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Advice needed: 1985 Apollo touring bike modernization

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Advice needed: 1985 Apollo touring bike modernization

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Old 09-22-17, 08:48 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by checoles
Because that bike is vintage porn. I love a pristine vintage bike. Offt is the noise you make when you see it
I get it now, HA!
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Old 09-22-17, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by 52telecaster
i have run large panniers on front at times. it can get a little weird until your used to it. just go easy and make sure they dont sway. swaying in front is way worse than in back. as for trekking bars, i think they are a great solution. like you i dont use drop bars for touring anymore.......
Good looking set up!
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Old 09-22-17, 09:00 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN
I assume you do not plan to put much weight on a rear rack and not have a front rack since you appear to have used trailers in the past for most of the load. Based on this, the bike should work well.
I run front & rear panniers whenever possible and try and keep the weight down. Only resorting to a trailer when the weight creeps up there. With the kids behind us for at least the next few years panniers are the only option.

Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN
I use a Tubus Logo for most of my touring but I recently bought a RackTime AddIt rack and used that for one tour. I really like both racks, but the Logo is the stronger one. They both are quite stiff. Both have lower mounting points that allow you to get the panniers a bit lower.
I'll look into that as those racks sound good. I am possibly planning on trying my larger, typically rear panniers on my front low mount racks and my smaller front panniers on the back. I'll see how that goes?


Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN
You should set your panniers so that you have just enough heel clearance. If you have more heel clearance than you really need, that will add to frame flex if you have much weight in your rear panniers.
Size 11's make that a little tough.

Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN
If you plan to put much weight on the bike, consider upgrading your rear wheel to a cassette type hub instead of freewheel, the axle would be much stronger. I assume this is a 126mm rear dropout spacing, you could probably put a 130mm rear hub in the frame without any problem.

The bike looks old enough that I suggest you re-grease both hubs and the bottom bracket if you have not done so yet.
Ya, my thoughts were to run the rear wheel set up as it is for a shorter trip and see how it holds up but I have thought about doing exactly the upgrade you mention.

Full re-grease in the winter plans. Snow will be here in just over a month! Ughhhh!
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Old 09-22-17, 09:22 AM
  #29  
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Sidepulls are not the best brakes for stopping a heavy load, but your frame is limiting your choices because it lacks canti brake mounts. Koolstop Salmon pads might help???


Originally Posted by BigFinner
I run front & rear panniers whenever possible and try and keep the weight down. Only resorting to a trailer when the weight creeps up there. With the kids behind us for at least the next few years panniers are the only option.

...
If you do that with your panniers (minimal weight in back), that would probably help avoid too much frame flex.

With that front fork, I have no clue how you would mount front panniers. I do not see any mid-fork mounting points for a rack.

Originally Posted by BigFinner
...
Size 11's make that a little tough.
...
No, I wear 10.5 or 11. My point was not so much your shoe size but was meant to place your rear panniers as far forward as practical regardless of shoe size. Some people push the panniers farther back than they need not realizing the impact on their handling.

I do not know what your chainstay length is, but they look pretty short for touring, which means you already will be putting a lot of your rear pannier load behind the rear axle.
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Old 09-22-17, 09:44 AM
  #30  
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I've got kool stops I am going to be putting on, thanks.

For mounting racks there are lots of fork bracket adapters on the market for this.

The chainstay is actually quite long. Just a 1/4 inch shorter than my trek. It likely just appears shorter as the bike is so large that the steep angle of the rear triangle makes it look short.
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Old 09-22-17, 06:45 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by BigFinner
Thanks that's helpful. BTW what model kuwahara did you have?




We have toured a good portion of SE Asia before kids. We are likely going to cycle Malaysia with the kids this winter. Hence I want very quick access to being able to hit my brakes no matter where my hands are on the bars. (On a side note I really like the look of the original levers as well.)

From my experience cycling SE Asia the rules of the road are that the largest vehicle has right of way and scooters are allowed to travel wherever they wish including sidewalks. Pretty sure that sums up the driving exam answers you need to know to get your license there. Ha!
its a Kuwahara Caravan 1991, quadruple butted tubing. Probably one of the nicer tubeset they did, but it is smallish tubing and yes, the flex comes more in the bb area when you crank on it, but then again, it has a really nice ride over rough stuff overall. In any case, the vast majority of time touring we are seated, so it never really was an issue. I just noticed the difference with newer framesets, in alu and in steel. As the other fellow mentioned, its just part of how this era of frames was.

re Asia, never been, but having toured in Latin America, I'm not sure I'd want to take my kids into that sort of car environment, although Im sure the road choices are the big factor.

if you ever looked into a diff fork, you'd have to make sure all the tech numbers worked so that the handling wouldnt go all wonky. But as you say, good adapters are out there for clamping racks onto the mid point of forks, tubus one appears to be the best, about 20 bucks I think.

re trekking setup, figure 20-25 bucks for the bars, 7 or 8 speed trigger shifters couild be had new or used at a reasonable price, add a quill stem that works for those bars (could easily find used ones, used bike stores will have a box full of them, lets say 15 bucks tops).

so you could do a trekking bar setup test and see how you like it.

what chainring teeth are those up front?
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