Custom Tandem Build 2.0. Di2/hydro double
#52
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So close now.
Ran the di2 wires, charged the system enough to update the firmware and was able to get some buzz out of the derailleurs.
Ran the di2 wires, charged the system enough to update the firmware and was able to get some buzz out of the derailleurs.
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You're getting close.
Is there enough room in your BB shell to push the Di2 wires aside to install the eccentric? Our bottom bracket has slots so that the wires are completely out of the way.
Is there enough room in your BB shell to push the Di2 wires aside to install the eccentric? Our bottom bracket has slots so that the wires are completely out of the way.
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It would also help to place the battery in the stoker's seatpost. This will allow you to run a single long wire from Junction A (or MT800 display) through the down tube and boom tube to the Junction B in the stoker's BB. The Junction B will connect the Junction A, internal battery, front and rear derailleur. The Junction B may be stuffed in the seat tube or boom tube where practical.
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If I'm not mistaken, the captain's BB shell doesn't have enough room for internal Di2 wiring. I don't think that you can cut slots in the BB shells because they may interfere with the welds. Your only option may be to drill a hole in the bottom of the down tube for the Di2 wire to exit, and another hole in the bottom of the boom tube for the wire to re-enter the frame.
It would also help to place the battery in the stoker's seatpost. This will allow you to run a single long wire from Junction A (or MT800 display) through the down tube and boom tube to the Junction B in the stoker's BB. The Junction B will connect the Junction A, internal battery, front and rear derailleur. The Junction B may be stuffed in the seat tube or boom tube where practical.
It would also help to place the battery in the stoker's seatpost. This will allow you to run a single long wire from Junction A (or MT800 display) through the down tube and boom tube to the Junction B in the stoker's BB. The Junction B will connect the Junction A, internal battery, front and rear derailleur. The Junction B may be stuffed in the seat tube or boom tube where practical.
Thanks for the comments.
The eccentric im using is the ProblemSolvers Pressfit for 24 spindle eccentric bottom bracket. It allows the bottom bracket shell to function without needing to have slotting of the BB shell. I will be using a sheet of plastic cut and inserted to keep the wires pressed into the inside circumference of the shell just in case though.
The battery can be in any seat post. My derailleur wires are just extra long instead of the downtube wire being long. I looked at what was available and the lengths of my bike and a 1600mm wire would have been tight to get from the handlebars to the stokers BB area as well as we have an admittedly cheap suspension post that wouldn't take the battery at all for the stoker.
As it sits, its totally functional and just needs assembly.
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Thanks for the comments.
The eccentric im using is the ProblemSolvers Pressfit for 24 spindle eccentric bottom bracket. It allows the bottom bracket shell to function without needing to have slotting of the BB shell. I will be using a sheet of plastic cut and inserted to keep the wires pressed into the inside circumference of the shell just in case though.
As it sits, its totally functional and just needs assembly.
The eccentric im using is the ProblemSolvers Pressfit for 24 spindle eccentric bottom bracket. It allows the bottom bracket shell to function without needing to have slotting of the BB shell. I will be using a sheet of plastic cut and inserted to keep the wires pressed into the inside circumference of the shell just in case though.
As it sits, its totally functional and just needs assembly.
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Not much to update. spending time with the family...
A tip I found in the chatting on a framebuilding forum was to use a water bottle slice to protect the Di2 wires inside the BB shell (there is no protection from the shaft on the ProblemSolvers PF30 eccentric for 24mm spindles). it works great.
Took my wheels to what I consider the nicer shop in town to have them tuned up... The rear wheel is pretty good but I don't have a truing stand and a shop can do it faster than I will sitting there with the bike upside down.
A tip I found in the chatting on a framebuilding forum was to use a water bottle slice to protect the Di2 wires inside the BB shell (there is no protection from the shaft on the ProblemSolvers PF30 eccentric for 24mm spindles). it works great.
Took my wheels to what I consider the nicer shop in town to have them tuned up... The rear wheel is pretty good but I don't have a truing stand and a shop can do it faster than I will sitting there with the bike upside down.
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Just waiting on an order from chain reaction to finish the bike. The 2-4 day shipping is actually 7 days it seems.
The brakes are bled and VERY firm. More firm than new bikes in the bike shop. I assume it's from the bh90 hose and saint calipers.
Chains and tubeless tape to install and then I can take it for a spin.
I'm using tubeless tape with tubes. I haven't full committed to tires yet. I'm considering the shwalbe pro one but I'm not sure how they would hold up to tandem use.
The brakes are bled and VERY firm. More firm than new bikes in the bike shop. I assume it's from the bh90 hose and saint calipers.
Chains and tubeless tape to install and then I can take it for a spin.
I'm using tubeless tape with tubes. I haven't full committed to tires yet. I'm considering the shwalbe pro one but I'm not sure how they would hold up to tandem use.
