normal hub to fixed?
12-24-14 | 12:19 PM
#28
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 14,153
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From: Portland, OR
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
Dylan, let me lay this out in very simple terms. Skidding a fix gear is the most abusive thing you can do to the hub/cog interface. Nothing except a quality hub and lockring will keep that cog on. Nothing. Do it right or don't skid. If money is tight, then REALLY take this advice because medical attention costs FAR MORE than a good fix gear hub.
I've only been riding fix gear for 90,000 miles and I don't skid, so maybe my opinion isn't worth much. I don't skid, not because it is as hard on hubs as I say, but because it is just as hard on knees and good ones are harder to find (and more expensive) than good hubs. But even without skidding, I consider my life to be worth enough that I will only ride fixed on quality hubs.
Ben
I've only been riding fix gear for 90,000 miles and I don't skid, so maybe my opinion isn't worth much. I don't skid, not because it is as hard on hubs as I say, but because it is just as hard on knees and good ones are harder to find (and more expensive) than good hubs. But even without skidding, I consider my life to be worth enough that I will only ride fixed on quality hubs.
Ben
12-24-14 | 12:28 PM
#30
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 14,153
Likes: 5,275
From: Portland, OR
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
I wouldn't trust Locktite Red. Best Locktite, but it is just Locktite. I used to use it to keep the erector set TA triple cranksets together. When it was time to take it apart, I have to replace a couple of screws but I would reuse the rest. I didn't use heat to get them apart, just my wrenches. I'd be dreaming to trust that stuff could keep a cog on when skidding.
Ben
Ben
12-24-14 | 12:43 PM
#31
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
NOTHING other than a proper track/fixed hub with reverse threaded lockring is reliable for holding a sprocket on when reverse torque is applied. NOTHING.
Even if you have brakes, the unreliable arrangement can injury you because you might opt to use reverse torque in lieu of the brakes, and lose time and distance before taking corrective action. Possibly the most dangerous you can put on a bike is an unreliable brake (or something you might use as one). So either use a proper track hub, or use a freewheel.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
12-24-14 | 02:42 PM
#32
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
+1) Leave it as a Freewheel 1 speed OR, Get a proper fixie Hub wheel
they are threaded twice.. Cog goes on RH thread , lock ring goes on LH thread.
OR.. [More, spending involved)
SRAM Torpedo Hub can be fixed or freewheels with a screwdriver turning a locking pin in or out..
https://www.sram.com/sram/urban/family/torpedo
Sellers, with a QBP account, Many.. this one of them
https://www.benscycle.com/p-3714-sra...Nm0RoC_lrw_wcB
they are threaded twice.. Cog goes on RH thread , lock ring goes on LH thread.
OR.. [More, spending involved)
SRAM Torpedo Hub can be fixed or freewheels with a screwdriver turning a locking pin in or out..
https://www.sram.com/sram/urban/family/torpedo
Sellers, with a QBP account, Many.. this one of them
https://www.benscycle.com/p-3714-sra...Nm0RoC_lrw_wcB
Last edited by fietsbob; 12-24-14 at 02:48 PM.
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