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Quick question about rattle-canning components.

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Quick question about rattle-canning components.

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Old 11-09-11 | 08:06 PM
  #1  
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Fakenger
 
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Quick question about rattle-canning components.

Hey all.

I am going to spraypaint some alloy components on my beater conversion the color black. There are quite a few different "shades" of black available like gloss, flat, semi-gloss, and satin. If any of you folks have rattlecanned bikes or components, which did you use and which black gives the best results?

Thanks!
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Old 11-09-11 | 08:09 PM
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what finish do you want? gloss, semi, satin, or flat?
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Old 11-09-11 | 08:15 PM
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For a nice glossy finish, I recommend flat.
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Old 11-09-11 | 09:26 PM
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I personally wouldn't rattle can anything other than a frame, and that's if it is a beater. The components on a bicycle move too much and will eventually just scratch or peel anyway, looking much worse in the end. Buttttt if you are going to rattle can something, I've found it takes the least amount of work to make flat or matte paints look decent. Painting is mostly prep work, start by sanding the components, not only to get them smooth, but to rough up the surface so the primer will stick. This is key, as well as keeping a clean surface and area, so wipe down everything before shooting any paint. After you've got your primer down (wet sanding between coats) and have let it dry completely get your color. There are a wide range of aero-paint qualities too, so that is also something to consider. When applying be sure to use long smooth strokes, going just past the end of whatever component you are painting. Stopping early will leave you with an uneven coat and make it that much harder when you're wet sanding. Again wet sand between coats, the more coats of paint you get down and the smoother you get it the better the results will be. I usually am between 5-7 coats before it's said and done. The clear coat you use also plays an important role in the finish you end up with. Choose the appropriate gloss, matte, or flat clear. I would recommend something that is a ''hard clear coat''. After the paint has cured you can cut and buff if you feel the need. Take your time if you're serious about the outcome... I've gotten some pretty decent results with a quality aerosol paint can.

If you don't really care, screw everything I just said and leave everything on and just paint the whole bike in a zig-zag pattern (don't do this), Have fun!

Last edited by Doomride; 11-09-11 at 10:33 PM.
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Old 11-09-11 | 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Doomride
The components on a bicycle move too much and will eventually just scratch or peel anyway, looking much worse in the end.
this
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Old 11-09-11 | 11:45 PM
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its gonna look like ****
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Old 11-10-11 | 12:14 AM
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+1 to above posters.

I wouldn't rattle can anything but a frame; and only if it's a beater bike. Factory paint jobs (assuming you cheap out) tend to last much longer and wear better; so unless you REALLY don't like the colour or your bike's REALLY f***ed up, don't spray it.

The result of rattle can will look good if you're the type that brings bikes inside the house and takes immaculate care / doesn't ever crash / doesn't lock it up anywhere, then it'll stay looking good for longer.. but elsewise, it's not wise.

EDIT: To answer the actual question, though, I sanded / wire wooled it down pretty good to show bare metal. 2 coats of primer, 2 coats of red, 1 coat of satin black and a coat of matte black.

This is on my beater bike that I hardly ride, though. My experiences weren't the best so the amateur worksmanship shows in the nicks and croonies, but I do like the way the paint wears with my bike. If it gets chipped it shows a little bit of red first before showing metal. Personal preference.
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Old 11-10-11 | 12:58 AM
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Old 11-10-11 | 04:31 AM
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I used home interior black paint---semi-gloss--- coz don't dgaf on the beater. Twill wash off in rains but doncares.
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Old 11-10-11 | 08:50 AM
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Best results don't come from the type of finish but from the type of paint. Use something like Rustoleum professional enamel or Duplicolor. Anything else won't last more than a few weeks without chipping into oblivion. You'll also need to use a clear topcoat. Krylon Crystal Clear works very well. Do two coats of clear over your paint and it'll look pretty good and be reasonably durable. Make sure it dries in a well-ventilated area for 2-3 weeks.

Of course, you still have to do a lot of prep work like mentioned above.
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Old 11-10-11 | 09:04 AM
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what specifically do you want to paint black?

one great solution for a lot of different things is plasti-dip. spray it on, its a semi-rubberized coating that is super durable, but you can peel it off if you're so inclined. results will certainly be based on what you actually want to paint though...
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Old 11-10-11 | 09:46 AM
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Yeah,. on second thought I think Ill just get some cheap black parts. I've rattle canned a frame before with all the prep work and meticulous paint spraying, drying, wet sanding, etc. I dont think its worth the time and effort for this, especially since i have way less free time these days (im a new daddy).

Thanks all for your input!

/thread
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