Chain tension?
10-10-12 | 11:36 AM
#5
Magnets, how do they work
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,299
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From: Buffalo
Fixed? You don't want a hell of a lot of play or you risk throwing your chain. This is a big "uh-oh."
Single-speed? You have a little more leeway.
Regardless, c'mon man. Just pull the wheel back in the dropouts til you have very little movement in the chain, without it being too tight.
Single-speed? You have a little more leeway.
Regardless, c'mon man. Just pull the wheel back in the dropouts til you have very little movement in the chain, without it being too tight.
10-10-12 | 11:40 AM
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
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From: CID
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
Essentially, I do this:
The bit on checking chain tension for the full cycle of the cranks is important, too, so that the chain isn't too tight or too loose in spots: https://sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html#tension
Originally Posted by Saint Sheldon
Notice how freely the drive train turns when the chain is too loose. That is how freely it should turn when you are done, but with as little chain droop as possible.
10-10-12 | 11:45 AM
#8
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From: Mass
Bikes: 2004 Bianchi Pista
Every used chain has a tight spot and a loose spot. This is said to be from the imperfection of every chainring. You want to find the tight spot and have that give about 3/4 of an inch of wiggle room.
OR
If you want to roll like me, go inbetween the tight and loose spot and give that middle spot a full inch of wiggle room.
OR
If you want to roll like me, go inbetween the tight and loose spot and give that middle spot a full inch of wiggle room.
10-10-12 | 12:12 PM
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2011
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From: las vegas
Bikes: purty blue undefeated II 57cm
sometimes i drink to much.
tonight is not the night, as i am only slightly intoxicated.
But yes, slide your wheel back till its tight then adjust, apparently a taught chain is bad. Listen to the folks above me!
tonight is not the night, as i am only slightly intoxicated.
But yes, slide your wheel back till its tight then adjust, apparently a taught chain is bad. Listen to the folks above me!
10-10-12 | 12:23 PM
#13
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Its obviously not night in Vegas, you sure you arent drunk?
10-10-12 | 07:19 PM
#16
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 851
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From: SO-CAL
Bikes: Litespeed Teramo, Argon 18 Road, Fuji Mt Fuji Pro MTB, Fuji Track Pro FG, & Cannondale Quick CX Cross
To OP: if you have track ends, I'd highly recommend chain tensioners.
As a noob I struggled to find the delicate balance between too tight/not enough, soon after I learned to "walk the wheel" method and got pretty good results right away but then by chance I came upon a Surly tuggnut, sure they a little overpriced but u can find cheaper alternatives.
What these beauties do for you, besides no having to super-torque bolt nuts is that you can tension your chain in a very precise manner, almost effortless and in time record. Set it and forget it.
As a noob I struggled to find the delicate balance between too tight/not enough, soon after I learned to "walk the wheel" method and got pretty good results right away but then by chance I came upon a Surly tuggnut, sure they a little overpriced but u can find cheaper alternatives.
What these beauties do for you, besides no having to super-torque bolt nuts is that you can tension your chain in a very precise manner, almost effortless and in time record. Set it and forget it.
10-11-12 | 09:57 AM
#18
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 570
Likes: 1
From: Portland, Or
To OP: if you have track ends, I'd highly recommend chain tensioners.
As a noob I struggled to find the delicate balance between too tight/not enough, soon after I learned to "walk the wheel" method and got pretty good results right away but then by chance I came upon a Surly tuggnut, sure they a little overpriced but u can find cheaper alternatives.
What these beauties do for you, besides no having to super-torque bolt nuts is that you can tension your chain in a very precise manner, almost effortless and in time record. Set it and forget it.
As a noob I struggled to find the delicate balance between too tight/not enough, soon after I learned to "walk the wheel" method and got pretty good results right away but then by chance I came upon a Surly tuggnut, sure they a little overpriced but u can find cheaper alternatives.
What these beauties do for you, besides no having to super-torque bolt nuts is that you can tension your chain in a very precise manner, almost effortless and in time record. Set it and forget it.
