I'm building up a new fixed gear bike and I am thinking about using a quick release rear wheel. With bolt on wheels, I can walk the wheel to get the proper tension and centering on the bike. I am wondering how difficult is getting the proper tension and centering with the quick release. Are there any tips to help with the tensioning?

You'll never get tension.... You can't tighten it down enough with QR's. The axle will pull pretty much instantly.

The issue with a quick release rear wheel on a fixed gear is the wheel slipping and not being able to be clamped tight enough, I believe.

The two statement above are false. You can indeed get them tight enough to hold the wheel but they need to be quality QR's, like shimano. Modern QR's can have problems holding a wheel in either a track end or horiz dropout if they don't grab enough because they are designed for vert dropouts. The internal cam models like campy and shimano have a solid grip surface and enough torque to hold a SS or geared wheel in place.

for my next fixed wheel I want something with a hollow axel, like the Novatech, so I can use a QR.

works on a single speed, but not on a fixed gear as noted above.

Edit: I guess it depends on the rider, but some of us track people will torqe a bolted on rim out of place on a hard jump.

I'm sure you are as hard core as you say, but that is probably a function of how tight your bolts are and the material of your track end. The torque being applied a track hub with track gearing will always be less than the torque applied to a cassette on the large cog. The lower your gearing the higher the torque.

BFSSFG Hogwash. QR is fine as long as it is a quality enclosed cam model.

That is great but I doubt it came that way. Looks like a road axle in a track hub. Cool none the less.

Cynikal is spot on, especially with his point about torque, which confuses a lot of people. A larger rear cog and smaller chainring is going to put the most torque on a hub.

Lots of SS mountain bikers use track ends or horizontal dropouts and don't have slippage, or just use a tugnut. I have been fine with horizontal dropouts and a quick release racing ss cyclocross, as long as it is an internal cam. External cams aren't worth their weight in horse ****.

Campy did sell hubs like this until QR was banned for track

Yes, I know that an internal cam qr is needed, but thanks for saying in case I didn't. I should have mentioned that in the op.

Sheldon (pbuh) mentions that using the quick release is easier to install but he doesn't explain the technique to get the right tension and centering. Every single speed I have ever worked on either had nuts or had a spring loaded chain tensioner (not fixed) with vertical dropouts.

I'm a little hesitant about buying the qr hubs without knowing the difficulty of getting the proper tension. If it is a problem, I will go with a bolt on (shouldn't that be "nut on"?) but I'd rather have a qr with this bike.

Consider myself informed, thanks.

I think it's actually easier to tension a QR hub. You can do it by using both hands, one on either side, just pull back and tighten. You don't need the other hand with a wrench just use you right hand to tighten the QR.

Ok then. I'll give it a go.

Just grab the wheel next to the seat tube with one hand and use your hand as a wedge to move the wheel into a good position and tighten the QR with your other hand, takes about 3 seconds.

I see what you are saying. Yeah, that should work out well.