I have a frame that (I feel) is in need of replacing; the fork's steerer tube needs some fixing, and the paint job on the main frame is bad. (Don't spray paint your frame!)

So, I'm in the market for a new frame. Unfortunately (or not), I have a threaded headset (miche advanced) and a nitto stem that I would like to use. Should I stay with a threadless frameset (which I plan buying a new stem if I go threadless) or use my new parts on a threaded build?

It's gets complicated. I have a bike with a threaded stem, so I could use the Nitto stem, but what could I do with the headset? (I would need a shim as well.) And what should I buy for a new frame, if at all? What are some favorites?

I was looking at the Kilo TT's, and the lugged Kilo Team framesets. How are those? Or a Rumrunner? Lo Pro, IRO, what?

A guy is also selling a bareknuckle for $250 on CL, with BB and headset installed. Is this too good to be true? It's also a little far away from where I live, but I could make the trip. And then we're back to the parts I already have and what to do with them.

Done

I currently have a kilo tt. and it's serving me well. i haven't had any experiences with the others you suggested
and with a threaded set up maybe the lugged kilo would be a nice touch to the classicist theme?

There's literally two topics on the main page discussing this, one is even called "Frames"

Sorry about that, but I have a different question, because I have a different situation than the other two posts. However, I'd love to hear your opinion

If you get a frame with a 1 1/8" head tube, you cannot use your Nitto quill stem. There is no such "shim" that will allow you to do so.

In all actuality, I have no idea what you're really asking here.

The kilo tt is a good option, I wouldn't buy an iro though I think the dude who runs the business is on hiatus or something. There's a few people on here that complained about needing to return stuff and iro's stellar customer service is no more. They won't answer on fb or email. Just letting you know, I really like kilo's I don't own one though.

Oh, I'm talking about replacing a stem I have on another one of my bikes. I would need a shim for 25.4-26.0 bar clamp size.

Frame choices, and another CL option: bareknuckle at $250.

Bareknuckle for 250 is a pretty sweet deal if it's in good shape.

LOL, don't tell that other fellow that in the other thread, he's about to drop $ 695 plus S&H on that same frame. I want to see his face when he comes to the stark realization that a $ 700 EAI BK can be had for $ 170 less than a brand new Surly Steamroller ? Maybe a Sam Kinison moment ?

A low price doesn't always mean it's a good deal. How do you know it would even be Santaria's size?

It probably has a dented tube for that price ? I saw one on line, complete bike for $ 350, it had been customized that way.

https://desmoines.craigslist.org/bik/2979901801.html

55cm EAI Bareknuckle track frameset. It is in used condition. (1 miniature ding on the top tube). Included with the frameset is:
Black chris king headset (great condition)
NEW Thomson set back seatpost (new)
NEW rear weinmann dp-18 (brand new)
front 650c Velocity deep-v (great condition)
2 Brand new Gatorskin tires

I also have a rear ZIPP 404 road wheel if interested for extra cash.



The miniature ding is probably something that is more cosmetic and a Pake top tube pad covers that up while protecting it for further dings ? Even still $ 350 for a $ 695+ S&H frame ?

Maybe a used brass knuckle (aluminum for $ 260) ?

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac...983823156.html

I wouldnt base an entire build on any headset or stem, both items are easily replaced. buy the frameset you want! if you can use any components in your spare parts box then cool for you but otherwise let them go.

55cm EAI Bareknuckle track frameset. It is in used condition. (1 miniature ding on the top tube). Included with the frameset is:
I didn't even know the BK came in 55cm. I thought it was 52-54-56 ect.

It doesn't.

Silly boys, the lil ding in the top tube pushed the 56cm down to 55cm, duh!!

LOL, with air in the tires or flats ? Then there's running 650c's vs 700c's ?

It also depends on the room temperature as the metal contracts and expands based on how hot or cold it be in the room

Also the elevation at which the frame was made. The tubes get longer the higher you go up.

You guys are being too hard on someone that provides a bikes measurement. Some places list the EAI's by seat tube, this fellow provided the top tube length. BFHD ? A 54 cm seat tube is a 55 cm top tube model frame.

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...rkgeometry.jpg

This website identifies them as 55 cm too, BFHD ?

https://superbbicycle.com/tag/euro-asia-imports/

You're right dude. Actual measurements don't really mean anything.

In what world do you live where frame sizes are defined by top tube length?

Bike Forums in High Definition? Cool, lemme check my resolution.

The same world everyone else lives in ? 2 guys with a 32 inch inseam, one guy has a shirt sleeve length of 32/33, the other 34/35, maybe the handlebar reach for a top tube dimension means more to one than a seat tube that is more a matter of where the seat post is raised or lowered ?