This thread:

I have to ask; when you put the cog and lockring on, did you grease the threads first? They should easily spin on all the way with just your fingers. Don't use a chain whip or lockring wrench until everything is snug and as tight as you can get them with your fingers.

ive blown the threads off a hub that was properly set up before, twice. not the best quality stuff but not bargain stuff either. now i just ride a front disc hub with a drilled out ss cog

+1 they oxidize and seize very easily, last time I removed an aluminum lockring the drive side of the hub sheared off with it.

the screw driver hammer thin can work if done properly, but for 10$ why bother.

There's no "proper" way to use a screwdriver and hammer to install a lockring, just as there's no way to "properly" cook a steak using a hair dryer.

Just like there's no "proper" way to paint a wall with a waffle.

I had my LBS order me up a Dura Ace lockring, a Parktool lockring wrench, and yes I always liberally grease up my threads with Philwood grease.

Diapereater: So you build up a rear wheel using a road rim and a front hub made for disc brakes? How in the world do you measure and drill the holes in the cog? If they were off by even .1 of a millimeter your chain tightness would be ackward. Are you just using cogs made for free hubs? Pics?

Nevermind. https://www.63xc.com/jasom/milldisc.htm explained everything for me. This is my next project. THANKS guys!

Why bother with all that? You can buy pre-drilled cogs.

What's the point of that? Getting the chainline straight I'm guessing?

What's the point of what, exactly?

Have you never seen a bolt on cog?

who's on first ?

Actually, I haven't

I guess it takes the place of a lockring too.

Just get some brakes, they're only $600.00.

sig-worthy

I had a similar problem in the past when I unknowingly stripped out a hub; it seemed to seat properly but one day when I tried to skid it loosened up and almost threw me over the bars.

I would stick with EAI or Shimano Dura Ace cogs/lockrings. They don't cost that much more than the budget cogs/lockrings and you get way better quality. It's especially vital that you stick with a high quality cog/lockring combo if you're running brakeless. An extra $20 or $30 isn't worth slamming into the side of a car.

I personally run a Dura Ace 16t cog and lockring and haven't had any issues as of yet nor do I expect to any time in the future. Plus, it's way more fun knowing you have the confidence of a quality drivetrain!