Quill extenders?
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,825
Likes: 0
Quill extenders?
My tourist (due to the short head tube) only allows the stem to come up 1.5inches which is 0.5 to 1 inches too short for me for really long rides.
I could buy a new quill stem but then I saw really well reviewed quill extenders like this https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Cromo...quill+extender
So essentially there are now two interleaved tubes to control your bike. Any thought on this in general and how this will hold up if I have 20 pounds on the front panniers?
I could buy a new quill stem but then I saw really well reviewed quill extenders like this https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Cromo...quill+extender
So essentially there are now two interleaved tubes to control your bike. Any thought on this in general and how this will hold up if I have 20 pounds on the front panniers?
#2
Banned
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
Likes: 1,380
From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
there is not that small an increase.. Lower ID shoulders against top of fork steerer..
Then the quill stem goes inside, so whole length of the quill is effectively above the top of the fork steerer.
load in the panniers , not on the handlebars, right?
this isnt a threadless headset fork, right?
'/,
Then the quill stem goes inside, so whole length of the quill is effectively above the top of the fork steerer.
load in the panniers , not on the handlebars, right?
this isnt a threadless headset fork, right?
'/,
#3
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,815
Likes: 434
From: Thailand..........currently Nakhon Ricefield, moving to the beach soon.
Bikes: inferior steel....alas....noodly aluminium assploded
i've got a similar quill extenders on my bike now.
(not enough fork tube exposed to bolt stem onto)
extender is locked into the fork tube, and have a riser
bolted onto that.
https://www.amazon.com/OUTERDO-Bicyc...dp/B013JY38NE/
thousands of km's, some with front bags. it's solid.
not sure if this is the same.....seems like this one goes
into the fork tube, then the old quill is inserted into the
extender. not for converting quill to ahead stem whatsit.
check the comments on the amazon page.
this one gives you MINIMUM 4" rise.
can also get adjustable quill extenders....in 22.2 or 25.4
https://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Adjust...dp/B016QRR7EC/
(not enough fork tube exposed to bolt stem onto)
extender is locked into the fork tube, and have a riser
bolted onto that.
https://www.amazon.com/OUTERDO-Bicyc...dp/B013JY38NE/
thousands of km's, some with front bags. it's solid.
not sure if this is the same.....seems like this one goes
into the fork tube, then the old quill is inserted into the
extender. not for converting quill to ahead stem whatsit.
check the comments on the amazon page.
this one gives you MINIMUM 4" rise.
can also get adjustable quill extenders....in 22.2 or 25.4
https://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Adjust...dp/B016QRR7EC/
Last edited by saddlesores; 10-08-16 at 09:39 AM.
#4
Full Member

Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 266
Likes: 6
From: Western MI
Bikes: 2015 Windsor Oxford; 2012 Trek T900; 2008 Iron Horse Commuter; 1999 Specialized Stumpjumper M2 Pro; 1999 Kona Lava Dome; 1992 Trek 520 Tour; 1980 Fuji Grand Tour SE; 1973 Raleigh LTD-3; 1956 Robin Hood; 198x Worksman Industrial Trike
My tourist (due to the short head tube) only allows the stem to come up 1.5inches which is 0.5 to 1 inches too short for me for really long rides.
I could buy a new quill stem but then I saw really well reviewed quill extenders like this https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Cromo...quill+extender
So essentially there are now two interleaved tubes to control your bike. Any thought on this in general and how this will hold up if I have 20 pounds on the front panniers?
I could buy a new quill stem but then I saw really well reviewed quill extenders like this https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Cromo...quill+extender
So essentially there are now two interleaved tubes to control your bike. Any thought on this in general and how this will hold up if I have 20 pounds on the front panniers?
Alternatively, you can replace your current stem with this long one. It is steel so it is heavy but it might be lighter than the extender + original stem combo.
https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Steel...A35FQRW7WZKKW0
#6
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 261
From: NH
I suspect the 8.25" rise stated on Amazon is in error. That would be too extreme. Harris Cyclery website says it has 140mm (5.5") rise from minimum insertion line. Total length is 210mm (8.26").
