explain to me how the BODY OF MY HUB split
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 503
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From: Durham NC
Bikes: Kilo TT, Felt z85, Kona Unit 2-9, 90s Schwinn 9.3 with Noleen fork
explain to me how the BODY OF MY HUB split
the area of the hub body onto which the lockring threads has SPLIT away from the cog threads. how in the HELL?!
Kilo TT stock hub. I'll post a pic here in a minute.
Thank god for my brake as this happened on a hill.
Maybe santa needs to bring me a wheelset for Christmas, eh?
Kilo TT stock hub. I'll post a pic here in a minute.
Thank god for my brake as this happened on a hill.
Maybe santa needs to bring me a wheelset for Christmas, eh?
#3
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 503
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From: Durham NC
Bikes: Kilo TT, Felt z85, Kona Unit 2-9, 90s Schwinn 9.3 with Noleen fork
Define improperly tightened lockring? i used a lockring tool and got it nice and snug.
I'm right there with you on the "cheap hub" though. Ironically the threads are still fine.
I'm right there with you on the "cheap hub" though. Ironically the threads are still fine.
#4
The Viceroy
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 298
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From: NSB,Florida
Bikes: SE PK Ripper FG,Trek Classic Steel, Free Spirit FG, Raleigh Pointe, Centurion Sport DLX, Schwinn CrissCross
I'm going to say it was over tightened and put too much stress on the body and something had to give. Hence the whole breaking at the threads. If you got it from BD have fun with the warranty thing since I'm pretty sure they say to check lock rings and other stuff every ride. Don't know how well they enforce that.
#6
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Durham NC
Bikes: Kilo TT, Felt z85, Kona Unit 2-9, 90s Schwinn 9.3 with Noleen fork
#7
Your cog is slipping.



Joined: May 2009
Posts: 26,053
Likes: 100
From: Beverly MA
Bikes: EAI Bareknuckle
Here you go.
Put on my new VeloSolo 17T cog today. Nice piece! Pretty gold anodizing. My LBS went full gorilla on tightening the original parts, tho, so had to rotafix to get the old cog off.
Get everything tightened up, go out for a ride. Holy **** i'm flying, these guys were right about a bigger cog being faster cos you spin better... then i turned around. Tailwind became headwind. Still feels better 1T bigger up hills tho.
Then I tried a skid, sickening YARP from the cog against the (loose, after i rode on it) lockring and no skid. Sprint to tighten, coast, retighten.
Get everything tightened up, go out for a ride. Holy **** i'm flying, these guys were right about a bigger cog being faster cos you spin better... then i turned around. Tailwind became headwind. Still feels better 1T bigger up hills tho.
Then I tried a skid, sickening YARP from the cog against the (loose, after i rode on it) lockring and no skid. Sprint to tighten, coast, retighten.
#8
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 503
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From: Durham NC
Bikes: Kilo TT, Felt z85, Kona Unit 2-9, 90s Schwinn 9.3 with Noleen fork
so the lockring being loose after i got the cog tighter via riding caused the hub to fail? the lockring was subsequently tightened up since then. i see your point tho, that area of the hub was stressed repeatedly.
If anything i would have thought the threads would fail before the hub cracking.
If anything i would have thought the threads would fail before the hub cracking.
#10
Banned.
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 2,975
Likes: 29
From: Winnipeg
Bikes: Fiori Fixie powder blue w/ granny bars
so the lockring being loose after i got the cog tighter via riding caused the hub to fail? the lockring was subsequently tightened up since then. i see your point tho, that area of the hub was stressed repeatedly.
If anything i would have thought the threads would fail before the hub cracking.
If anything i would have thought the threads would fail before the hub cracking.
I need pics to fully access the failure mode.
#11
Your cog is slipping.



Joined: May 2009
Posts: 26,053
Likes: 100
From: Beverly MA
Bikes: EAI Bareknuckle






