Flat bar cross check for touring
#1
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Joined: Feb 2015
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From: Japan
Flat bar cross check for touring
Our planned purchase of a second hand CC for my wife fell through due to some weird gear shifting problem. New one is too expensive, so I am looking at the flat bar version. In Japan even that is US $1,400!
First she would prefer flat bars as thats what she rides now. Second, one chain ring (?) up front is better because she never shifts to the harder one any way.
So I am wondering if there would be any problem changing the chain ring from stock 42t to 34t which would match what she has now.
Also, I wonder how it rides with flat bars.
First she would prefer flat bars as thats what she rides now. Second, one chain ring (?) up front is better because she never shifts to the harder one any way.
So I am wondering if there would be any problem changing the chain ring from stock 42t to 34t which would match what she has now.
Also, I wonder how it rides with flat bars.
#3
Sunshine
Joined: Aug 2014
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From: Des Moines, IA
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
New one is too expensive, so I am looking at the flat bar version. In Japan even that is US $1,400!
First she would prefer flat bars as thats what she rides now. Second, one chain ring (?) up front is better because she never shifts to the harder one any way.
So I am wondering if there would be any problem changing the chain ring from stock 42t to 34t which would match what she has now.
First she would prefer flat bars as thats what she rides now. Second, one chain ring (?) up front is better because she never shifts to the harder one any way.
So I am wondering if there would be any problem changing the chain ring from stock 42t to 34t which would match what she has now.
Based on the link above, it looks like that crank can handle a smaller ring. The Charge has a 32t on that crank. Its a SRAM Truvativ E400 crank. The easiest way to determine chainring size is to know the BCD(bolt circle diameter) of the crank. I think the E400 is a 104/64 bcd(i didnt exactly look much). If that BCD is accurate, then you could slap a smaller ring without issue. Just lower the front derailleur too so it matches the new ring height.
#4
Just looked it up on Surly's website. I like the simplicity of a 1x9 drivetrain. I'm hoping to build something similar myself for a commuter in the future.
As far as I know, the only think you need to worry about is making sure the BCD on the new chainring matches the BCD on the crankset as already mentioned, and then you might need to take a few links out of the chain, which you can easily to yourself. I think that should be it.
As far as I know, the only think you need to worry about is making sure the BCD on the new chainring matches the BCD on the crankset as already mentioned, and then you might need to take a few links out of the chain, which you can easily to yourself. I think that should be it.
#5
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From: Wisconsin
Bikes: 2012 Salsa Casseroll, 2009 Kona Blast
Our planned purchase of a second hand CC for my wife fell through due to some weird gear shifting problem. New one is too expensive, so I am looking at the flat bar version. In Japan even that is US $1,400!
First she would prefer flat bars as thats what she rides now. Second, one chain ring (?) up front is better because she never shifts to the harder one any way.
So I am wondering if there would be any problem changing the chain ring from stock 42t to 34t which would match what she has now.
Also, I wonder how it rides with flat bars.
First she would prefer flat bars as thats what she rides now. Second, one chain ring (?) up front is better because she never shifts to the harder one any way.
So I am wondering if there would be any problem changing the chain ring from stock 42t to 34t which would match what she has now.
Also, I wonder how it rides with flat bars.
I would suggest if you go with flat bars, you go with one with a bend like the Postino or Velo Orange Porteur, (or many others) as they put the wrists in a natural position.
#7
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From: Metro Detroit/AA
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#8
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Shifting issues could be bigger than just a new shifter and cable. Could be derailleur, could be chain/cassette/chainrings, could be frame/hanger alignment, etc etc etc. All fixable, but depending on your skill level etc may not be worth it.
I've replied to you on ****** on the same idea. The CC makes a nice light-tour / super versatile bike. Flat bar on is nice but multiple hand positions (bar ends etc) are nice too.
I've replied to you on ****** on the same idea. The CC makes a nice light-tour / super versatile bike. Flat bar on is nice but multiple hand positions (bar ends etc) are nice too.
#9
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Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Above ground, Walnut Creek, Ca
Bikes: 8 ss bikes, 1 5-speed touring bike
it's a little unclear to me exactly what you are intending to buy and/or alter.
is it a flat bar bike with two chainrings or a flat bar bike with a single chainring? and i take it that whatever you buy you will want a 34t chainring?
anyway...
if the crank can accommodate a 34t chainring, it could be as simple as buying a compatible 34t chainring and installing it.
OTOH, if the crank can't accommodate a 34t chainring you may have to buy a new, compatible, if available (and here's where some research on your part comes in ) with your BB, crank that can, and a 34t chainring that is compatible with the new crank and install them both.
i don't see any reason why shifting would be an issue in either case, assuming the bike comes with a flat handlebar.
is it a flat bar bike with two chainrings or a flat bar bike with a single chainring? and i take it that whatever you buy you will want a 34t chainring?
anyway...
if the crank can accommodate a 34t chainring, it could be as simple as buying a compatible 34t chainring and installing it.
OTOH, if the crank can't accommodate a 34t chainring you may have to buy a new, compatible, if available (and here's where some research on your part comes in ) with your BB, crank that can, and a 34t chainring that is compatible with the new crank and install them both.
i don't see any reason why shifting would be an issue in either case, assuming the bike comes with a flat handlebar.
Last edited by hueyhoolihan; 05-23-17 at 12:13 PM.
#11
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Joined: Feb 2015
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From: Japan
Shifting issues could be bigger than just a new shifter and cable. Could be derailleur, could be chain/cassette/chainrings, could be frame/hanger alignment, etc etc etc. All fixable, but depending on your skill level etc may not be worth it.
I've replied to you on ****** on the same idea. The CC makes a nice light-tour / super versatile bike. Flat bar on is nice but multiple hand positions (bar ends etc) are nice too.
I've replied to you on ****** on the same idea. The CC makes a nice light-tour / super versatile bike. Flat bar on is nice but multiple hand positions (bar ends etc) are nice too.
Thanks for all the comments from everyone. This is exactly what the shop said. They do not know why the gear changing is rough and noisy. Now they say it is the bar end shifters! But they are not offering to change them. It means they still are not sure and they will just sell it to some one else as is. It's a friendly shop but WTF????
I don't know anything about bikes despite being a biker for 40 years! I don't like even changing break pads! So I am too scared just to buy the bike and take it to my normal shop for them to fix because a 1000 dollar mystery with unknown additional charges too much of a gamble for me. It's irrational, but there you have it.
#12
2-Wheeled Fool
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#13
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