Sunlite Stem Raiser For Traditional 1 Inch (22.2mm Quill) Stems - Harris Cyclery bicycle shop - West Newton, Massachusetts
Pictured is my Dimension riser providing up to 4" rise above headset. It works fine and I think looks cleaner than the stack of spacers used with a threadless headset...
Sunlite Stem Raiser For Traditional 1 Inch (22.2mm Quill) Stems - Harris Cyclery bicycle shop - West Newton, Massachusetts
Pictured is my Dimension riser providing up to 4" rise above headset. It works fine and I think looks cleaner than the stack of spacers used with a threadless headset...
#7
Sunshine
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 18,709
Likes: 10,247
From: Des Moines, IA
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
I dont have the threadless adapter you linked as its steel. I have 2 aluminum ones though. 1 by Dimension and 1 by VeloOrange. Both are fantastic.
Both arent noticably flexy or anything. Its basically just a metal rod that goes into your steering tube, nothing groundbreaking or complex.
The only concerns are weight and finish quality.
You would need a threadless stem to use the threadless adapter. That is convenient because you can then get a stem with a rise and length which best fits you.
Both arent noticably flexy or anything. Its basically just a metal rod that goes into your steering tube, nothing groundbreaking or complex.
The only concerns are weight and finish quality.
You would need a threadless stem to use the threadless adapter. That is convenient because you can then get a stem with a rise and length which best fits you.
#8
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 261
From: NH
edit: The tightening bolt on my Dimension riser/adapter extends to the top of the riser and is tightened with a normal length allen wrench.
https://www.jensonusa.com/Dimension-Quill-Stem-Adaptor
Last edited by BobG; 10-08-16 at 10:12 AM.
#9
Full Member

Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 266
Likes: 6
From: Western MI
Bikes: 2015 Windsor Oxford; 2012 Trek T900; 2008 Iron Horse Commuter; 1999 Specialized Stumpjumper M2 Pro; 1999 Kona Lava Dome; 1992 Trek 520 Tour; 1980 Fuji Grand Tour SE; 1973 Raleigh LTD-3; 1956 Robin Hood; 198x Worksman Industrial Trike
A "quill extenders" as mentioned in OP has the tightening bolt way below the top of the extender. Usually it is slight above the step between the 22.2 mm to 25.4 mm. Otherwise, the normal quill stem would not be able to go into the extender.
Yes, a threaded (quill) to threadless adaptor has the tightening bolt on the top. Then you would have to buy a threadless stem, usually doubling the cost of the entire modification. I have the longest available on the market (Soma) on a small frame Trek 520 Tour and it is still a very rigid setup.
The simplest is, as mentioned, to replace with a longer quill stem. If steel is too heavy, then the long Nitto is good, but at more than twice the cost. There is another in between (length wise) option. It is a Kalin and 220 mm long, not quite the 250 mm, and is lighter than the 250 mm steel one.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Extra-Tall-B...MAAOSwGotWsRAT
Yes, a threaded (quill) to threadless adaptor has the tightening bolt on the top. Then you would have to buy a threadless stem, usually doubling the cost of the entire modification. I have the longest available on the market (Soma) on a small frame Trek 520 Tour and it is still a very rigid setup.
The simplest is, as mentioned, to replace with a longer quill stem. If steel is too heavy, then the long Nitto is good, but at more than twice the cost. There is another in between (length wise) option. It is a Kalin and 220 mm long, not quite the 250 mm, and is lighter than the 250 mm steel one.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Extra-Tall-B...MAAOSwGotWsRAT
Last edited by loubapache; 10-08-16 at 10:38 AM.
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
For my threaded stem mtb conversions, I use these for 1" quill stems with a 35 degree long stem.
https://www.jensonusa.com/!!oQb3lEPZiS2aA1ZXl11Ng!/Dimension-Quill-Stem-Adaptor?utm_source=FRGL&utm_medium=organic&pt_source=googleads&pt_medium=cpc&pt_campaign=shopping_us &pt_keyword=&gclid=CP_jvJfcy88CFQ6OaQodyHYFKQ
For 1-1/8" quills, no good quill stem adapter exists with a rise over 1". I use these instead.