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As far as the using the Schwable pro 1 tubeless tire for tandem use, with my experience of over 1 year using the pro one strictly as a tubeless tire it is a high performance tire. You will not be happy with the mileage, if that's what your looking. After looking at the geometry of your frame with the long wheel base, I believe that the Schwable One would not serve you well.
#60
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As far as the using the Schwable pro 1 tubeless tire for tandem use, with my experience of over 1 year using the pro one strictly as a tubeless tire it is a high performance tire. You will not be happy with the mileage, if that's what your looking. After looking at the geometry of your frame with the long wheel base, I believe that the Schwable One would not serve you well.
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As far as the using the Schwable pro 1 tubeless tire for tandem use, with my experience of over 1 year using the pro one strictly as a tubeless tire it is a high performance tire. You will not be happy with the mileage, if that's what your looking. After looking at the geometry of your frame with the long wheel base, I believe that the Schwable One would not serve you well.
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First pair I ever used less than 700 miles, these where defective and warranty with replacements. Typically I'm getting 1200/1500 on a pair. I think if you were to rotate the tires you could extend the life of the tire, but that would be a major pain, so I just run them until I not comfortable with the possibility.
#64
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First pair I ever used less than 700 miles, these where defective and warranty with replacements. Typically I'm getting 1200/1500 on a pair. I think if you were to rotate the tires you could extend the life of the tire, but that would be a major pain, so I just run them until I not comfortable with the possibility.
What air pressure are you running in your rear tire. We are a 310 pound team.
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Probably should open a new Tire Pressure Thread, but anyway we are using 700/25 pro one tubeless with tire pressures 93 rear 90 up front, using a set of Hed Belgium tubeless rims & a set of Enve SES 5..6 Disc using same tire pressure. Team weight 285, first usage of tubeless tires I was running 85# front/rear, not enough pressure just chewed the sidewalks up.
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I couldn't make up my mind so I tossed the 25mm tires we used last year on. They still have a lot of life left but they aren't high quality tires. Oh well.
Bike is complete. I took it up and down the street while the baby was sleeping and 'mom' was working, the feel is much much nicer when compared to the last one I made. I am willing to bet its mostly the fork... both in stiffness and in offset. One of the next nice days we are all off we will take it out on its maiden voyage, with the Thule in tow.
It may be because I'm using the roadlink and a big 11-40t... but if you cross chain in the big ring it drops off to the 39t cassette.
Generally not a big deal, but if someone who doesn't know best practice takes the bike out it might surprise them. An upgrade to the new battery and full syncro shift would probably be a good idea to make it the most user friendly.
Bike is complete. I took it up and down the street while the baby was sleeping and 'mom' was working, the feel is much much nicer when compared to the last one I made. I am willing to bet its mostly the fork... both in stiffness and in offset. One of the next nice days we are all off we will take it out on its maiden voyage, with the Thule in tow.
It may be because I'm using the roadlink and a big 11-40t... but if you cross chain in the big ring it drops off to the 39t cassette.
Generally not a big deal, but if someone who doesn't know best practice takes the bike out it might surprise them. An upgrade to the new battery and full syncro shift would probably be a good idea to make it the most user friendly.
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Nicely done! Great looking bike.
I wonder if with the current firmware and without an upgrade to the new battery you can lockout the extreme cross-chain gear combinations.
I wonder if with the current firmware and without an upgrade to the new battery you can lockout the extreme cross-chain gear combinations.
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I was wondering that once upon a time too.
With a little time after posting that I inspected the system and noticed that the teeth on the used crankset were worn. I swapped them with an ultegra set I had in 130bcd and it works fine now.
With a little time after posting that I inspected the system and noticed that the teeth on the used crankset were worn. I swapped them with an ultegra set I had in 130bcd and it works fine now.
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Hey Shlammed,
you have built a very nice tandem!
I see you are living in Ontario, as well. Where do you source your tandem specific parts from (stoker stem, Captain BB, long cables, etc,)?
Thanks
you have built a very nice tandem!
I see you are living in Ontario, as well. Where do you source your tandem specific parts from (stoker stem, Captain BB, long cables, etc,)?
Thanks
#70
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I bought the stoker stem off of Amazon
Captain BB I bought from the local bike shop. it is a ProblemSolver Pressfit eccentric. A very nice part.
Cables I bought from my local bike shop.
Captain BB I bought from the local bike shop. it is a ProblemSolver Pressfit eccentric. A very nice part.
Cables I bought from my local bike shop.
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thanks!
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Out of curiosity, what was the reason for using the BB30 bottom bracket shell instead of a traditional 54mm shell?
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Very nice!
Looks like you're using the Shimano Saint caliper in the rear. What are you using for the front caliper?
Please post a photo of the hydraulic hose routing to the rear caliper.
Looks like you're using the Shimano Saint caliper in the rear. What are you using for the front caliper?
Please post a photo of the hydraulic hose routing to the rear caliper.
#75
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You can see the routing in the pictures pretty conventional along the top tube then down the seat stay not internal
Nicely done bike!!!
Nicely done bike!!!