SS/FG conversion with eccentric ENO hub help
#1
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SS/FG conversion with eccentric ENO hub help
I have a 700c hybrid with vertical dropouts converted to SS in December and I have 500+mi on this bike now as a SS. I want to complete the SS/FG conversion. I am using a RD as a tensioner. The chainring/cranks are the bike's stock Shimano 2203 52/42/30, I am using the middle 42T. It's 130 BCD 5-bolt.
Currently the rear wheel has an eccentric ENO hub (first generation - threaded for the fixed side - no splines) with a 16T freewheel. Before this I was using a standard road hub with a single splined 15T cassette cog and spacers.
Ideally all I'd need to buy is an unramped 5-bolt 130mm BCD 47T or so chainring and some single bolts so I could try fixed, remove the RD, and shorten the chain, but don't know if I need a new BB/crankset/etc. The chainline right now is not quite straight (with spacers on a road hub it was better). Is there a way to figure out if this is doable?
Also, according to the White Industries website, the chainline on the fixed and free sides of the hub are different (43 vs 47.5 respectively). How the heck do you keep the chainline straight when you flip the wheel?
Finally, I have the (probably silly) idea to put on a dual fixed cog for flat land riding with 2 teeth difference (most of my riding is reasonably hilly). How would this affect chainline if I tried to use this? Would it even be possible to do with the adjustment range of the eccentric hub (as opposed to proper horizontal dropouts)? Would it be easier to get a Miche cog holder system for the fixed cogs?
Thanks.
Currently the rear wheel has an eccentric ENO hub (first generation - threaded for the fixed side - no splines) with a 16T freewheel. Before this I was using a standard road hub with a single splined 15T cassette cog and spacers.
Ideally all I'd need to buy is an unramped 5-bolt 130mm BCD 47T or so chainring and some single bolts so I could try fixed, remove the RD, and shorten the chain, but don't know if I need a new BB/crankset/etc. The chainline right now is not quite straight (with spacers on a road hub it was better). Is there a way to figure out if this is doable?
Also, according to the White Industries website, the chainline on the fixed and free sides of the hub are different (43 vs 47.5 respectively). How the heck do you keep the chainline straight when you flip the wheel?
Finally, I have the (probably silly) idea to put on a dual fixed cog for flat land riding with 2 teeth difference (most of my riding is reasonably hilly). How would this affect chainline if I tried to use this? Would it even be possible to do with the adjustment range of the eccentric hub (as opposed to proper horizontal dropouts)? Would it be easier to get a Miche cog holder system for the fixed cogs?
Thanks.
Last edited by idc; 02-18-13 at 10:10 PM.
#2
Crankset chainline: 45mm https://bike.shimano.com.sg/publish/c...3.-type-..html
As far as the ENO's ability to take up chain slack, I kinda doubt it could accommodate a 2-tooth difference in cog size. I have an ENO on my mtb and from memory it doesn't seem like it has sufficient range of motion for that kind of change in gearing. Although I have never tried that and I could be wrong...
However, wanting to flip your wheel plus have a dingle cog sounds like you want a lot of gearing options. Fixed gear doesn't seem to be the best choice here.
As far as the ENO's ability to take up chain slack, I kinda doubt it could accommodate a 2-tooth difference in cog size. I have an ENO on my mtb and from memory it doesn't seem like it has sufficient range of motion for that kind of change in gearing. Although I have never tried that and I could be wrong...
However, wanting to flip your wheel plus have a dingle cog sounds like you want a lot of gearing options. Fixed gear doesn't seem to be the best choice here.
#4
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Yeah I figured 2 teeth wouldn't be too big a deal if the eccentric is supposed to sort of replicate a horizontal drop.
So no solutions I guess? No one bothers flipping an ENO hub?
#5
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The ENO hub has 15mm of horizontal movement. Each additional tooth moves the axle 1/8" (3-4mm). Both these facts are found on Sheldon's fixed gear conversion page https://sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html
So yeah, should be no problem taking up 8mm of movement for 2 teeth. If you have a rear brake you will need to move the pads as the center of the wheel arcs around.
I just bought a 2nd gen ENO hub but I'm not flipping it.
So yeah, should be no problem taking up 8mm of movement for 2 teeth. If you have a rear brake you will need to move the pads as the center of the wheel arcs around.
I just bought a 2nd gen ENO hub but I'm not flipping it.
#6
Phil bottom bracket... adjust the crank inboard/outboard.
If you want to flip it, just get a crank/chainring set up that splits the difference. Either way you are off a few mm but the sun will rise.
Srlsy - I obsessed about this stuff a few years ago when I started riding the ENO. Eventually I forgot about it and just rode the hell out of it.
If you want to flip it, just get a crank/chainring set up that splits the difference. Either way you are off a few mm but the sun will rise.
Srlsy - I obsessed about this stuff a few years ago when I started riding the ENO. Eventually I forgot about it and just rode the hell out of it.
#7
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The ENO hub has 15mm of horizontal movement. Each additional tooth moves the axle 1/8" (3-4mm). Both these facts are found on Sheldon's fixed gear conversion page https://sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html
So yeah, should be no problem taking up 8mm of movement for 2 teeth. If you have a rear brake you will need to move the pads as the center of the wheel arcs around.
So yeah, should be no problem taking up 8mm of movement for 2 teeth. If you have a rear brake you will need to move the pads as the center of the wheel arcs around.
Phil bottom bracket... adjust the crank inboard/outboard.
If you want to flip it, just get a crank/chainring set up that splits the difference. Either way you are off a few mm but the sun will rise.
Srlsy - I obsessed about this stuff a few years ago when I started riding the ENO. Eventually I forgot about it and just rode the hell out of it.
If you want to flip it, just get a crank/chainring set up that splits the difference. Either way you are off a few mm but the sun will rise.
Srlsy - I obsessed about this stuff a few years ago when I started riding the ENO. Eventually I forgot about it and just rode the hell out of it.
My middle chainring is 45mm so I think that should be ok. It'll be between 2.0-2.5mm off.
#8
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Crankset chainline: 45mm https://bike.shimano.com.sg/publish/c...3.-type-..html
As far as the ENO's ability to take up chain slack, I kinda doubt it could accommodate a 2-tooth difference in cog size. I have an ENO on my mtb and from memory it doesn't seem like it has sufficient range of motion for that kind of change in gearing. Although I have never tried that and I could be wrong...
As far as the ENO's ability to take up chain slack, I kinda doubt it could accommodate a 2-tooth difference in cog size. I have an ENO on my mtb and from memory it doesn't seem like it has sufficient range of motion for that kind of change in gearing. Although I have never tried that and I could be wrong...
#9
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15mm should give 4 max teeth, but obviously the right chain length when the hub is rotated at it's limits will come into play. Either way, should be fine for 2.
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