Clips/Straps
#2
yoked
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 3,594
Likes: 1
From: S
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
really cheap?
MEC plastic cage + nylon straps. $10 including straps and taxes.
MEC steel cage + leather straps. $15 including straps and taxes.
But the easiness to adjust depends on how you thread your straps. I can adjust my nylon straps faster than anyone can their hold fasts.
MEC plastic cage + nylon straps. $10 including straps and taxes.
MEC steel cage + leather straps. $15 including straps and taxes.
But the easiness to adjust depends on how you thread your straps. I can adjust my nylon straps faster than anyone can their hold fasts.
#5
Brown Bear, Sqrl Hunter
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,244
Likes: 28
From: San Jose, CA
Bikes: CAAD 10 4, Dolan DF4, Fuji Track Classic
really cheap?
MEC plastic cage + nylon straps. $10 including straps and taxes.
MEC steel cage + leather straps. $15 including straps and taxes.
But the easiness to adjust depends on how you thread your straps. I can adjust my nylon straps faster than anyone can their hold fasts.
MEC plastic cage + nylon straps. $10 including straps and taxes.
MEC steel cage + leather straps. $15 including straps and taxes.
But the easiness to adjust depends on how you thread your straps. I can adjust my nylon straps faster than anyone can their hold fasts.
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
Though with shipping costs in consideration, it'd be probably better to just hit up a LBS and get some decent quality ones for $20~ if your LBS has such.
#9
really cheap?
MEC plastic cage + nylon straps. $10 including straps and taxes.
MEC steel cage + leather straps. $15 including straps and taxes.
But the easiness to adjust depends on how you thread your straps. I can adjust my nylon straps faster than anyone can their hold fasts.
MEC plastic cage + nylon straps. $10 including straps and taxes.
MEC steel cage + leather straps. $15 including straps and taxes.
But the easiness to adjust depends on how you thread your straps. I can adjust my nylon straps faster than anyone can their hold fasts.
- Deal with the limitations of velcro straps being hard to adjust.
- Deal with flimsy nylon straps
- Invest (meaning actually spend money) in some quality straps like Toshi or something of similar quality. Not the cheap, single ply leather stuff.
- Invest in clipless pedals and shoes. As they say, once you go clipless, you don't go back to clips and straps. This is true for most people.
Clipless is a superior system in several ways, but does involve you changing shoes. The longer you spend on the bike (ride time) the more valuable they become. It's like this:
RIDE TIME: 5 minutes -------------------- 30 minutes --------- 1 hour ------ 2 hours --- 2+ hours
PEDAL TYPE: Platform --- Clips & Straps --- MTB Pedals --- Road Pedals ---------------------------
This isn't an exact correlation. It's a thing to express a point.
Basically, if you are riding clips and straps for 15 minutes or less at a time, don't complain. if you are riding clips and straps for more than 15-30 minutes at a time, don't complain...upgrade.
Again, these aren't hard-n-fast rules. Just something to think about.
#10
Brown Bear, Sqrl Hunter
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,244
Likes: 28
From: San Jose, CA
Bikes: CAAD 10 4, Dolan DF4, Fuji Track Classic
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
I've never seen a fixed gear rider adjust their velcro straps while "on the go" at a reasonable speed. In fact, the downtime of them awkwardly fumbling down at every revolution to adjust would be probably made up if you adjusted it then jumped on the bike. That being said, I guess it's more reasonable for SS... but I don't really see the need for straps like Hold Fast if you're riding SS.
Regular clips + straps, again, depends on how you thread it. I adjust and fasten mine as I'm riding my FG to work or to school because I change my shoes often (casual shoes, dress shoes, runnerse, converse, tricking shoes) and I don't have any problems.
#12
The space coyote lied.



Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 48,726
Likes: 10,983
From: dusk 'til dawn.
Bikes: everywhere
Yep, if you've got 'em threaded right, clips and straps are easy to adjust on the go. Just grab the strap at the top of your stroke and it'll tighten on the downstroke. I used to run straps with buttons but I'd too often get the straps too tight because I'd have too good a grip on the button, plain strap end tends to let go when the straps at just the right tension for me.
Before the stoplight, just reach down and tap the buckle real quick.
Before the stoplight, just reach down and tap the buckle real quick.
#13
Your cog is slipping.



Joined: May 2009
Posts: 26,053
Likes: 100
From: Beverly MA
Bikes: EAI Bareknuckle
#15
Your cog is slipping.



Joined: May 2009
Posts: 26,053
Likes: 100
From: Beverly MA
Bikes: EAI Bareknuckle
I adjust my doubles while riding too. I just think the OP has a different mindset - especially considering that typical straps are much easier to adjust "on the go" than any velcro-type straps ever will be.
#16
Veteran Racer


Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 11,854
Likes: 913
From: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Bikes: 34 frames + 80 wheels
Yes, on the track where you are not constantly starting and stopping. As you roll off on the infield or apron, you tighten the straps just once. Then, as you exit the track, you loosen the straps just once. When riding in urban traffic with lots of starting and stopping, this is too much of a hassle IMO. Sometimes you have to stop suddenly, and don't have time to loosen the straps to remove your foot, which results in a tipover. Anyways, I use clipless on all but one of my FG bikes, which uses wide velcro straps and bmx platform pedals so I can use normal shoes. I don't adjust the velcro straps, just have them loose enough so I can get my shoes in. It's not as secure as clipless, of course, but good enough for normal around town use.
#19
Veteran Racer


Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 11,854
Likes: 913
From: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Bikes: 34 frames + 80 wheels
Not everyone can do sweet tarck stands.
#21
A track stand isn't necessary. Just keep them loose enough to be able to pop your foot out. It results in the loss of a little power transfer, but on the street do you really need full power?
#23
Veteran Racer


Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 11,854
Likes: 913
From: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Bikes: 34 frames + 80 wheels
When sitting I agree, however, when standing such as climbing or starting off from a stop, it does make a significant difference.



