rear tandem wheel question
#1
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rear tandem wheel question
I over shifted the rear derailluer today and it snapped the d/r in half along with bending about 4 spokes, when i took the rear wheel off i noticed the axle was bent as well,as well as the buckled wheel.
so would it be easier just to get a new/second hand wheel.
the wheel that is on is a 36 spoke and doesnt look anything special for a tandem and my stoker is only 6 , so no real weight problem.
Its the mountain bike style tandem.
Thanks in advance.
so would it be easier just to get a new/second hand wheel.
the wheel that is on is a 36 spoke and doesnt look anything special for a tandem and my stoker is only 6 , so no real weight problem.
Its the mountain bike style tandem.
Thanks in advance.
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Depending on the quality of the wheel and what a new rim/axle/spokes would cost + labor.
If you can get find a reasonably priced full rear wheel (used or new) that could be fastest way to go.
If you can get find a reasonably priced full rear wheel (used or new) that could be fastest way to go.
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And either read up on RD adjustment (Sheldon Brown or Park Tools) or take the setup to your LBS for proper adjustment. You should not be able to "over shift" the RD if properly set up.
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Probably be faster and cheaper to buy a new wheel than to repair the old one. Either way you need to know the distance (in millimeters) between the rear dropouts. The over locknut dimension of your new wheel needs to match.
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just been out and stripped the rear end, chain badly bent, spokes really bent,
the dimension for the rear drop outs are 135 mm,
the dimension for the rear drop outs are 135 mm,
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Bent axle says "freewheel" to me. Since you're replacing the wheel anyway, I'd step up to a freehub/cassette rear wheel. It'll greatly reduce the potential for bent axles.
Badly bent chain means new chain. Keep the old one to help you resize the replacement. Length matters.
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Does anyone recommend a decent derailleur for a tandem or should i just replace like for like.
Regards
Martin
Regards
Martin
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Three factors to consider:
1. How the derailleur attaches. Most bike frames have a arm (derailleur hanger) that extends downward from the frame. Some use a "claw" that attaches the derailleur to the rear axle.
2. Largest cog capacity. Some derailleurs are only rated to work with a 27 tooth biggest rear cog. Most tandems need one that will handle a 34. Specs for rear derailleurs are provided by the manufacturers.
3. Chain slack capacity. Subtract your smallest front chainring from the biggest. Subtract your smallest rear cog from the biggest. Add those two numbers together. Your derailleur needs to be able to wrap up that much chain slack.
#10
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If price is an issue for your new derailleur I'd suggest buying a good quality rear derailleur (e.g., XT, XTR) used off Ebay or wherever over buying a cheaper new derailleur. Make sure you get one with a long cage, as Retro Grouch suggested ("SGS" cage in Shimano-speak).
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