During the week I picked up a 1990 Trek 520, in my size, which was hybridized. I'm glad to report that it still has the original Deore DX drive train, but a previous owner installed:

- Flat handlebars
- Shimano EF51 Shifters.
- Origin 8 V-Brakes
- Very Short Stem
- 700x25 Tires

I am not sure I will use it much over my Salsa Vaya, but I have decided to convert it back to drop bars since I have room in the budget should I decide to sell.. I am looking for the original Deore DX cantilever brakes and will likely go with bar end shifters due to cost/simplicity. The bar tape and tires (700x35) will be hand me downs, but I am looking for suggestions on drop bars and brake levers. Right now, my top choice for the bars are the Soma Brevet Ergo (clamp size 25.4). I don't know if I will ever really tour, but I do plan to go on 50-100 mile rides.

Anyone have any suggests for comfortable bars and brake levers?

This is how the bike looked when purchased. I have added an adjustable stem since I don't have a tiny torso. The adjustable stem will be replaced once I get everything else sorted.

That is a neat bike you have, looks like half step gearing.

Not sure if you are trying for a period restoration or for a bike that you want to ride with more modern components.

As an example, in the photo I have a 1961 or 62 bike that the handlebars did not work for me, they were really narrow and I did not like the shape. I put on a threadless to quill adapter, threadless stem, modern bars, modern brake levers and I like to also have interrupter brake levers too. Many parts are still original like the campy downtube friction shifters and Mafac centerpull brakes.

I am not saying you need to go modern if you do not want to, but you are starting from scratch so you could be as creative as you want to be. I did not discard the old parts, I could restore it if I wanted to later.

On one bike I have 25.4 bars with a 26.0 stem, I found that three layers of aluminum from a beer can was the perfect shim. But I do not know if different cans had identical thickness or not, I used a caliper to measure thickness. It is best to not try 25.4 bars on a 26 stem with no shim.

I do not care about originality as it is not a rare bike. I just want to make it a nice rider. I though about adding a threadless adapter, but it does add a layer of complexity to the bike. It really comes down to the bars I decide on. My current stem is 25.4 so the Soma Brevet Ergo bars would work, just not sure these are the right bars for the bike.

I thought I was set on bar end shifters, but I am thinking the Microshift STI shifters again since there are a lot of hills where I am.

How do you like those SCR-5 levers? I was looking at a pair on eBay earlier today.

I have Nitto Noodle/bar-end/SCR-5 levers. Levers work fine & incl quick release button. Personal I guess but I prefer round bend vs ergo style. Noodle unfortunately not available in 25.4mm but there must be similar available. I like the bar-ends OK but would switch to brifters if available for 3X9 MTB gears.

Nitto randonneur is available in 25.4 and it's a fine handlebar especially for a touring bike.

The Nitto Randonneur looks nice. The Soma Brevet is also available in round, I don't have any experience with ergo drops which is why I was thinking of trying them.

I like the flare of the Nitto Randonneur, that is my top choice now. Any recommendations on width? I'm thinking the 42cm or 44cm.

Thanks, I am thinking STI may be the best option for my plans. It may be awhile till I find the DX brakes for a price I am good with, so I have time to change my mind a few times. If I find bar ends for cheap, it would be with the SCR-5 I think.

My options for 3x7 STI is Microshift, MicroNew (clone I think) and Shimano Tourney. I'd go with the Microshift in hopes for the best quality.

I have those Cane Creek brake levers on three bikes, on a couple other bikes I have the older shaped Tektro that was nearly identical to the Cane Creek levers.

Newer Tectro brake levers changed the shape of the lever, I only have the older ones.

The only difference I saw between the Cane Creek and the older Tektros is the rubber hoods on the Cane Creeks have lots of tiny little lizards in the pattern.

In this photo I have a Campy brifter on the right side of the bike (left in photo), the older style Tektro lever on the other side. The older style Tektros and the Cane Creek levers are so close to the same shape and look of the Campy brifter that in a quick glance you don't realize that they are different manufacturers.

One more quick note - you said you plan to go back to canti brakes but it currently has V brakes in the photo. The Cane Creek and Tektro levers in my photos are the correct ones for canti brakes.

But there are similar Tektro brake levers that have the correct cable pull for V brakes, so if you decide to keep the V brakes you would want those other brake levers to get the correct cable pull.

I just looked up micronew...what on earth.
I have a set of 2x7 microshift and love em. The dedicated shift paddles in addition to the brake lever is easy to get used to and i like it a lot.

The way the V-Brakes are in installed don't give me a lot of confidence (I know the noodle is out in the photo). I also think it will affect tire clearance...at least with the tire is inflated. It is good to know that I have the option to stay with V-Brakes though.

