Chain tugs are a pain in the ass and you don't need to "tighten the hell out of" your axle nuts like a gorilla to keep your wheel from slipping.

👍 gotcha..!

Sweeeet. I can't wait!

Despite that.. I really started to want a set of these:



You think I would need the 5mm or 8mm for the Sonik dropouts?




I like the way they look.

Measure your dropouts. My guess is they're thicker than 5mm.

Not Scrod, but I have 2 cents I'd like to throw your way. Those things are way, way, way, way, way, more of a pain in the ass than they are worth. After using them a few times you will wonder why you didn't see the many obvious drawbacks (like I missed as well) before buying them. Then you will throw them in the trash can. You will not feel bad about the money you wasted because you hate them so much. Then you will laugh at them as you bury them with more trash.

That's my opinion too. In fact, if someone comes into the shop to have us fix a flat and they've got any kind of axle-mounted chain tensioner, we charge them more. We call it the tug tax.

Seriously!?? I have used cheap $1.00 tensioners and I know it takes longer to remove a wheel but I can always fine tune it easier with those.. I just semi tighten the nuts, fine tune the tire clearance and then tighten the nuts - it's always worked pretty well..

hmm.

It appears you have a kung fu magic touch. The nice ones should work just as well, or better, than the cheap ones. Proceed and enjoy.

I have a Surly Tugnut on one of my bikes, but only because I'm using a quick release skewer with a hollow axle hub, and cannot get the QR tight enough to keep the wheel from slipping in the dropout. One good thing about the Tugnut is that you don't have to unscrew it to remove the wheel or readjust it again when installing the wheel.

You also refused to cause a stink and get your money back after getting ****ed over by Unknown Bikes not once, but twice - proving you don't always do things the right way.

Is it that hard to hold the wheel tight with your foot while you tighten the nuts?

As absolutely crazy as it sounds, it's even easier to hold your wheels straight using your hand.

But you need both hands to hold the tensioners in place, so the don't move backwards, or shift up and down, or tilt, and to make sure the axle doesn't move fore/aft inside the gap in the tensioner hole.

It's a team effort. F' 'em.

Ok okok I'm going to call my friend Vince and see if he has some tensioners

I'm not sure if this is the place to ask about RG stuff but I saw someone else mention a product from the site. I was wondering if the Norwegian Track Metal shirts will ever be maki

If you're asking if more of that shirt will be made, nope.

Dear Scrod,

Will I be mocked and ridiculed for wanting to put a disc brake on my commuter? Would you trust those bolt-on caliper mounts or get the lugs brazed on? Thanks.

-Brakeless Biker

Nothing wrong with having a disc brake. If it was me, I would just get a disc compatible fork and be done with it knowing that it was done properly.

The bolt-on disc brake adapters I've seen are pretty janky. They might be okay for occasional use but if it were my bike I'd probably just use a different fork.

i didnt even know they made bolt on disc adapters. people get paranoid when you weld them onto a frame

Pretty sure the only place you can even buy them is on eBay. Tweakers tend to use them on cobbled together "rat-rod" bikes in these parts, if that tells you anything.

Dear Scrod,

What's the tightest you'd run your spokes with Dura Ace 7600 high-flange laced radially?

And how about the 2-cross spokes in the rear? I presume it would be best to go a little tighter back there?

Using a Park Tensiometer and the CX-Ray spokes I got from you.

Got it, problem now is that I need to find a threaded 1" that has disc caliper mounts...not an easy task.