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Filing Horizontal Dropout Clarification

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Old 05-04-14 | 12:20 PM
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Filing Horizontal Dropout Clarification

Hey all, I've read a few threads stating that when filing dropouts, to be sure to file the bottom one. I am a bit confused by that, however. Does that mean you file the "bottom" of the top dropout, or the "top" of the bottom dropout? Does that make sense? If the axle sits on an uneven bottom dropout, would that not cause the wheel to be uneven?

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Old 05-04-14 | 12:37 PM
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I am trying to make sure I understand you before I give advice. Do you want to file a dropout because your wheel is not lining up evenly between the seat stays?
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Old 05-04-14 | 12:42 PM
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My rear axle does not slide into the dropout of a brand new frame, appears to be a bit of paint buildup.
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Old 05-04-14 | 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jbedry
Does that make sense?
No, put the file away.
Dish the wheel properly & install in the frame so it's lined up evenly between the chainstays with the correct chain tension/chain line & tighten the axle nuts. Use a half-link if necessary.

-Bandera
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Old 05-04-14 | 12:49 PM
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I think I may have given the wrong idea... so I'll start from the top.
My rear wheel's axle is too big for my rear dropouts. I've heard on new frames that this is not uncommon, sometimes do to excess paint on the dropouts after coating. People have suggested filing down the excess paint, so my question is which side of the droupouts do I file? My confusion was with the suggestion that it is the bottom that needs to be filed. So I am wondering if I file the "bottom" of the top dropouts or the "top" of the bottom dropouts.
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Old 05-04-14 | 12:53 PM
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Gotcha. File the top of the bottom tang.

When the bike is weighted, the bottom of the top tang will rest on the axle, so do NOT file there, as that will cause the misalignment you correctly suspected would occur.
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Old 05-04-14 | 12:57 PM
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Great! I understand now. Thanks Squid!
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Old 05-04-14 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jbedry
I think I may have given the wrong idea... so I'll start from the top.
My rear wheel's axle is too big for my rear dropouts. I've heard on new frames that this is not uncommon, sometimes do to excess paint on the dropouts after coating.
If excess paint is preventing axle insertion taking the least destructive path to remove it is wise, unless accidental damage & rust don't matter to you. Take a deep breath & think it through. Deft & careful strokes w/ a keen flat file may well answer but an x-acto knife might w/ patience be a better tool. It's paint, not metal you want to remove.

BTW: Lousy QC on a new frame, wonder what else slipped by.......

-Bandera

Last edited by Bandera; 05-04-14 at 01:01 PM.
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Old 05-04-14 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by jbedry
Great! I understand now. Thanks Squid!
No problem. Just curious, what kind of frame and wheel?
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Old 05-04-14 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by SquidPuppet
No problem. Just curious, what kind of frame and wheel?
It's a 2011 Kona Bandwagon that I've been sitting on for a few years and a Velocity wheel/formula hub.
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Old 05-04-14 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by jbedry
It's a 2011 Kona Bandwagon that I've been sitting on for a few years and a Velocity wheel/formula hub.
So we are talking about removing just a zilimeter then.
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Old 05-04-14 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by SquidPuppet
So we are talking about removing just a zilimeter then.
Yes sir. They're almost in there... just need some help.
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Old 05-04-14 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by jbedry
Yes sir. They're almost in there... just need some help.
I had a frame that had dropouts that were welded in and they were misaligned vertically by about .8 mm. That tiny bit of axle tilt resulted in the wheel being WAY crooked between the seat stays. I did the exact opposite of what you are doing to solve my poblem. Now she is laser straight.
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