I thought about going with the Tektro CR720 canti, but think I'll be happier with the DX canti's it originally came with. I have other bicycles to ride so I there is not a rush to get this run working.

These are the levers that work with V brakes.
Tektro RL520 Drop Bar Brake Levers | Chain Reaction Cycles

In my search I found that Cane Creek makes a similar set of levers.

Those V brakes are pretty ugly with corrosion. If you decide to stick with V brakes, but choose to replace those, figure out if you want fenders on the bike first to make sure you get enough clearance when you do your brake shopping. You do not want to buy brakes and then find that the brake and fender do not play well with each other.

Put a butterfly bar on my Trek. I would post a pic but this forum won't let me. I was able to reuse everything which is why I didn't go the drop bar route.

I do not know why you could not post one, but I find if I reduce my photos to about 20 percent of original size that I can post them where original size the system chokes on too big a photo.

My take on ergo bars: a lot of racers use 'em, I guess they help when leaned forward & pedalling hard. But I found (don't remember the model) the ergo part was a little too vertical; also it cuts the drop into two sections--the flat part is rather short. With the round bend I can vary the grasp a bit more.

Also, racers use brifters so I suppose they like to have hands right underneath--with bar-ends that's not necessarily the case. YMMV of course.

I lurrrrrrv my 1990 520. It's been in several configurations over the last couple years, and done it all very well. It's a real swiss-army bike - even more so because the same frame was used by Trek for their 750 hybrid and their 900 series mountain bike around the same time. Same frame, different brazeons, and different wheel sizes. I don't do any more long distance touring, so the frame is going to get a proper repaint and rebuilt as a monstercross/"adventure" rig. Many thumbs up!

My favorite brakes are the Tektro BX3 mini vs, they give just the right amount of clearance without looking awkward, imo. Works with fenders!

Nice triple but looks like you could've used a bit bigger frame.

Thanks for the reply. I already have a '92 Trek 950 and Salsa Vaya (adventure) so don't know how redundant the 520 will turn out to be in the end. My plans are to build up the 520, compare and maybe get rid of 1.

I have no complaints with the Deore LX cantilever brakes on my 950, so I'd imagine I won't have any issues if I install DX or XT of the same era. I'll keep the Tektro BX3 mini brakes in mind if for some reason I don't like them.

I believe I have the stock cantis from my 520, PM if you'd like me to look for them. They'd be cheap.

Have you (or anyone else) had any trouble with the microshift shifting the front derailleur?

I was getting ready to order when I started thinking that the front may give me trouble. Mine is the front is bottom pull if that matters.

My Microshift work great- the front shifts are a hard and clear 'click'. Tough to describe, but its a different noise than Shimano and SRAM for sure.

I wouldnt think it would give you any different results than Shimano or SRAM in terms of shifting. The shifter pulls cable the same amount as Shimano.

Thanks, I'll likely order them today with eBay's coupon.

Did you add barrel adjusters to yours? If so, are they just the standard size?

I use downtube adjusters

Here is how the bike turned out.

Major Parts Used

• Microshift 3x7 STI Shifters
• Nitto B135AA Randonneur Handlebar (45cm)
• Deore DX M650 Canti Brakes
• 100mm Stem
• Vittoria Voyager Hyper 700x35 Tires

Good

• The shifters work great with both the front and rear Deore DX dérailleurs.
• The Canit brakes work fine and only need new pads.
• The Tires are awesome (1st time using them)
• The stand over was fine and I didn't notice it at the stops. I was worried as the top bar hits my pants. (6'2" with long torso).

Bad

• The handlebars feel narrow. I think I am spoiled by the Cowbell 3 that is on my Vaya.
• The reach feels short. I think I need another 4cm somewhere. My forearms hit the hoods while in the drops and my hands hurt on the hoods after 20min at the current level of the stem, so I don't feel comfortable lowering it anymore. The bar is slightly tilted as it felt better when riding on the hoods. I can try lowering the bars and raising the shifters.

Conclusion

For the handlebar, I think I am going to try to find a 25.4 Salsa Woodchipper (46cm), as I can use this with a drop bar conversion in the future if I don't like it on the 520. I could also convert the bike to a thread-less stem, but have to research to be sure that adapter can be used with a long stem. Finding quill stems longer than 100mm get pricey. Let me know if anyone has any suggestions on a wider handlebar or a way to get more reach. A seat post with some set back may be another option.

The housing and cables are left long as I anticipated cockpit adjustments.

Bens cycle sells Nitto Dynamic II quill stems that are 0degree and 120mm. That will get your bars out a bit further and a but higher when compared with an even stem insert height.
Only costs $27 or so.
Its 26.0mm but you can shim.

...or get a 26.0 drop bar as there are more options.

Nice build!