stock at the moment but some Sugino seatpost binder bolts will be here early next week.

You should be able to get a suitable binder bolt at any bike shop that doesn't totally suck.

Hey Scrod,

What happened to the Alpina track forks you used to sell? I see even the Dolan website only has the UD with brake hole option available.

I have an early Aventon Mataro with the original all aluminum fork. I think they all come with the CF/alloy-steerer fork now. I haven't had any problems with mine (yet) but I know a ton of people did. I'm honestly not too concerned, since I only ride mine on the track, and all the failures I've heard about happened on the street. Do they have any sort of preemptive warranty replacement for the newer style fork, or should I wait until I faceplant at the velodrome?

You answered your own question. Dolan no longer makes the undrilled F4.

Scrod,

I am rebuilding an old Raleigh Sprite into a fixed gear. I'm feeling confident about everything I'm going to do, except for the bottom bracket. I don't know exactly what year the bike is, so I can't give you specifics. But do you know, if not, know of where I can look for a bottom bracket for the Sprite?

Edit: I live in San Diego, I could always bring it into the shop.

The Sprite is a tough one because the BB threads are 26tpi, which is specific to old Raleighs and not compatible with modern English-threaded BBs.

Aside from Phil Wood (which may be more than you want to spend on a conversion), I'm not sure of anyone else making a replacement BB with that threading. If the cups/bearing races themselves are in decent shape, you could always just replace the spindle with whatever length you need for your new crankset.

I wonder, would one of those threadless bottom brackets like velo orange (and I'm sure others) sells work? Probably more that he spent on his whole frame though.

Like this?

Grand Cru Threadless Bottom Bracket - Bottom Brackets - Components

That would definitely work. I always forget about those things...

iirc SKS makes one too but its even more dollhairs

If the cups are in decent shape, you can keep them and just find a spindle that works for your chosen crank. That's what I did for my daughter's frankenbike:

http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/frankenbike/left-side.jpg

http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/franken...inal-rside.jpg

That's exactly what I said in the part of my post you didn't quote. :)

Rear Triangle talk
 

Hey Scrod,

Lately I've been paranoid that my rear wheel isn't perfectly straight in the dropout. This is important for chain-line and general smooth rolling obviously.

I line it up with seat tube and that's that for now.

Is there a way to verify if my seat stays and drop outs are straight and kosher? This is something that would be useful when buying a new frame obviously. I know that a little imperfection is likely and the stays compress when you tighten the axle nuts. I also ever so lightly tightened up the cone nuts/lock nuts on both sides of the rear hub with cone wrenches and eye balled the axle of the hub to make sure its even.

I guess i'm just interested if you eyeball it or if there is an effective way to measure to see how proportioned the rear triangle of a bike is built.

Some bike shops have tools that measure whether or not everything on your frame is centered and straight.

There's more to centering a wheel than making sure the axle is even on both sides. A wheel sitting off-center in a frame will most likely need to be re-dished to center the rim on the hub.

scrod,

is there some kind of distribution issue with the excess components free wheels? can't seem to find a 17t in stock anywhere.

thanks.