I've had luck gently hammering a slightly larger Torx driver into the the head of the bolt and backing the bolt out very slowly. You usually only get one shot doing that and it will either work or it won't.

There have been a couple of cases where I've cut the bolt as Regulatori suggests. Use a reinforced Dremel cutting wheel (the black one with a wafer pattern underneath).

I may be able to come up with something. What rake are you looking for?

Honestly, I don't really know. I got the bike as a frame only and built it up with the only used fork I could come across that had a long enough steerer (finding something with a 236 mm steerer took a while and I didn't know about axle to crown measurements at the time). It was used and I don't know what was on there originally, so I'd just be guessing. Based on pictures, what I currently have looks a hell of a lot like the Tange 7B CrMo replacement fork from the mid 90's (which had a height that was close to what I quickly measured last night with my tape measure - but no listed fork rake that I could find).

I've read somewhere that if you use longer fork legs, you need more rake to keep the handling the same and it handles fine now with 365 axle to crown, so I'd guess low to mid 40's? The only fork that fits my needs that I've been able to find is the nashbar threaded carbon one,
and that's fine, but I just saw your note above about a satin fork with the columbus dove on it looking prettier than generic carbon weave, and I completely agreed. I didn't know if you happened to be aware of other random forks that weren't listed on your site.

My frame looks like this (not mine just a random image I stole from the web):

so it would look fine with a black or chrome (or carbon) fork.

If nothing comes to mind right away, don't worry about it, I can just go with the nashbar generic one. I just figured there would be a better chance you'd know of a fork (or where to look) than I would. I don't have a problem hunting if I get pointed in the right direction.

Thanks.

Would this work?

Not seeing anything. Sorry for the huge photo, I'm crap at resizing.

Click on the word "this" in his post for the product; there's no picture inline to see there.

Yeah that would probably be fine, but require me to switch over to threadless. I could consider doing that.

Scrod, what was it like opening up a shop like Retrogression, one specializing in fixed gear, single speed and track bikes? What kinds of obstacles, problems, interesting quirks, etc? Was it difficult getting the name of there, and generating buzz and a reputation in the scene?

Those are all legitimate questions but I'd never have the time to sit here typing all the answers on a forum. Maybe someday I'll write a book.

Maybe you need to hire a biographer.

We should probably just make a reality show about the day-to-day shenanigans of this shop. I bet it would be pretty good to watch.

I'd bet Tejano Trackie would be your biographer for the low, low price of a retrogression kit.

Hey Scrod, I just ordered some rims, spokes, and nipples from you. I ordered the Sapim polyax nipples because that's what I always do (all 4 times I've built up wheels anyway) and am going with the Lasers. Sapim makes a big deal about their polyax being able to tilt in the rim more than other spokes so there is less bending/stress on the spokes. Is that benefit real or just marketing hype that's nice in theory but doesn't really do anything?

I'm not too sure if it's just hype or if it's actual science. As a rule, I just like to use the same brand of spokes & nipples on a wheel build to help keep my OCD from flaring up and ruining my day.

oops. sorry for like, every time you build a wheel for me or sell me spokes and nipples.

I'm going to be all over one of these once they are released.

The best is when Angie screams from the back room, "Aaaaargh!!! Mike Russiello mixed brands again!!!"

lmfao. just doin my part to make sure things stay weird in there

In your experience, do various bottom bracket heights specific to fixed gear bicycles actually make an impact? Would the difference between a 45 mm and 58 mm BB drop actually make any noticeable improvement in avoiding pedal strike? Of course assuming the same crank length and wheelset.

I've never had pedal strike on my Bare Knuckle, which has a BB drop of 45mm. Not sure what the BB drop is on a Leader 725 but back when I rode one, I had pedal strike a few times when cornering and it wasn't fun.

Pedals are a big factor as well, not just BB height and crank arm length.

Q Factor plays a huge role too, I've discovered.

Is there any reason not to file the little nubbins that keep your wheel in place after you flip the quick release off a fork with aluminum or steel dropouts - other than being lazy? I've never had a fork before that had them (and have yet to die as a result), but apparently all the new ones I'm seeing available these days have them. I suppose it's a catch 22 in that I wouldn't want them because I'm too lazy to do the extra unscrewing of the QR after I flip the cam, but that might mean I'm too lazy to dig out the file and get rid of them.

The lawyer lips? File 'em off!

Except don't do it if the fork ends are chrome plated. The chrome will peel off and it'll look horrible.

Huh, that's something I didn't consider. If the edges of chroming do get exposed, will something like painting them with clear nail polish (or actual paint), keep a bubble or peel from spreading? It is a good point though, I'll have to keep that in mind.