https://www.bikewagon.com/part/stems/quill-stems/sunlite-stem-quill-alloy-2bolt-180x25-4x80bk
https://www.jensonusa.com/!!oQb3lEPZiS2aA1ZXl11Ng!/Dimension-Quill-Stem-Adaptor?utm_source=FRGL&utm_medium=organic&pt_source=googleads&pt_medium=cpc&pt_campaign=shopping_us &pt_keyword=&gclid=CP_jvJfcy88CFQ6OaQodyHYFKQ
For 1-1/8" quills, no good quill stem adapter exists with a rise over 1". I use these instead.
https://www.bikewagon.com/part/stems/quill-stems/sunlite-stem-quill-alloy-2bolt-180x25-4x80bk
#11
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 261
From: NH
https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...45_-1___204726
The Sunlite riser that you link to may also go higher than you want. Depends on how long your "short" head tube is to use up unneeded rise. Looking at it's dimensions on the Harris Cyclery link I'm guessing that it provides a minimum of about 4" of rise before adding your existing stem to the top.
Last edited by BobG; 10-09-16 at 06:53 AM.
#12
Banned
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
Likes: 1,380
From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
I have used the Part the OP listed as a Quill to threadless adapter , combining it and the stem shim,
To go from 7/8: bottom , 1" top, and the shim to 1.125" OD, then the quill riser being hollow Put a cork in the top.
The tube is chromoly steel rolled down at the bottom, where it's OD is the ID on top.
To go from 7/8: bottom , 1" top, and the shim to 1.125" OD, then the quill riser being hollow Put a cork in the top.
The tube is chromoly steel rolled down at the bottom, where it's OD is the ID on top.
#13
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,825
Likes: 0
Thanks Everyone. Found another solution
Nashbar ATB Comfort Quill Stem
This has a 40 degree angle so the 110mm stem raises the bar 7cm and does not change the reach over the existing 90mm 0 degree stem.
This has a 40 degree angle so the 110mm stem raises the bar 7cm and does not change the reach over the existing 90mm 0 degree stem.
#14
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
I have used this one also. Works as well as the sun lite one I suggested but does not look as polished. It looks a little chunky but got me the height I needed to raise my handlebars on an old GT conversion I did a few years ago.
#15
Bikes are okay, I guess.



Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 8,007
Likes: 3,779
From: Richmond, Virginia
Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT, Jeunet mixte
I used a Nashbar quill adapter with a threadless hybrid stem that I already had. Gives me the perfect height on the RB-T. I can get an additional couple of inches with a quill extender but that gets kind of clunky-looking.
#17
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,825
Likes: 0
#19
I would recommend an adjustable stem where you can change the angle. I bought one 5 years ago with the intent of using it to figure out my best ride position and reach. I figured once I got it dialed in I would buy a new quill stem to those dimensions. Mine even has degree markings on the side and is easy to set and very secure. What I found is spring to fall when I’m riding a lot I start to want to lower and extend my reach. I have also found mid ride on a long ride I sometimes want to sit a bit more upright and it only takes a few minutes to set and then turn the bars down to level again. The weight penalty on a touring bike for me wasn’t a big deal given the convenience.
The thing about setting more upright is your arms stay the same length so the arc change brings the hoods right back with you. The stem angle also brings the bars back. So you can find a combination of the two to be perfect.
You might have to change your cables to be longer also.
The thing about setting more upright is your arms stay the same length so the arc change brings the hoods right back with you. The stem angle also brings the bars back. So you can find a combination of the two to be perfect.
You might have to change your cables to be longer also.
#20
Senior Member



Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 12,748
Likes: 2,108
From: Madison, WI
Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.
In the photo I am using a Quill to Threadless converter but I am not sure if that is the correct name or not. The frame is from 1961 or 62, used to use a quill stem. But I put this adapter in so that I could put a threadless stem on it. Works fine.
I made the change because I wanted to be able change the reach while I was dialing in the fit, a threadless stem with removable face plate allows me to change stems in minutes to change reach. The regular quill type stems did not offer that ability to make a quick change.
I made the change because I wanted to be able change the reach while I was dialing in the fit, a threadless stem with removable face plate allows me to change stems in minutes to change reach. The regular quill type stems did not offer that ability to make a quick change.