10-11-12 | 12:53 PM
#19
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 636
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What a weird thread.
On chain tension, street riders tend to like their chains very tight both because they think it lets them skid faster and because they think they will drop a chain otherwise. On the track, we mostly ride with as much slack as we can get away with. Again, it's personal preference, with some riders preferring more tension, some less. What less tension gets you is a smoother feeling with less jerking of your legs (important for high cadence high power racing) and less wear on the equipment. Frankly I never found that high tension ever improved one's ability to skid or trackstand.
And as for a chain derailing, you can have about an inch of vertical play in the midpoint of the chain and not have a derailing problem. I always test it, and you can, by taking the edge of your track nut wrench and pushing against the side of the chain where it engages the chainring, as you're rotating the cranks slowly forward. If you can't push the chain off with a prybar, do you think it'll come off on its own? No way. Frankly, most people who have a chain come off either messed up the process entirely or had their rear wheel slide forward in the stay ends so all tension was gone.
As for tensioners, yes, they can work, but you don't need them and can learn to adjust your wheels just fine. They cause the spacing in the back to be ever so slightly greater, so putting your rear wheel on is more of a pain. My track bike is lined up on a rail with fifty others at every training session or race night, and nobody has chain tensioners.
On chain tension, street riders tend to like their chains very tight both because they think it lets them skid faster and because they think they will drop a chain otherwise. On the track, we mostly ride with as much slack as we can get away with. Again, it's personal preference, with some riders preferring more tension, some less. What less tension gets you is a smoother feeling with less jerking of your legs (important for high cadence high power racing) and less wear on the equipment. Frankly I never found that high tension ever improved one's ability to skid or trackstand.
And as for a chain derailing, you can have about an inch of vertical play in the midpoint of the chain and not have a derailing problem. I always test it, and you can, by taking the edge of your track nut wrench and pushing against the side of the chain where it engages the chainring, as you're rotating the cranks slowly forward. If you can't push the chain off with a prybar, do you think it'll come off on its own? No way. Frankly, most people who have a chain come off either messed up the process entirely or had their rear wheel slide forward in the stay ends so all tension was gone.
As for tensioners, yes, they can work, but you don't need them and can learn to adjust your wheels just fine. They cause the spacing in the back to be ever so slightly greater, so putting your rear wheel on is more of a pain. My track bike is lined up on a rail with fifty others at every training session or race night, and nobody has chain tensioners.
10-11-12 | 02:32 PM
#20
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From: PHL
Bikes: Litespeed Catalyst, IRO Rob Roy, All City Big Block
As for tensioners, yes, they can work, but you don't need them and can learn to adjust your wheels just fine. They cause the spacing in the back to be ever so slightly greater, so putting your rear wheel on is more of a pain. My track bike is lined up on a rail with fifty others at every training session or race night, and nobody has chain tensioners.
10-11-12 | 03:32 PM
#21
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 241
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From: Baltimore MD
I like to keep a decent amount of play in mine. I heard some drunk motorcycle mechanic say "loose is fast" referring to chains during a party - so I like to pretend it applies to bicycles as well.
In short, cardboard shines like cake shoes.
In short, cardboard shines like cake shoes.
10-11-12 | 07:32 PM
#23
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: The OC
Bikes: 2010 Mercier Kilo WT, 2011 Specialized Tarmac Pro SL3 Red
how i tension the chain: wedge my hand in between the wheel and the seat tube to push the wheel back. Get your hand as far down as you can bear without hurting yourself. Some frames have less clearance than others, so your hand may have to rest higher on the seat tube, but same idea. When the chain is firm and wheel is centered, lock down the lugs w. your free hand. Easy.
10-14-12 | 08:31 AM
#25
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From: Brooklyn,NY
how i tension the chain: wedge my hand in between the wheel and the seat tube to push the wheel back. Get your hand as far down as you can bear without hurting yourself. Some frames have less clearance than others, so your hand may have to rest higher on the seat tube, but same idea. When the chain is firm and wheel is centered, lock down the lugs w. your free hand. Easy.
I also use this method.